Thanks Andy. I lost the top half of the clutch pedal travel this morning and can no longer get enough push on the fork to make the clutch work. My aftermarket slave will be here this afternoon (I went with what was close by and available now).

I know the slave was leaking since it dripped on my while I was trying to bleed the system. I'll update this evening after I get it installed.

 

Well I'm $53 poorer but my truck shifts like new again.

Had to remove the master from the firewall to get the lines all flowing up hill to bleed it. Would have been quicker to just stick the pre-bled unit in, but this was closer and I could have it today.

Wish I would have hung onto my old hydraulics. Since I had to bleed it anyway, I would have put the clear reservoir back on.

 

Glad to hear that was it! All fixed up for $53.00 and now you are ready for another 100k plus miles

 

Good news, thanks for the update.

 

Or not.

Update - It seems each replacement part is lasting half as long as the item it replaced. Friction point is back near the floor, hangs a little getting into 3rd, hard to shift into reverse and granny. Fluid level is fine so I tried bleeding it to see if that helped. It did a little, but while holding the rod in and holding the slave up to my ear, I could hear what sounded like bubbles inside after I had bled everything. Bled it again to where it sounded good and held the rod in and after 5 seconds I heard bubbles again.

So I'm going to try a pre-bled unit from Rock Auto and see how long it lasts. After reading a recent post by Barney, I'm going to try the pre-bled set up again and see how that does.

 

is the bushing on the master rod and bushings in the pedal box still tight? those 2 items can cost you 1 to 2 inches of pedal travel.

 

I checked the master bushing, but not the pivot point. I don't think it's the pedal since there's no slop at all, just a low friction point and some issues getting into a few gears. Especially since bleeding the system make it better for a short time before the problem returns.

 

Chris, i had this problem a bunch of times starting in 01 thru 06 between then i tried several masters /slaves / ect... i was about to custom make an adj rod for the bell housing like the old ones . but i put in a complete kit from ford in early 06 and it was way better , high in the pedal travel . now im having low pedal starting to show again im thinking about 100k - 125k miles i got the # at work i cut a piece of the box. its on my desk it fixed it so good its been there since.i tacked it on the wall.

 

Wow, you guys, I'm still running the original clutch master and slave setup.
.
I probably jinxed myself now.

 

yea thats what happens to me

 

Well I got a new pre-bled Dorman unit from Rock Auto for $89. It came with a new rod for the master, unlike the Ford unit I once bought, and even came with a new CPP switch which is usually another $30 or so.

Truck shifts easier and the pedal is a little softer than it's been in a long time. The friction point is also up off the floor just a tad higher than it used to be so all is good.

And no offense Dan, but I'm fine with having to change the clutch hydraulics every 100k or so compared to the troubles you've had with your low mileage.

 

Damn, for 89 buks, think i'll get one, and store it with my spare/new water pump.

Chris, wouldnt happen to remember the part # do ya?

 

Dorman Part # is CC649021 and it's under the manual transmission section in their catalog. I don't think there's a Rock Auto part number. They have a section called Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Assembly and it looks like they charged me $88.79 for the whole thing.

Their online catalog is kind of a pain to get used to, but the prices are right. Also check around for a discount code. They usually have some floating around somewhere that can get you another 5% off or so.

 

No offence taken.

 

Kwik, what is the purpose of the lock on the OBD port?