I finally got the toyota steering box mounted. My question is, should I had to grind the hole where the pitman shaft comes through forwards a little more than 1/8 of an inch to get the bolt holes to match up? Also how much space needs to be around the shaft? Is there someone out there that has put this on and used their stock column? How short did you cut it and did you use the stock dash mount or did you use a shorter one?

 

Pappy53, when I first put the Toyota box on I used the stock steering column and used the stock column mount also. I just cut it to length to where it was comfortable for me I think I took out about 4" from the original length. I did have to grind a little on the hole when the pitman arm shaft went through the frame; however I have the old style bracket and had to drill all my holes. as long as it's not rubbing the frame it enough room since it shouldn't be moving once bolted down.

 

Yes, you need to grind the pitman shaft hole in the frame some (not concentric with the original hole if you are using the heavy bar stock V shaped mount) to allow the shaft and housing to pass thru the frame. You also need to grind about 1/8" off the box mount so it can sit solidly against the frame. When you bolt the box to the mount it will be obvious where and how much to remove.
If you are going to use the original column you will need to buy or fab a lower bushing to keep the shaft centered in the housing. Mid Fifty sells these or you could machine one out of 1" delrin block if you have access to metal or wood lathe. It does not need to be a ball bearing or even real high precision bushing, there is no significant side pressure and the shaft turns at a very slow speed! You'll need some sort of floor mount for the column housing where it passes thru the floor from a fancy self aligning billet on to a SS hose clamp and 3 angle braces from the hardware store. You'll need to use a pushbutton switch mounted somewhere convenient or buy one of the somewhat pricy horn button conversion kits to use the original horn button. The OEM column drop will work if you are using the stock steering wheel and seat and don't mind the "bus driver" position. You may find the Toy PS a little sensitive with that large wheel. If so, you could try a lower pressure PS pump for a rack and pinion setup or an adjustable pressure valve in the high pressure line.
Use the Toy spline to 2D universal joint and grind 2 flats on the OEM shaft to fit. Dimple the shaft flat with a suitable size drill bit where the set screw contacts it so the shaft cannot slip and locktite red the set screw.

 

I purchased the centering bushing, the floor mount and the billet universal joint when I bought the kit from M50. My truck had a smaller steering wheel on it when I bought it so it already has a push button for the horn. I need to move it from under the dash to the side of the steering column when I get it back in. Not sure about the universal joint they sent me. The end that goes on the end of the column is round and smooth but does not slip on the end of the column. In their catalog is says that this is suppose to be welded on. Did they send me the wrong on or do I need to grind the two flats to allow it to fit on? Is there anything to do to change the bus driver position with the stock steering column. I am going to add another post with pictures since I cannot see how to add them here now. Also I cannot figure out how to add them to my album.

 

The way I improved the position on my truck to my liking was to go to a paintable steel tilt column from Ididit and use a 15" steering wheel. I am also using 6 way adjustable capt chairs from a van conversion. My wife is 5'4", 125#, I am 6'2" 270# so we wanted a lot of adjustability in the driving position. If you are using a smaller wheel than stock and don't want to go to a tilt column then you might want to use a spacer under the column drop at the dash. Hook up everything else and leave the drop loose space it down with various thickness of wooden spacers and a C clamp until you are satisfied with the feel then replace the wood with a steel spacer or buy an appropriate length aftermarket drop for your column diameter. My Mid Fifty conversion came with a Stainless ball bearing U joint, Toy spline to 3/4" DD with two set screws. Borgeson makes the joint, you can get one from MF, Ididit or Borgeson directly. Just grind two flats on the shaft to match the DD configuration. Borgeson also makes a vibration reducing U joint for this application. I wouldn't be too comfortable having to weld a plain steel U joint to the shaft. If you do decide to go that route, be sure you put your ground clamp on the shaft, not on the U joint or below it so the welding current isn't passing thru the bearings. You could easily damage the U joint that way.

 

Can anyone tell me what year toyote power steering gear box I would need to convert my 57 ford trk to power steering , and also any helpful hint I might need to know.

 

Yes, here:
Toyota Steering Box Swap For 1948-1960 Trucks .: Articles

 

thank-you so much for the info, hope to chat again.

 

Feel free to come back anytime, we are a friendly group here.

 

Hey AXracer did you originally use your stock steering column or did you directly go to the Ididit column? If you originally used the stock column, what length did you cut it at? I am thinking between 30 and 31 inches. I decided I wanted to keep the old syle look and I am also on a tight budget right now. I just got back to work after being laid off for over a year and I am not making near what I was making. I will try your suggestion on the column mount.

 

This is what mine looked like with the stock column & toy box; I welded the U-joint to the steering shaft, ran it for over 10 years like that.

 

Pappy,
I went directly to the Ididit column. My truck had the stock box column and wheel with the add on power assist cylinder setup on it when we bought it. My wife and I drove it that way from NM to NC. After the first 1/2 day we decided that system had to go! It got yanked out within a few days of arriving home.
I'd suggest you dummy the Toy box to the mount and bolt it into place in the frame without the U joint. cut the old shaft at the box (Don't throw the box away, Mid Fifty will buy it from you) and add the centering spacer. put the column in place and see how you like the driving position. If satisfied hold the U joint in place and mark the shaft for length. I can't give you an exact length figure, so many variables: driver(s) stature, seat, seating position, steering wheel diameter/dish depth/adapter length, what you find comfortable. Start with the shaft/column as long as possible, sit in it for an hour or two making vroom vroom noises (seriously spend significant time moving the wheel and stepping on the pedals, reaching for dash controls, shifter, etc, don't forget to allow for seatbelt and harness use) by that time your body should tell you what needs adjusting and how much. Cut a bit off of the shaft if you decide it needs shortening and try it again until you are a happy Pappy! This is basically what we did to find that the Ididit column was too long for our comfort and shortened it, only we each adjusted the seat and the column tilt to our personal liking as well in the dummying stage. Don't cut the testing short, your body will adapt and feel OK to almost any position for a short time, but it will take some time of going thru the driving motions before it says it's not happy. Before signing off and doing anything permanent try getting in and out of the truck a few times as well. You are building this truck for YOU, so make sure you will be comfortable while driving it.

 

Thank you AXracer

 

I just got back for the Mid-America Street Rod Nationals Plus here in Sprinfield, MO and got to look at a couple of fridges. One was a '57 with the Toyota power steering box conversion and a 3 inch dropped front axle. It looked great, and the fella who built it has built several and he sweares by the dropped straight axle and Toyo box. One thing he told me that he said REALLY made a difference in how it drove was adding a sway bar to the front and using Bilstein shocks. I think this is the way I'm gonna go with my '58. He also used a stock Ford power steering pump and said it worked great. As for front brakes, he used a aftermarket kit for the rotors, calipers and such and then he found that a mid 90's Dodge van booster and master cylinder was almost a bolt on fit. Really simple he said.

 

Another stupid question what is the best way to center up the steering box?