Code reader not working 91 F150
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
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From: Easton,Ks
If you can not do the KOEO self-test then pin #30 is not your problem.
If you have an E4OD transmission, they do not use pin number 30.
What I posted above was copied from FFI I do not know if I can go along with it.
For the standard and AOD pin 30 should be hot when the key is in the start position or the run self test will not run.
Here is a diagram that may help:
/
If you have an E4OD transmission, they do not use pin number 30.
What I posted above was copied from FFI I do not know if I can go along with it.
For the standard and AOD pin 30 should be hot when the key is in the start position or the run self test will not run.
Here is a diagram that may help:
/
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Start unwraping the wiring harness to see if you can find where the problem is or at least take it apart enough so that you can establish the links with extra wire.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Okay, so I tried jumping the STI wire instead of tearing into the harness as that appears to be a long and painful process. I used a couple of those quick splice connectors to tie in just behind the STI connector and just below where the STI wire goes into the EEC connector.
Which leads me to a most likely stupid question, but I have to ask. The wire coming out of the STI connector, should be the same color wire that's going into the EEC connector, correct? Because I hooked into what I'm sure was the right wire going into the EEC w/ my jumper, and I'm still not getting any continuity readings.
Does this mean the problem is in the EEC connector? Or should I go ahead and start pulling the harness apart and try to chase down something else?
Oh, and hopefully this isn't as bad as I think, but I forgot to disconnect the negative battery cable before pulling the EEC connector off- what did I [potentially] screw up?
Which leads me to a most likely stupid question, but I have to ask. The wire coming out of the STI connector, should be the same color wire that's going into the EEC connector, correct? Because I hooked into what I'm sure was the right wire going into the EEC w/ my jumper, and I'm still not getting any continuity readings.
Does this mean the problem is in the EEC connector? Or should I go ahead and start pulling the harness apart and try to chase down something else?
Oh, and hopefully this isn't as bad as I think, but I forgot to disconnect the negative battery cable before pulling the EEC connector off- what did I [potentially] screw up?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
STI/MAP:
Self-Test:
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Thanks for the response Subford, but I got it sorted out. As it turns out, the wire was corroded a good 2 inches or so behind the STI connector. Of course I didn't realize this until after I'd torn the harness apart, but that's okay. The best I could do was just cut it and put a standard female spade connector on there, but it worked. I was able to pull the codes.
Speaking of which, KOEO and CM passed. But I got code 412 [cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check] and 411 [cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check]. I've gotten these codes before and assumed them to be TPS codes, which was when I tested my TPS and found it to be bad. But I've had a new TPS on there for probably 4 months now, and it's adjusted to read out 0.9 volts right now, so what else could these codes point to? Just out of curiosity, is there any way to read the computer and find out what voltage is expected from the TPS? I suppose I'd have to take it to a shop for that.
Thanks again for the help.
Speaking of which, KOEO and CM passed. But I got code 412 [cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check] and 411 [cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check]. I've gotten these codes before and assumed them to be TPS codes, which was when I tested my TPS and found it to be bad. But I've had a new TPS on there for probably 4 months now, and it's adjusted to read out 0.9 volts right now, so what else could these codes point to? Just out of curiosity, is there any way to read the computer and find out what voltage is expected from the TPS? I suppose I'd have to take it to a shop for that.
Thanks again for the help.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
I am not sure why you thought that a TPS was the reasion for the 412/411 code as I would have thought it would be the Air Bypass Valve (IAC) on the throttle body. You might try cleaning it but most wind up replacing it.
Possible causes:
-- Open or shorted circuit
-- Throttle linkage binding
-- Improper idle airflow set
-- Throttle body/ISC solenoid contamination
-- Items external to Idle Speed Control system that could affect engine rpm.
-- Damaged ISC solenoid
-- Damaged processor
Look at this link:
Ford Fuel Injection Idle Air Bypass (IAB)
As far as to what voltage the computer is looking for from the TPS read this link:
Ford Fuel Injection Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
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Possible causes:
-- Open or shorted circuit
-- Throttle linkage binding
-- Improper idle airflow set
-- Throttle body/ISC solenoid contamination
-- Items external to Idle Speed Control system that could affect engine rpm.
-- Damaged ISC solenoid
-- Damaged processor
Look at this link:
Ford Fuel Injection Idle Air Bypass (IAB)
As far as to what voltage the computer is looking for from the TPS read this link:
Ford Fuel Injection Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Cheese'n'rice... now that it's right in front of my face, it seems so obvious- especially since it's been idling rough! 
I'm not entirely sure why I thought those codes referred to TPS either- it's a good thing there's guys on here that know what they're talking about- I'd still be investigating that!
So I did the IAC test via FFI.com and it's bad. Good thing is it's pay day tomorrow and I can pick up a new one almost as soon as I get off work.
This may not be the end of my problem but hopefully it will alleviate most of the issues I'm having.
Thanks again to subford and conanski for all the help- I really appreciate your patience!
I'm not entirely sure why I thought those codes referred to TPS either- it's a good thing there's guys on here that know what they're talking about- I'd still be investigating that!
So I did the IAC test via FFI.com and it's bad. Good thing is it's pay day tomorrow and I can pick up a new one almost as soon as I get off work.
This may not be the end of my problem but hopefully it will alleviate most of the issues I'm having.
Thanks again to subford and conanski for all the help- I really appreciate your patience!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Okay, got a new IAC installed this morning. Went ahead and reset the computer as I was doing it, then took it for about a 40 minute drive to give the computer time to relearn stuff.
Engine performance has improved SIGNIFICANTLY!
There was still a bit of a stumble tho, so when I got back I pulled the codes again. It threw 412 out again, but it also gave me 311 [Thermactor system inoperative] and 213 [SPOUT circuit open]. So I gave the SPOUT a check and it was loose in the connector [while resetting the timing some months ago I accidentally broke the retaining tabs, so there's nothing to really restrain it]. The thermactor system I'm not too worried about for the time being.
So for the time being I think I'm in good shape. I'll just have to fidget around with it when I have the time now.
Thanks again for all your help guys- I'm not saying I wouldn't have figured it out, but it probably would have taken longer than it has.
Engine performance has improved SIGNIFICANTLY!
There was still a bit of a stumble tho, so when I got back I pulled the codes again. It threw 412 out again, but it also gave me 311 [Thermactor system inoperative] and 213 [SPOUT circuit open]. So I gave the SPOUT a check and it was loose in the connector [while resetting the timing some months ago I accidentally broke the retaining tabs, so there's nothing to really restrain it]. The thermactor system I'm not too worried about for the time being.
So for the time being I think I'm in good shape. I'll just have to fidget around with it when I have the time now.
Thanks again for all your help guys- I'm not saying I wouldn't have figured it out, but it probably would have taken longer than it has.
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