I was wondering the same thing.

 

Yes you can. Go to Autozone and rent the special tool, and it will come right off. Some of the clutches can be fixed also if they are slipping. Measure the gap on the clutch, it should be .014 to a max of .030 gap. If it's larger than .030, you can get the tool and take the clutch apart, take a shim out, and put it back together to close the gap.

 

Regardless of when it was replaced, if the system was open to the atmosphere the dryer should be replaced.

Does it have to be no, but it may very well freeze up and not cool well.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

It freezes up now, as soon as I turn it on. But I also read this could be due to low freon.

 

Yup, what he said..., of course you need to know what tool you need as most of the peeps at any of the big box stores these days barely know what end of a screwdriver to use, much less actually know how to read a catalog. My issue is that AZ does not have the tool for the FS6 in any of the stores around here. I have FX10/15 series tools, but not FS6. My compressor is knocking a little with age, it needs to be replaced as well, Im just feeling cheap right now and the FS6 is not the cheapest unit...

 

There are a number of factors that could cause it to freeze, pressures need to be check to be sure, but yes, that is one cause, just as over charging can cause it to be warm.

 

Where is the low pressureside?

 

over by the evaporator case and accumulator, passenger side.

 

I converted my '82 F150 years ago and although it worked fine, it always needed more freon. A mechanic told me one day that you need to replace the hoses also as the 134 will leak through the old hoses. So, I had the hoses replaced and haven't had a problem since. Also, the 134 does require different o-rings. The 134 will eventually deteriorate the original o-rings.

 

That is true that a new r12 hose or o-ring will not seal r134a very well, but they have found out a r12 hose or o-ring that has been in service and saturated with r12, will seal against 134a gas. If you replace a hose you do need to get a 134a hose or o-ring, but old r12 hoses are fine unless they do develop a physical leak for some other reason.

 

My system had 25 psi in it and I filled it to 40 psi. This made a huge difference, until my A/C hose started leaking from 3 places. Awesome. I ordered a new hose and plan on taking it somewhere and they can install it and the freon.

 

Yes, and many places offer 134A with "O-ring conditioner" in it, made specifically for use with older r12 systems that have been switched to 134a without the hoses/o-rings changed.

 

Ok I bought a new high pressure hose, orfice tube, and accumilator. I know the low pressure side is on the sccumaltor, but my autozone replacement has to fittings. One coming off the can, the other coming off the side where the low pressure line connects. Which one do use?

 

I know this is a old thread but didn't want to start a new one for a small question. I recently got a great deal on a refurb compressor and was just wanting to buy new hoses to go with the new accumulator, and evaporator to put a end to anymore possible leaks but saw there are In Plant charged systems and pre charged systems and it all boils down to whether or not i have a Manual Shut-Off Valve At Compressor. I've found i do have this valve but was wondering if i need it. All the auto part stores would have to special order the suction hose meant to attach to a system with the valve.

Can i just do away with these valves, what are they used for exactly ? It's just a 90 degree valve and the hoses meant for a non-valve setup have the bends to attach it directly to the compressor. I also noticed the liquid line going from the condenser to the evaporator is only shown for a Manual Shut-Off Valve (pre-charged) setup.

Thanks in advanced peeps!

 

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