xeion headlight upgrades???
They just sound to good to be true.
opinions anyone
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6777
They are worth every penney IMO. I am considering making the swap to my 86 sealed beams as well. Just need to buy the new housings.
Thanks
They are a halogen bulb with a small amount of xenon in the mixture, and the glass is painted blue, purple, green, whatever color you like. The usually blue filter applied to the bulb filters all colors except the blue spectrum. This makes the bulb seem whitish-blue when running them at night, but actually reduces your vision. You are better off with standard Halogen bulbs as far as illuminating the road better due to the more yellow light. True HID systems are excellent with the white light, but they emit 3-4 times as much light as these imitation bulbs.
They tend to be higher wattage, and will draw more current in turn. They have melted plastic reflectors before from the extra heat.
IMO, stay away. Check out this site for an excellent explanation:
http://lighting.mbz.org/
Thanks for posting that link. Very informative. So, if I interpret what it said correctly, my vision increase was purely psychological. I disagree with that. I did notice some of the affects in poor weather that they mentioned when I ran "blue" colored bulbs. I ran Xenon clear bulbs in my explorer and felt they gave a very distinct advantage over stock. These were not some unknown company, but purchased through Sylvania-Ostram. They were not available in the US at that time, not sure now. Connections in Europe helps.
Bottom line: "Blue" lights are not effective, some are very bad, some just no better than stock.
However they work on the same principal and require tremendous internal pressure and heat to maintain the "arc" that generates the light. The reason these lamps look so "blue" is because there is NO FILAMENT in them. When they age, the arc is not as stable and the Xenon gas that helps to maintain the stability of the arc seeps out of the lamp....just like Halogen gas seeps out of a Halogen lamp over time. When this happens, the anode and cathode (contacts inside the lamp) that the arc jumps from become dirty, and worn from the heat generated by the arc. As they wear, the arc has to jump further...now you are saying "Greystreak, how much further can a 100th or 1000th of an inch make?" Well, you know how much difference a badly gapped spark plug will make. I rest my case. The "yellowing" occurs when the Xenon begins to seep out. When it leaks out something leaks in.....air with oxygen in it which reduces the temp. of the arc and turns it yellow.
The inherent possibility of the lamp exploding is always there. Unlike a Halgen lamp which will merely burn out much faster if you inadvertently touch the quartz envelope of the lamp, a Xenon arc lamp is pressurized from the inside rather than being vaccuum sealed like most other lamps. The manufacturing process requires stuffing as much Xenon into the lamp envelope as possible to maintain the arc. Scratch, or drop one of them and it will NOT IMPLODE like most lamps but EXPLODE. And with a good amount of force. Moreso if the lamp is hot. Now, these little ones may not explode with near the force of their big brothers but the potential for flying quartz is worse if it is being propelled outward rather than being sucked in when the quartz shatters. (The big lamps have been known to blow with enough force to reshape 18 guage sheet metal). Now don't be alarmed, the little guys aren't nearly that powerful but they will fail and possibly embed small bits of hot quartz into your plastic reflector.
Let me temper this entire post with this. These are very long life lamps. Most people who run these lamps will not see these things happen with their headlamps in the length of time they own their cars. The third or fourth owners may. You won't see too many brand new lamps fail. They are much brighter than any incandescent lamp including halogen cycle lamps because they do not rely on the "incandescence" of any metal to generate light. They are basically very well controlled sparks! Maintained sparks, not unlike a welding arc, but sparks nonetheless. I would support their use readily because they are extrememly efficient but I fear that the everyday backyard mechanic will encounter one of these lamps at its worst and they can be very unfriendly to people who don't know how to handle them.
When their big brothers are replaced in spotlights, we wear heavy long sleeves, an apron, a face sheild, and gloves. I have seen what a lamp with an internal pressure of nearly 23 atmospheres can do to the inside of a steel spotlight when it decides to explode. Its enough to temper my judgement when dealing with ANY of these lamps no matter what their size.
Oh and by the way, no your visual acuity was not psychological, there is documented study to support the idea that light nearer the blue end of the spectrum is easier to see by. Why do you think "cool white" fluorescent lamps and mercury vapor lamps are used in warehouses and places of manufacture? They aid in creating a better contrast than the red end of the spectrum. Hence, to light your home or dinner for you and your girl, you use something warm and "redder". It feels warmer, cozier and sheecan't see the flaws as much! They only things you can fool by changing the "color temperature" of a lighting source are cameras. Motion picture cameras and video cameras don't shoot very good pictures in very warm, lighting. There are filters made to deliberately fool the cameras but the human eye isn't so easily tricked. I my line of work we deliberately shift color temperature all the time so that we can use quartz lamps to supplement sunlight outside. Most quartz Halogen lamps burn at about 3200 degrees Kelvin. Sunlight pushes 65-6600 degrees Kelvin we just see them both as "really bright" the camera knows the difference.
My sincere apologies for the length of this reply but this touches on an area that I can actually speak with some real authority. Engine codes and axle shafts are still just a hobby.
Last edited by greystreak92; Feb 4, 2003 at 04:57 PM.
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wow! great info! ANd I think a record post lenghth too!!
Craterjoe.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Excellent post. The only problem is the Xenon replacement bulbs referred to are not true HID xenon bulbs. They are a halogen bulb with a mixture of xenon in the gas. They still have the filament, and work on standard incadescent technology.
I agree with everything you said about the xenon arc bulbs, and they are outstanding in automotive systems. The replacement bulbs with a blue coating on the bulb is what is referred to here, and is a really bad idea. While the headlights seem white or blue, they offer less visability due to the light filtering occuring at the bulb itself. Plain and simple, less light output = less visability.
The reason true xenon arc systems give more visability is because there is much, much more light output from those bulbs, and they only use 35 watts in a typical automotive system. When you apply a blue filter to a bulb, you reduce the amount of light output. This is why they don't really work well as hyped about with the marketing.
If you use the clear xenon mixed replacement bulbs, you will get more light output, and it may seem closer to white, but they won't be blue in color, and they do indeed work well. Some even have real dichroic filters on them, which also work. The Sylvania Xtra vision and Silverstars are both good examples of these bulbs. Wagner also makes a HO bulb with xenon, and is also clear. If you want to upgrade with your existing headlights, use these. If you want seriious light output, purchase a true HID system, which will include new lens assmeblies, bulbs, ballasts, and wiring.
Thanks for everyones input, this is why I brought this up. They were cheap and from what I hear worthless. even though they are only 12 bucks, ill save that for beer. hehe
later
Brian
I just like the Blue Bright look. Can I get it for my 92 Bronco?
If so would I have to replace the wiring, relays, ect?






