another a.i.r. question?
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another a.i.r. question?
I installed a set of Ford Racing stainless headers today into a new Magnaflow cat and y pipe, through my existing Dynaflow exhaust, on my 96 f250.
First , if your buying headers Ford Racing makes a nice and easy install.
I plugged the headers with the supplied plugs and unplugged the pink vaccum line and plugged it where all that junk ends on top of manifold. I have air blowing out that little muffler looking thing . So do I go smaller belt and disconnect pump or do I somehow route the air back to the pump?
Thanks Jim
First , if your buying headers Ford Racing makes a nice and easy install.
I plugged the headers with the supplied plugs and unplugged the pink vaccum line and plugged it where all that junk ends on top of manifold. I have air blowing out that little muffler looking thing . So do I go smaller belt and disconnect pump or do I somehow route the air back to the pump?
Thanks Jim
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yes removing the pump altogether is possible, I can't help you with the belt size but it shouldn't be too hard to find. I have never gutted a pump but others here have and say it's not too difficult to do either.. and it eliminates the need for a different belt obviously.
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Im removing my air pump as well,and have the same question.I have found some numbers for belts after a lot of searching and reading,but I dont know if they apply to my motor,or yours.(my 92 has a different idler and alt.than my friends 96)I have seen 87 and a half inches on a post,and I have seen 21mmx1995mm on a post.Hopefully someone will chime in and help us both out.
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Elder User
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From: Angleton Tx.
I removed my AIR pump. I look and see what size the belt was I put on it. I know i was a bit small and had to be forced on. Any other larger size would not have been tight enough. It works great. I removed all the AIR stuff when I put on my Ford Racing Headers
BTW, I ONLY use GATES belts. Any other are thinner and may stretch to much
BTW, I ONLY use GATES belts. Any other are thinner and may stretch to much
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From: Central Mississippi
I posted this up in another thread:
I recently removed my "soon to lock up" air pump on my 5.8. While shopping for the plastic idlers (which had developed flat spots) I found that there were 2 different types available for the tensioner. 150s got plastic, 250s got metal which is what I bought.
Initially, I tested alternate routing the original belt. By going "over" the fixed idler, under the tensioner, then around the Alt, then back to the crank. This actually worked. However, the Alt would squeal for few seconds when first cranked and when put under heavy electrical load.
Since I didn't care for that, I took a length of 3/8ths-7/16ths heavy nylon rope, routing the rope under the tensioner first (after it comes off the AC compressor) completely by-passing the upper idler, then looping the Alt before returning to the crank.
I took the rope, hung it on a nail & stretched it out tight, then tacked another nail at the bottom of the loop. This gave me a length of 47-1/2 inside the loop which I doubled to give me a 95 inch starting point.
I used my locally owned parts house to source the belt. Took 3 trips, but finally wound up with a 96.08 inch belt that gave the best tension & no noise. After a couple hundred miles, I've had no problems.
This past weekend I did some work on a friends 93 Taurus. I found that the tensioner's idler has the same bearing diameter & depth and is ribbed & shouldered like the Alt pully. I plan on using this if I develop belt throwing issues.
Hope this helps someone.
Initially, I tested alternate routing the original belt. By going "over" the fixed idler, under the tensioner, then around the Alt, then back to the crank. This actually worked. However, the Alt would squeal for few seconds when first cranked and when put under heavy electrical load.
Since I didn't care for that, I took a length of 3/8ths-7/16ths heavy nylon rope, routing the rope under the tensioner first (after it comes off the AC compressor) completely by-passing the upper idler, then looping the Alt before returning to the crank.
I took the rope, hung it on a nail & stretched it out tight, then tacked another nail at the bottom of the loop. This gave me a length of 47-1/2 inside the loop which I doubled to give me a 95 inch starting point.
I used my locally owned parts house to source the belt. Took 3 trips, but finally wound up with a 96.08 inch belt that gave the best tension & no noise. After a couple hundred miles, I've had no problems.
This past weekend I did some work on a friends 93 Taurus. I found that the tensioner's idler has the same bearing diameter & depth and is ribbed & shouldered like the Alt pully. I plan on using this if I develop belt throwing issues.
Hope this helps someone.
This is using the shorter belt:
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Thanks for your time Scndsin,but your 5.8 has a different setup than my 92 does.(although it should help broozerthehoundog,the original poster)My 92 has a different style alternator,and a single idler pulley.If anyone has removed your air pump on a 92 with the 5.8,please let me know the size of belt or a part number.Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: East Wenatchee, WA
Thanks for your time Scndsin,but your 5.8 has a different setup than my 92 does.(although it should help broozerthehoundog,the original poster)My 92 has a different style alternator,and a single idler pulley.If anyone has removed your air pump on a 92 with the 5.8,please let me know the size of belt or a part number.Thanks in advance.
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