I have a 1963 f 100 custom cab pick up.
Today I took it in for a new exaust and found out that the manifold was broke now I need a new one dose anyone know where a person can find one. every where i turn tells me that they dont make them any more but I find that hard to belive. Some where there has to be a new one. I would be gratfull for any help.

 

the engin is a 223. Sorry for leaving that out.

 

New 223 exhaust manifolds are non existant, as they've been obsolete for over 30 years. No one...AFAIK is reproducing it.

The only possibilty is...finding a used manifold, and that may not be EZ. This manifold was/is notorious for cracking.

C3AZ9426A (replaced C1TE9426A & B8A9426A) .. Exhaust Manifold / Obsolete / No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any,

Fits 223: 1954/64 F100/600 / 1954/64 fullsized Ford passenger cars.

The only source I know of that might have one (used) is Big M Automotive in Williams CA. Mike has a bunch of Galaxies in his yard, some might have a 223.

 

I might have one. I'll call the guy who hauled away my motor later on today and see if he's still got it. I'm in Arkansas, so freight shouldn't kill you too bad.

 

Thanks that is what i was finding out that no one makes an aftermarket.

 

Thanks I also found someone local who said they may have a good used one so if you will do that it would be great. It may not be a bad idea to have an extra one or two on hand lol.

 

I called my friend, but he wasn't home and hasn't returned my call yet. I may get the manifold back from him and stick it on the shelf anyway, just in case your local guy falls through.

 

Thanks I may need it. I am having trouble getting a return call myself.

 

Took the word right outta my mouth! If these have a history of cracking (as Bill said), I'd stock up on a few.

 

Yeah, well chock this one as history. I stopped by my friends place and he told me the manifold had a big crack in it. I guess I just didn't hear the exhaust leak over the sound of the main bearings. Coulda sworn it was ok, but it wasn't. Sorry.
The upside is that you didn't have to drive several hours to find that out.

 

A pal of mine that owns a huge Los Angeles truck wrecking yard THINKS he has a couple of 223 exhaust manifolds.

I spoke with him yesterday morning, I won't know until Monday.

 

Thanks gentelmen for all your help here.
I can see this is going to be a fun job.
I had a shop tell me that this pickup isnt worth fixing that it has to manny problums. He started off saying that the manifold was cracked then the king pins were froze up then the wiring was messed up and went on listing things. I laughed because the entire front end has just been rebuils with new king pins tie rod and ends also replaced the drag link. he also said that you couldnt find a turn signal switch for it because the truck was to old. what people will do to try and get somthing for nothing. He did offer to take it off my hands for junk price. what he dosnt know is i have a bunch of new friends that forgot more about ford truck then ford them selvs ever knew.

 

Henry,
You may want to consider repairing your cracked 223 exhaust manifold.
Depending on the degree of cracking, I've had success with having a cast-iron exhaust manifold repaired.
Find someone who is experienced in welding cast-iron.
Although expensive, a 99% nickel welding rod is usually best.

A major factor in a successful cast-iron weld repair is to preheat the part prior to welding and then to cool the part SLOWLY once the welding has been completed.

My repair experience:
The exhaust manifold I had repaired was off of a 4-cylinder Jeep engine. They too are notorious for cracking. Since replacement manifolds are available for this engine, I had many folks suggest I simply replace it rather than attempt to repair it only to have it crack again in a few days/weeks/months. However, I didn't want to spend that much $$, I didn't want to wait for it to be delivered (2 to 3 weeks) and I wanted to see if I could actually repair it. The manifold had two 2" long cracks and a piece of it was about to fall out. But I and my welder friend was willing to give it a try....

I carefully cleaned up the cracked areas with a hand grinder. Then using a propane torch, we gently preheated the entire manifold. Once it was "hot enough to make spit sizzle" my friend carefully welded the cracks, being careful not to put too much heat into any one location. Once the welding was completed, we quickly put 3" of clean, dry, room-temperature sand (we had two bags of store bought "play sand") in a 5-gallon pail, then set the manifold in on top of the sand and poured more sand around the manifold until it was completely surrounded/buried by at least 2" of sand. We left the manifold buried in the sand until the following day. We then carefully dumped out the sand and recovered the manifold. Using an air hose to remove any residual sand, I then sprayed the manifold down with a degreaser, then applied two coats of aluminum header (high heat) paint. I ran a tap into the attaching bolt holes in the cylinder head and a die over the attaching bolts to ensure the hole threads and the bolt threads were clean and straight, thus providing for a trouble-free assembly and accurate re-torque of the bolts. I re-mounted the manifold with a quality exhaust manifold gasket and carefully torqued it down according to the factory torque sequence outlined in my Haynes manual. I started the engine and let it idle for less than one minute. Then shut it off. I waited 10 minutes and then started the engine again and let it idle for 2 minutes and shut it down for another 20 minutes. This procedure is meant to allow the paint to be somewhat "baked" and will provide an initial heating of the manifold. Once cooled down again, I re-checked the attaching bolts torque (re-checking the torque is simply good practice after the initial heat cycle in an attempt to reduce the potential of blowing the gasket). I ran the engine again at an idle for 10 minutes and let it cool again. After an hour or so, I then took the vehicle for a 20 minute drive. The following day I rechecked the attaching bolts torque and then called it a done job.

The manifold was repaired last October. I plowed snow with the Jeep all winter lone. The Jeep is still running nice and quiet and the manifold repair is still holding just fine. Although the 99% nickel welding rod was $6/rod (the repair required 3 rods!) and including the 30/pack for my friend, the repair resulted in less expense than a replacement and it's still holding fine; I'm glad to have learned from it and to be able to share the experience.

BarnieTrk

 

Barnie thanks that sounds like a good choice if all else failes. I am an experianced welder and I do know how to weld cast but I dont have the equiptment. I can look around for one whe time allows. Again thanks.