Speedo/clutch issues
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Thank you. I'll pop off the diff cover tomorrow and hopefully even get some pics to send. What am I looking at from back there. I do have a Haynes for it, but it seems like they never have the picture of your parts or setup for some reason.
What I was thinking in the last post was that I should see a closed circuit after plugging in either the RABS or PSOM or both from the front RABS plug if I test between the poles.
What I was thinking in the last post was that I should see a closed circuit after plugging in either the RABS or PSOM or both from the front RABS plug if I test between the poles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Remove Rear Axle Differential Cover.
Measure the shortest distance from the sensor pole piece to the teeth on the anti-lock ring.
Rotate the axle 60°-90°.
Repeat the second and third steps for a total of five measurements.
Are all measurements between 0.005 inch and 0.045 inch and within 0.010 inch of each other?
/
Measure the shortest distance from the sensor pole piece to the teeth on the anti-lock ring.
Rotate the axle 60°-90°.
Repeat the second and third steps for a total of five measurements.
Are all measurements between 0.005 inch and 0.045 inch and within 0.010 inch of each other?
/
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
I am still letting the oil drain out, but here are some preliminary pics of the inside. I will measure the ring in a few mins and post back.
Also, I noticed that I can push and pull out the rear tires about 1/16 to 1/8in. or so. Inside, I watched the two "washers" that are on both sides of the pin in the first pic (000007) move in and out. They seem to make it in to the point of touching the pin, then out about what you can see on the left side. Any concern? I've read a few posts about those C clips going bad to worry a bit.
Also please notice the wear pattern on the gears in this photo. Kind of concerned me as well.
Also, I noticed that I can push and pull out the rear tires about 1/16 to 1/8in. or so. Inside, I watched the two "washers" that are on both sides of the pin in the first pic (000007) move in and out. They seem to make it in to the point of touching the pin, then out about what you can see on the left side. Any concern? I've read a few posts about those C clips going bad to worry a bit.
Also please notice the wear pattern on the gears in this photo. Kind of concerned me as well.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
That tone ring in 00004 is what we are concerned about. Make sure the carrier does not have any left to right play at all. Make sure the tone ring does not wobble as the ring gear goes around. and watch the gap between the tone ring and the VSS sensor as the ring gear goes around.
Did the rear end make any noise at all, if not I would be too concerned about the ware patterns.
There is some axle play in and out but I do not think I have seen one hit the center pin.
Did the rear end make any noise at all, if not I would be too concerned about the ware patterns.
There is some axle play in and out but I do not think I have seen one hit the center pin.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
The rear end has made a few "thumps" in the past. I had to drive over a pass about 50 miles and it made a thump, then another one that was a little worse, then another one that was still worse, then seemed fine after I got on flat land. It has made it a total of 15 times but only on one long trip. It also coincided with the speedo going whack on me. If the speedo was fine, the thump never happened and the truck drove perfect. If the speedo got wacky, then I started to anticipate the thump. But it hasn't happened in some time. I keep waiting for it, though. I thought that might be brakes engaging at some point, but it wasn't that violent. Just a thump, like it missed or something.
Heading back now to answer the rest, but figured I'd throw that in before I get back under there.
Heading back now to answer the rest, but figured I'd throw that in before I get back under there.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
No the carrier is the large part that is held in by the two large bearing caps on each side.
It contains the large ring gear and the smaller gears and the LS clutches.
What rear end do you have in the truck (8.8, 10.25, ...)?
I will guess 8.8":
/
It contains the large ring gear and the smaller gears and the LS clutches.
What rear end do you have in the truck (8.8, 10.25, ...)?
I will guess 8.8":
/
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Just tested my tolerances. What a pain in the rear to get the feelers to check it. You do get a technique down or drown on that one.
I'm .021 and within the .01 tolerance. More like a .002 tolerance. No movement on the gear when rotating either tire or pulling/pushing in and out.
Pretty sure this is the 8.8. Tag says S837J X 3L55 88 5D19
No movement on the carrier.
I'm .021 and within the .01 tolerance. More like a .002 tolerance. No movement on the gear when rotating either tire or pulling/pushing in and out.
Pretty sure this is the 8.8. Tag says S837J X 3L55 88 5D19
No movement on the carrier.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
I would think that, but the VSS I got performed the same as my old one. Works at times, mostly doesn't. I did replace that during initial troubleshooting as it was available at my local store. Any way this could still be the PSOM?
Oh and can I put the rear end back together at this point? I'd like to have the RTV set up overnight.
Found a good article here http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/7022_1 and tried the check in the resetting the PSOM part, just to see what the initial results would be. The needle doesn't really do a clean sweep, but the computer comes back with E 08 6 which is good I guess. I got 972CAL for the second step.
Oh and can I put the rear end back together at this point? I'd like to have the RTV set up overnight.
Found a good article here http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/7022_1 and tried the check in the resetting the PSOM part, just to see what the initial results would be. The needle doesn't really do a clean sweep, but the computer comes back with E 08 6 which is good I guess. I got 972CAL for the second step.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
The bottom line is you have to generate an AC Voltage from the rear end before the RABS Module or the PSOM will work.
So the PSOM may be bad but you can not confirm that until you can generate an AC Voltage.
But that sounds a little dangerous.
By the way what are you using for a meter? If it is not a high impedance meter the meter may be doing away with the signal from the rear end and making us chase our tails.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
I looked back on the electrical schematic just now and noticed I didn't take the RABS data link apart during any of this troubleshooting. Is that the small connector with 1 wire in and 1 out that I took apart to check if there were any ABS codes?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Sorry I must have mislead you, but I saw the ABS light on initially but haven't seen it in 3 weeks. I did get it to blink for the RABS test, though.
My meter is this one: Centech Digital Clamp meter
Clamp-style meter lets you make instant tests and measurements.
* Data hold for easy reading
* Easy-to-read LCD display with an upper limit of 1999
* 0 adjust
* 500 volt insulation test
* Diode test
* Rotary switch
* Double insulated leads
* Resistance: 200-20k-2Mohm
* Low power indicator
Uses one 9V battery, sold separately. Includes carry case. DC voltage range: 1000 volts; AC voltage range: 200-750; AC amps: 20-200-1000A
My meter is this one: Centech Digital Clamp meter
Clamp-style meter lets you make instant tests and measurements.
* Data hold for easy reading
* Easy-to-read LCD display with an upper limit of 1999
* 0 adjust
* 500 volt insulation test
* Diode test
* Rotary switch
* Double insulated leads
* Resistance: 200-20k-2Mohm
* Low power indicator
Uses one 9V battery, sold separately. Includes carry case. DC voltage range: 1000 volts; AC voltage range: 200-750; AC amps: 20-200-1000A