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I'm starting small to warm up my wrenching skills and get my 64 on the road. Decided to install new bushings in my pedal assembly and am having a hell of a time getting the shaft out. Spring clip of off and I am working PB Blaster down into the sleeves and pedal arms. She is not coming out despite some serious whacks with a hammer.
The clutch pedal moves freely but the brake pedal seems locked to the shaft.
Any ideas? I love hitting things, have access to a press, and can apply LOTS of heat!
Since you hit it you can forget about getting it out it is only a mild steel and will deform quite easily when hit. The Pedals run on plastic bushings so unless the truck was under water for a while it should not seize.
Is the assembly removed from the truck? If not you will need to remove it to fix it.
The brake and clutch pedal assembly shouldnt be too too hard to pull as an assembly...biggest thing is to support the master cylinder under the hood since its bolted to the support for the pedals. theres 6 bolts under the hood and 4 in the cab...2 that hold the column up and 2 slightly forward and farther upward towards the roof of the truck. thats all that holds the pedal assy. itself to the cab...
On the A/T pedal assembly in front of me, theres spring clips on both ends of the pedal shaft...and a bunch of dust bunnies stuck to the grease in the pedal shaft area.
If because of the buggered up shaft it sounds like you may have you have to pull it out...I would undo the battery first given all the wiring is right in the area of the pedal setup. The column may well have to come off of the steering box and loose from the firewall so it will be moveable to work the pedal assy out and around it. Theres also the clutch linkage going through the floor and all should be well...its a snug fit, but given your situation it sounds like you have to go forward with it now.
I don't know what kind of parts books you occasionally look at but there are EIGHT bolts holding the 64 pedal assembly to the firewall. Two additional 5/16 24 bolts and crush nuts attach it to the intermediate support behind the speedometer and two more go from the inside in to cage nuts to mount the steering column mount and support the lower dash section.
Four of the firewall bolts also attach the master cylinder adapter and outward facing master cylinder mounting bolts to the firewall as a sandwich.
The problem is he hit it, therefore deforming the small machined end on the outboard side of the locking clip. unless the diameter of the pin is reduced it will not fit back through the hole as he is trying to. The pin can only go in one way and if deformed will not pass back through the side reinforcement.
You must remove it and remove the deformed materials from the pin or it will never come out.
Texas, et. al. ...Go check out my gallery...misc detail pics...pics 15 onward should answer the questions about what its held in by,where and how many.
I really have no other way to say this and apologize ahead of time.
Do you just get mental block and fail to actually read the questions before you answer and insert appendages in your mouth?.
Texas is WORKING ON A 1964 Truck. Of which has EIGHT bolts hold it to the firewall. In case one never noticed there is a clutch master cylinder stamping on the outside of the brake master cylinder. The pedal assembly picks up the outboard clutch hole and one above it to brace the firewall on all early type cabs. A secondary 2 bolt independent brace picks up two more bolt holes at the inside of the clutch.
Clearly showing eight inserts
You depict a 65 mount of which has Six mounting bolts and is used similar all the way to 79. The 65 up firewalls are braced externally by a stamped sheet metal form.
The 61 to 64 mount is in no way shape or form similar to the 65 66.
Here is the pin he boogered.
You can see the one end is machined smaller to accommodate the mount. Once it goes through the mount there is a spring clip to hold it in place. If one hammers on the small end it mushrooms and will not fit back through the opening.
I stand corrected...I woulda swore I saw 65 ...In looking at the illustration book, that spring clip is the only thing keeping the shaft from walking out over the course of time if it should pop off...but that is an easily buggered pin though. My guess is that hole in the support is a pretty close tolerance hole as it appears the bushings are for the pedals only vs the shaft to mounting bracket.
I do recall years ago driving my then brother in laws 68 and shoving the clutch in and the brake pedal tweaking slightly coming back at me...This kinda stuff is what prolly kills those clutch pedal to relay shaft rods that go through the floor.
Either way after seeing what all there is to the pedal setup I think its one of those jobs to simply pull the whole shebang out and replace all of the bushings and whatever else may be worn
Exactly! and fix the peened end. He may need to replace the shaft if it collapsed at the spring clip relief. There is no way to fix it still in the truck.
Need to pay real close attention to the years. The Pedal bracket i show was also used in 65 and 66 on the old type cabs for four wheel drives and F350s.
Don, i had to get and entire new bracket for my 69 crew cab as the aluminum bushings were oblong and the clutch did just what you mention the shaft moved and it felt like the cab was falling over. I scrounged one out of a 72 automatic truck that is primo.
We can laugh about it over some beers at the olive garden.
Yeah...when that happened I was like what the hecks going on...wondering if the clutch was gonna keep going down...and staying down and/or was I gonna get a brake pedal in a bad way...I checked out how those later trucks were done...looks like those dont have the big removable assembly like the early 60s trucks did. It also makes me wonder exactly whats squeaking/squawking when the pedals shoved in or released sometimes...
Hey guys,
Thanks for all of the feedback. I stepped away from the truck for a few days but am back on it. Just to be clear, the assembly was not in the truck at any time. I just pulled it from a truck in a junk yard a month ago and decided to freshen the bushings. I did pull the spring clip off but the thing is rusted - I think to the clutch pedal. The brake pedal moves independently of the shaft but the clutch does not. Any ideas of how to extract it? I have been applying lots of PB Blaster.
I do not think I have screwed the shaft up to bad. It is a little marred but a file will take care of that.
well you are ahead of the game using PB Blaster...all you can really do is clean as much of it as possible...and wait...PB Blaster is the best there is IMO...if theres a spot where the pedal moves even a little bit...leave the pedal there as it soaks..inbetween the pedals and the bracket there should be 2 of what I would call spacers with a slot through them...get something thin in the groove and clean as much crud out as possible and soak/flush what you can...thats most likely either whats frozen. You may be able to get a thin blade screwdriver in the groove and spread ever so slightly...if you can...all you really need to do is if it will spread any is to break it free and soak with the PB Blaster...go grab a bite or so and come back to it and see what you get...
Hopefully that will work...those spacers like you see in there arent listed in the parts catalog...my hunch is you can use any kind of cylindrical stock to do the job. If you do get this apart and can reuse those spacers...keep the slots aimed downward...so dirt, etc. wont end up in that groove.
well you are ahead of the game using PB Blaster...all you can really do is clean as much of it as possible...and wait...PB Blaster is the best there is IMO...if theres a spot where the pedal moves even a little bit...leave the pedal there as it soaks..inbetween the pedals and the bracket there should be 2 of what I would call spacers with a slot through them...get something thin in the groove and clean as much crud out as possible and soak/flush what you can...thats most likely either whats frozen. You may be able to get a thin blade screwdriver in the groove and spread ever so slightly...if you can...all you really need to do is if it will spread any is to break it free and soak with the PB Blaster...go grab a bite or so and come back to it and see what you get...
Hopefully that will work...those spacers like you see in there arent listed in the parts catalog...my hunch is you can use any kind of cylindrical stock to do the job. If you do get this apart and can reuse those spacers...keep the slots aimed downward...so dirt, etc. wont end up in that groove.
- cs65
Well, I had a burst of energy and went out to give her a little "what for". Ended up that one of the pedal arms was frozen to the shaft. Both spacers and the other pedal turned smootly - independent of the shaft.
Time for the Sawzall.
Three cuts later and everything was off the bracket. I got the clutch arm out and beat on little section of shaft still stuck in there and she did not move. I guess I will go try to press it out.
That shaft was soft. Took about 10 seconds with the sawzall for each cut. Easy. Call the guys Number Dummy referenced on Tuesday and see how much a replacement is.
dont forget bushings too...you will need a total of 4...2 per side of the pedals. Is your truck an F100 or 250 ??? 2 or 4WD...makes a difference for some reason on the bushings...