I'm getting ready to install a cam in my truck and was just wanting to get some tips from some people that have done it before. I've got the assembly lube and bought some comp cam break in oil. There anything else needed to install and break in the cam, or anything else that would be good insurance to make sure the break in goes smooth? I think I remember reading to soak the lifters in some oil before installing them. Is that a good idea? Also, when I put the head gasket on should I use any sealant? Copper gasket? Just want to get some peoples input. Don't want to put it in and then everything go to ***** in a week! Thanks for the help!

 

I always buy the v.dampener 'repair' kit. It is a thin sleeve that goes over the end of v.d. to insure you get a good seal on the seal. Put a bit of silicone in the keeper channel so it doesn't leak there. Use 'gorilla snot' (weather strip adhesive) to adhere front of pan gasket to pan so it doesn''t slide around when putting on the t. cover. You'll have to cut tab ends off either end of the front pan gasket, and use a little bead of silicone on either end.

Unless you have a press, you'll need a shop to press off the cam gear and press on the new one. Pay attention to which side is toward the engine on the ring. Hope you got the Cloyes gears or they could knock. Use the all metal gears. Lifters don't need to be soaked. Cover with lube and put them in. Dab either end of p. rods with an assembly lube, the thick grease type, same on the v. stem tip.

Cover bearings and all lobes and dizzy gear with lube. Align t. gear marks. Use Locktite on cam bolts. Lube gears. Use a good silicone rv on t. cover. Wipe new seal with lube/oil before putting on, and wipe end of crank. Tighten bolts slowly in increments, jumping in pattern, slowly and evenly with a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Put engine at TDC, and put in dizzy, making sure the rotar is at #1. Put in p. rods for #1, and put on the two rockers. As you start to tighten the lock nut for rocker, roll the p. rod between thumb and forefinger and gradually tighten the nut until you just feel resistance on the p.rod. That is zero lash. From there I tighten 1/4 turn. If you do that and they clatter, then you can go to 1/2 turn. Adjust all the valves that way. I like to remove the cap of dizzy, and mark inside with a sharpie the position where the rotor is at tdc on each cylinder so it is easy the 2nd time. I forgot to say that you should find a way to put your dizzy oil pump drive shaft on a drill, or get a different shaft and put it down into the oil pump. Spin it carefully before putting on the v. cover to make sure oil is being pumped to ALL rockers.

Glue v. cover gasket to cover and let dry, then bolt it to head. Most cam co's will provide instructions for breaking in. Mine is a Isky, and they wanted to zinc etc. type oil, and IIRC 1800 rpm for 20 minutes. They warned not to let it idle.

If you pulled the head, then you prob. have coolant in the oil. Change oil and filter before starting engine.

Don't put antifreeze in the system until you have run it a day or so, and are sure all is to stay put, and all leaks are pluged. It is cheaper to wait than to buy new twice.

Good luck.

 

That just about sums it up.

 

With that ported head and the other mods, I am curious to hear what you think about the difference. I'm sure the other forum members would like to hear too.

 

Nicely done Kevin. I don't know how to give them properly, but points to you. OBCB

 

I forgot to mention: If you're turning the engine over with a breaker bar on the v. damp. bolt, it is always a good idea to remove it before you start the engine.

...life lessons learned!

 

Hey thanks for the info. I've got everything put back together today. Just got the front end to put back together and the radiator back in and adjust the valves. Today was a heck of a day. First off couldn't get the fan clutch off it was seized on the water pump. Needless to say new water pump and fan clutch! I got it apart. Got the cam out and the crank gear off. Went to get the cam gear off and busted the cam thrust plate!! 65 Miles away and I got a new one. Then got back to putting everything back together and my tool to put the gears on didn't work on the camshaft. So off to town to try to find someone who had the tool. No one, luckily someone at the parts store told me of this little engine shop about 20 miles away. Went there and they pressed it on. After that it went fairly smooth. Hopefully if I get enough time tomorrow I can finish it. I took pictures of most of the process so hope to do a write up on it.

I'm curious to see how it runs with all the mods and head and cam. I will for sure let you guys know how it is.

For the Damper pully bolt I've learned the hard way to! After I put the intake on and swapped over to duraspark I left the ratched on the bolt. Fired it up make a screetching sound then started clanking!! Luckily it back the bolt out and just messed the bolt up and bent the fan a bit. Had to run a tap down the crank and get a new bolt. I will for sure make sure it is off this time!!

 

I have heard that using the w/pump from early models, with the cast impeller, is best. Of course I have the Autozone steel one in mine, ha ha.

V. dampener bolt: Yep, you only make that mistake once. I did it too.

 

click on the heart in the right corner, a box pops down, and you fill it out, if you have a complaint, click on the other one, it goes to a moderator.

 

motors with serp belt turn the pump backwards, early model pumps won't work

 

Thankyou dustybumpers. OBCB

 

That doesn't mean I'm wrong!! lol.

Thanks for catching that, Dusty.

 

no prob kevin

 

"Photos, photos, photos, we want photos!

 

Well I got it running today and took it for its first drive! Runs pretty good. Had a hard time adjusting the valves. I had to use some shims on them to get them adjusted. I gotta get the carb all tuned back in. My little air/fuel mixture gauge says its running lean. I've got it put back to how it cam from the factory. Might have to go a stage richer. Notice when I got on it alittle bit it had lean spots. Didn't want to get on it to much until I run it and get it broke in good. I remember reading on a post I had over at fordsix, about advancing the timing a couple degrees. By doing this is this meaning turning the distributor? Or do you have to do something else? Im confused! Thanks