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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old May 23, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #16  
Julies Cool F1's Avatar
Julies Cool F1
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From: Poway, Ca.
I agree with Wayne, plus if you took the temp in the top of the radiator it's going to be a little warmer.

Again, you are basing this worry on an electric gauge reading that you don't know is correct. You need to hook up that mechanical temp gauge to get a good operating reading - it will be correct. Then if it's running at a good temp, we can adjust your electric temp gauge to read correctly.

But, ya gotta put an accurate mechanical gauge on it first to see what it's really running at.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #17  
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From: Alvin, Texas 77511
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Thanks for correcting me on that term. I'm from the south so I guess my language is kind of off. LOL Anyhow he got it cleaned out for me and also told me the radiator cap was worn out because the rubber was passed the metal part on the cap and it wouldn't let pressure off the way it was. I purchased one from the auto parts store a 4# one and looks like he was right about the rubber part. The cap fits much better than it did. I wondered if the engine was stopped up so I ran a water hose though the therostat hole and water came puring out the bottom hose that hooks to the water pump as fast as it went in so I guess no block in the motor on both sides. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #18  
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So did the shop really rod it out, or clean it chemically? I don't trust the chemicals, even shop quality acids.

It is critical that you set your timing to the mark on the crank at idle, with the vacuum disconnected. Don't advance beyond that! More will make it run hot, not better!
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 05:56 AM
  #19  
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From: Alvin, Texas 77511
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Well he told me that he rodded it out so I have to take his word for it. I will check the timing to see where it is with the vacuum disconnected. I guess there is only one mark on the crank to go by right? Haven't checked to see. I'll try this and see what happens next.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:28 AM
  #20  
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Unlike most engines, the flat V8 has a little ball on the rim of the crankshaft pulley that represents 4 deg advance, instead of TDC. Just set the timing so the pointer aligns with the ball and you're done.
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #21  
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i think i would have checked the timing b4 i spent the money on the rad but at least you got a clean rad now so that won't be a problem.

the southern language is much different than anything i have ever come across before example: light bulb = bub, radiator = ray-diator, engine = motor,and when they ask what model they really mean what year. the first time i told a southerner that a motor was electric and my car had an engine he didn't look very happy with me same thing when i told him a ray-diator heats your house and my car had a radiator. I guess we talk funny up north, my car is a stick shift or manual not a straight shift, but i guess i need to take up the language now that i live here.

i had a 79 that would run hot, set the tmming and it ran right where it should but would over heat when shut down, was driving up a hill in the field and the muffler fell off one day and its run nice and cool ever since and doesn't have that carry over heat anymore
 
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