Computer trouble
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
[quote=subford;8941581]F2TF-ATA L6-300ci 4.9L FI FED W/MT
F1TF-AEA L6-300ci 4.9L FI W/4 & 5-SPD MT
It looks like both are for the same engine and Transmission.
But there was a big change in the trucks from 1991 to 1992 so I am not sure if all the computer pins match or not as I do not have the pin out for the 1991 computer.
Also I do not know if the 1991 Computer was Fed or Calif.
thanks for the info. i didn't think about the pin out being different, but that would do it wouldn't it! is the 90 computer any closer?
D0X1 F0TF-CB, EFI-SD40
F1TF-AEA L6-300ci 4.9L FI W/4 & 5-SPD MT
It looks like both are for the same engine and Transmission.
But there was a big change in the trucks from 1991 to 1992 so I am not sure if all the computer pins match or not as I do not have the pin out for the 1991 computer.
Also I do not know if the 1991 Computer was Fed or Calif.
thanks for the info. i didn't think about the pin out being different, but that would do it wouldn't it! is the 90 computer any closer?
D0X1 F0TF-CB, EFI-SD40
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
F0TF-CB L6-300ci 4.9L FI W/5-SPD MT
I think I would go with it as if there is any difference in the pin-out this one would be closer if not just alike.
As far as the program codes go I do not know of any body that has the listings for the tables in the different codes.
A few have dumped their programs and made some changes in the tables but I do not know of any site still selling the dumpers. They burn the changes back in the EPROM.
There are some plans for the dumpers out there on the net if you would want to build one.
I think I would go with it as if there is any difference in the pin-out this one would be closer if not just alike.
As far as the program codes go I do not know of any body that has the listings for the tables in the different codes.
A few have dumped their programs and made some changes in the tables but I do not know of any site still selling the dumpers. They burn the changes back in the EPROM.
There are some plans for the dumpers out there on the net if you would want to build one.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Thanks guys, i'm after disconnecting the battery for a whole night and didnt make a difference, and now after changing the computer and its still shifting hard in drive and reverse, and it also wont change gears properly, mechanic is lost and has no idea, if anyone has any advice please dont hesitate to let me know, thanks.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like you may have a bad TP or TR sensor or their wires and plugs going to the computer.
If the TP sensor is saying WOT the the pressure will be high on the EPC.
If the Computer does not see anything from the TR sensor then the pressure will be high on the EPC also.
I take it on the rebuild he used the old TR sensor.
If the TP sensor is saying WOT the the pressure will be high on the EPC.
If the Computer does not see anything from the TR sensor then the pressure will be high on the EPC also.
I take it on the rebuild he used the old TR sensor.
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
hard shift
My 95 F250 (5.8W) does this exact same thing, but disconnecting the battery works. It appears that the reset time is getting shorter which makes me have to unhook the battery more often. Is there a solid fix or solution to fix this issue.
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
SRedd4 (Scott),
The only thing disconnecting the battery does is restart the learning process and clear CM codes and set another code.
You need to start a new thread and explain what your exact same thing is.
Also you need to drive it a little to get the codes back in CM that you wiped out and then post them then in your thread and we will be able to help you more.
The only thing disconnecting the battery does is restart the learning process and clear CM codes and set another code.
You need to start a new thread and explain what your exact same thing is.
Also you need to drive it a little to get the codes back in CM that you wiped out and then post them then in your thread and we will be able to help you more.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
So, I'm not told that its either the map senson or the mass airflow sensor, or a broken vaccume line. Another transmission guy said that it was a bad sillanoid pack or broken wiring, but the guy who did mine said that both thoose things are fine, and i'm at a loss, soon giving up on it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
By unhooking the battery you may have lost the information (codes) you needed to fix it.
You said the TR sensor (MLPS) was cracked in a couple of spots, and chipped around where the shift arm connects. I said above the TR sensor could cause this problem. You can check to see what it is telling the computer with an ohm meter. But if it is bad shape you need to replace it anyway.
If you have a broken vacuum line it needs to be fixed so the engine will run right.
I do not have a Mass airflow sensor.
If you drive it some you may have another code set in the computer memory and it should tell you if it was a MAP sensor.
The solenoid pack should be OK if he did something to the wires and the pressure went down.
The wiring is a different story, someone just has to put a BOB on it and start checking wires.
You may want to find someone with a transmission tester to see what the computer is telling the transmission to do. This can be done with a BOB and a volt meter also.
You said the TR sensor (MLPS) was cracked in a couple of spots, and chipped around where the shift arm connects. I said above the TR sensor could cause this problem. You can check to see what it is telling the computer with an ohm meter. But if it is bad shape you need to replace it anyway.
If you have a broken vacuum line it needs to be fixed so the engine will run right.
I do not have a Mass airflow sensor.
If you drive it some you may have another code set in the computer memory and it should tell you if it was a MAP sensor.
The solenoid pack should be OK if he did something to the wires and the pressure went down.
The wiring is a different story, someone just has to put a BOB on it and start checking wires.
You may want to find someone with a transmission tester to see what the computer is telling the transmission to do. This can be done with a BOB and a volt meter also.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
thanks so much, I actually found a place that can check it for me,te wiring and hopefully will get some codes. I have an appointment for monday morning, hopefully i'll know more then, thanks again for the info.
