Ok, there are lots of popping noise threads on our trucks, but this is a new one for me.

Last few times as I make a very sharp left or right turn in a parking lot, it seems the popping noise is coming from the front left side axle.

I checked the hubs and turned them either way and it does not make any difference, so turned them back to left or counter clockwise to put them in automatic (I think this is Automatic per manual/Ink is worn off and can't tell otherwise).

I pushed/pulled on front left tire and all is tight.

Removed tire and looked all parts over. Shook on the tie rod ends and other parts best I could and all seemed tight.

I am wondering if the Drive Axle U-Joint might be worn and I am not able to tell and it only does this when under severe stress in a turn?

Anyone replaced them before? The Ball Joints all are good, and would not think that the popping noise would be from them in a smooth turn at 1mph turning on asphalt.

Where do I go from here? Hubs turn freely, all seems ok until I make a sharp slow turn.

 

When you say you checked the hubs did you make sure that you could turn the u-joint behind the hub indicating that the hubs are truly unlocked? If so then it is probably something in the suspension as the hubs would be free spinning and the u-joints not turning.

 

U-joints. They get dry even though they are still good. You can turn in circles after spraying penetrating oil on them to free them up. Keep it up for about 20 minutes. Spray, drive, spray, etc.

 

Ok, so I can understand this....The U Joint looks like a Universal joint on the driveshaft, but this one is on the Drive Axle coming out of the pumpkin to the wheel.

Figured if I turn the hub selector, that it does not turn the axle since I am sitting in park and the axle would be locked and not allow me to turn it from the selector?

The selector turns very easily and is not binding, so assume from that, the UJoint is not turning? Guess I will have to have my Son in Law crawl under and watch while I turn it. I don't want dirt on me...lol.

I will definately get some spray.

Just fixed my Focus that was creaking like crazy in the front end which was a suspension issue. The drop link was dry and not able to use a grease gun, I peeled open the rubber and shot some lube in there and it got quiet immediately. Problem fixed and Ford wanted over $100 just to assess the problem for something they already knew about.

This sound I am having sounds like a U Joint popping to me. As the tire turns, it goes pop.......pop......pop....etc.

 

Anyone else have thoughts? Gonna look more into this tomorrow, pull the wheel and check stuff again and begin to lube the joints.

Once other item of curiosity is in looking for replacement parts from any of the autoparts stores, I am not finding anything replacable for the axle parts? Not sure if we call the Excursion 4X4 axle joint a CV joint or what, but nothing shows up that is replaceable?

Also, if I understand right, If I jack up the wheels, turn the actuator one way, the axle should be engaged and when I turn the wheel, it will turn the axle....that would be the lock position. The other way in automatic would not engage the axle and therefore is free spinning. I need to check that to make sure which way it automatic and write it down in my book since the marks are no longer present. I think Automatic setting is turned full counter clockwise. Is this a correct assumption?

 

Ok, I spend a few hours this afternoon digging and searching and educating myself.
So the Dana 50 axle is setup with UJoints that are replacable. Found a ford parts online web site that shows them for approx. $35 each and also found some on Oreilly's web site.
The job to replace them is a "JOB" it appears when I found a detailed writeup on the PSD Superduty link that shows how to replace the Ball Joints. Exellent photos and writeup.
So will take a look more this weekend, but seems like to me, if the U Joints are sealed, there will be no way to lube them, but I will give it a try anyhow.
Fingers crossed as I don't want to spend the $$ at the moment for a major refresh of seals, hub, Ball Joints, etc while I am in that deep. Assuming that something might be worn and need replacing.

 

Read my post about the spray, I didn't just make it up. If your hub dial letters are worn off remember this ; righty tighty, lefty loosy or left off, right on. (Clockwise is locked) Do a search in here and you can read for hours about your problem.

 

I agree with trying to lube up the u-joints as I did this last winter when mine started squeaking a bit. It worked!! But, I think you need to determine if his hubs are staying locked in when the dials are in the "auto" or unlocked position. This can be easily determined by ensuring that both dials are turned counterclockwise and reaching behind the wheel and turning the u-joints. If they turn you are free wheeling the hubs. If you is still getting this popping sound when the hubs are free wheeling then the problem is not the u-joints.

 

Good Point rlh68050, will try that out on the hand turning. Thought I had to jack it up for that test.

Exv10, I did a lot of searching and was not able to find anything other than this thread that talked specifically about the Ujoints. Most of them led into ball joints or other things like drop links, etc that were not the same sound as what I am getting.

Will be interesting that if the Ujoints turn freely and I still get that popping sound, what the heck could that be? Bearings? I sure hope not!

I was not able to get into it last weekend like I had hoped, so will do so this weekend.

 

Ok, so I took the wheels off today and found the following:
When hub is turned to the far left, the Ujoint still turns. Turned to right, still turns, so since the right way to be in automatic is to the left, I turned the hub left, right, left, right several times and then hard to the left and finally the axle dis-engaged and was free spinning.
Went to the passenger side, same thing, but when it started to disengage, as I rotated the wheel, you could hear the gears trying to stay meshed and slightly grinding, so continued the rotating left/right back and forth and it finally dis-engaged.

So, this is likely why some of my MPG have been a couple less than I used to get due to axle drag.

Lubed up the UJoints and in the driveway and street, the popping seemed to be less, but I did not have a real good amount of room to really retest the popping.

Will have to take out to a shopping center and retest for the popping. I used the PB Blaster to lube, so maybe after soaking for a while it will help.

Will let you know if the popping goes away next time I am out for a spin.

Question now is the hubs. Why would they not dis-engage when rotating to the auto position? Is it perhaps the internals of the hub are dry or dirty and sticking?

I assume at this point, I need to perform the "Guzzle's Autolock Hub" lubrication process and get the Oring kit and clean the internal parts, relube and reassemble with the new Orings and hope that will cure the sticking or staying locked issue. Ya think?

 

Take the hubs apart, clean, and lightly lube (easy), then proceed. Auto is counter clockwise. Every time you shut engine off the vacuum will attempt to disengage the hubs again. The joints just sound worn because they are dry. (crackling). They rarely wear out but they do get dry.

 

Sounds like maybe the dryness inside the hubs is causing the sticking. I assume that spring in there is what disengages the gears, but if the gears are sticky, that is maybe why the hubs were not disengaging.

Will put this maintenance item on my list to do very soon.

 

Dryness can cause them to bind and crackle. Vacuum is what releases your hubs and they get a shot of vacuum every time you shut down also.

 

Sway bar ends!! Mine were in stock position after lift so I finally got around to dropping them down, no more popping when turning or going over bumps and curves now.

 

My sound seems to be coming directly from the front wheels when I walk next to the truck while my wife it moving forward in a tight circle. I replaced my sway bar end links about a year ago due to them making a popping sound that seemed it was coming from under the floor and that resolved that issue.

Just got my ORing kit for the autolock Hub maintenance procedure. Had to drive 60 miles to get the only one in stock in any of the Ford Dealers within a 100 mile radius in order to do it this weekend!

Took the day off just to do this and going to pull her in the garage now and get it started. Can't believe how hard it was to find the White Lithium Grease to use for the parts of the job where it is called for. None of the auto parts stores had any. A guy told me to go to Sears since they have it for the Garage Doors and believe it or not, they had it! Only in small tubes, but should be enough for this job!

My fingers are crossed!