Anyone have the pressures and adjustment procedures for testing the injectors in the 7.3 IDI 1991 and newer?

My factory books are long gone so I have no reference.

 

Anyone?

 

checking for leakage. "blow the nozzle tip dry using filtered compressed air. operate test pump to maintain pressure at about 1378 kpa (200 psi) jp;d fpr 5 seconds. dry or droplet after 5 seconds is acceptable, if the droplet falls before 5 seconds then its unacceptable.

 

I seem to remember there was also a "pop-off" pressure reading that they all had to be at (and withing somuch % of it) when they squirted, and that they were adjustable.
I got a matched set out of a van at the wreckers, and want to be sure before installing them.
The cost of having them tested is almost as much as getting a new set, and I can't afford that right now.

 

step 1 prepare stand for making tests. fill stand reservoir with clean calibration fluid. open tester valve slightly and operate tester handle to expel air from tester and outlet pipe. operate tester until solid fluid (without air bubbles) flows from the end of the outlet. close tester valve.
2 connect injection noxxle to test stand. care should be taken to avoid cross threading. tighten connector nut securely wiht end wrench. noxxle adapter whick is supplied with tester 014-000300 has rh thread to nozzle assembly and hl thread to tester piping.
3 bleed air from nozzle. open stand valve and operate tester handle for 8 to 10 quick strokes to expel (bleed) air from the injection nozzle. fluid should discharge from the spray hole in nozzle tip.
4 check nozzle opening pressure. close pump valve and operate pump handle in slow even strokes to bring system up to pressure. record the highest pressure reached before nozzle opens. repeat operation, increasing handle speed if necessary to establish consistent readings.
5 checking for leakage. "blow the nozzle tip dry using filtered compressed air. operate test pump to maintain pressure at about 1378 kpa (200 psi) jp;d fpr 5 seconds. dry or droplet after 5 seconds is acceptable, if the droplet falls before 5 seconds then its unacceptable.
6 after testing is completed, make sure to open the pump valve to release the built up pressure to removing the nozzle from the tester. when nozzle is removed, cap the nozzle tip and inlet until installed back on engine.

thats 1-6

 

heres the pic showed... (new) 1,900 +/- 75...
(used) 1,450

 

Cool!

Now all I need is to find an adapter to fit the line to a pipe fitting!
Even the local International truck repair shop no longer has a fitting for those injectors for their own use.

My lack of on line search skills has left me stranded.

I could try to cut and weld the line to a steel fitting.

Any ideas?

 

there should be a place that sells hydraulic fittings. google search a place called grainger. they can get almost anything

 

they are right down the street from me

 

I just got back from Grainger 2 hours ago with the 2000 PSI gauge that I got there ($14) and they did not have any fitting that even came close to working.

 

then check for hydraulic fitting place. try local diesel truck places. like a freightliner or peterbilt. they should be able to point you in the right direction.

 

I gave up looking for a fitting so I took the line extension that is used for timing, (looks like they made a line too short and added an extension) tore the timing parts out (see the hole in the photo) to bare metal and welded a steel hose barb with a 3/8" pipe male end onto the female side of the Ford injector line fitting.
I cut the barb end short enough to let the large parts come together, but the short barb stub was the right diameter to slip in and good at helping align the two pieces for welding.
The attache image has a similar brass fitting but it has the smaller 1/4 pipe thread.

 

glad you got something figured out

 

Here is what the finished product will look like, only the color will be determined by whatever color Powder-coat I have enough of to coat it with.
I like their colors but only have Red and even some Ruby Red but I'm out of Black.



Now I need to know how to adjust the injectors if needed.
I believe there were shims involved inside.

 

New or used if your gong to the trouble of setting them set them to 'new' spec..

95% percent of old injectors are not worth a 'rebuild' according to typ4. typ4 sells new sets of Delphi's matched to within 50 psi of another for under 3 bills with return line kit and viton o-rings. He's a good guy and I am satisfied with his product.
I really think you should use a gauge that goes to at least 3000 psi, like the one in the picture you posted.
nate