I know there is a body and paint forum but I thought I would post this here anyway

I am replacing the wheel arches on my 78, I am using Eastwoods panel adhesive kit.
What would be a good product to treat the rust and metal under the panel I am replacing? I was thinking of coating the area with por15 or using eastwoods rust converter. anyone done this?

 

you should be cutting away all of the rust, not covering it up. surface rust can be sanded off. spray hd anti-rust on the back side after you are done.

 

I'm replacing the wheel arch, am cutting out all the rust on the outer panel, I will be cleaning up and coating the inner panel (if that makes sense)

 

I hear good things about por15. I am going to be using that on the frame of my 77 f250. I already stripped one frame by hand and i dont want to do it again so i will give the por15 a shot.

 

When you cut out the old panel for replacement are you flanging the body sheet metal or gluing on top of it? I have had the replacement panels of about 4 years and I have a pneumatic flanger tool but to old or lazy to put them on. I would like to hear how it comes out.

 

I will be flanging the old panel, I will try and remember to take pics as I go,

 

Chassis saver.

Glue? Ugh...I'd rather weld them on.

 

Panel adhesive is great for panels like entire box sides , roof skins, door skins and anywhere you can hide the seam. If you use it to put on a repair panel you can expect the it to "shadow " where the new and old panel are glued together. It's fine if it a daily driver but if you want it to be perfect welding is the way to go. I sand blast then paint the inside of the panel before put the repair panel in. Good luck

 

with the proper filler and body work why would it shadow?? But even if it does it is a truck and always will be used as one, I would agree that welding is the way to go for a true restore but I sold all my body tools 18 years ago so I am stuck with a driveway repair.

 

I would agree but I am stuck in my driveway with no welder.

I have been looking at chassis saver, might have to look alittle harder.

 

I mentioned this is a response to a previous thread, but I am NOT a fan of POR-15.

After reading all the hype on the product I used it on a K5 Blazer restoration and was completely underwhelmed by it. I tried brushing it with foam brushes as well as bristle brushes, and later I tried spraying it.

A frame has a lot of holes in it and when one brushes POR-15 it (like most paint) tends to sit in a hole and then later it decides to run. POR-15 takes a long time to set up, and during this time anything such as dust, flies, etc will stick to it.

Yes, it's probably better than Rustoleum, but after using it once, I won't use it again.

My Dentside projects are "on-hold" right now as I have two Tucker Sno Cats I'm working on. One of them has a 6-way snow blade and today I sandblasted the blade and pusher frame. This would (in theory) be a great use for POR-15, but instead I'm going to use Sherwin Williams Polane HS Plus on the blade as well as the pusher frame (and later the whole 'Cat).

It's very definitely more expensive than POR-15, but when one considers the hours spent stripping a vehicle down to the frame and then getting the frame ready to paint, the cost of the paint seems incidental.

 

Thanks for all the ideas, Mabye I will just go the old school navel jelly route, or a spray on rust converter. I will be sanding and wire brushing all the areas I can. I know it is not going to be 100% but I can only do the best I can with the equiptment I have.