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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Alignment Help

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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #1  
enikolich's Avatar
enikolich
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From: Houston, TX
Alignment Help

Hi all. I have a 1966 F250 2 wheel drive that I've had for a couple of years. The steering is very very sloppy so I read through the archives and came up with a plan. I got new steering components to start with. Outer and inner tie rods and drag link. (Hope I'm using the right terms. I've heard thenm referred to differently). King pins seemed to have some movement, but a good greasing seemed to take most of that out. Radius arm bushings look like they were replaced by previous owner, so I'm leaving those for now.

When I got my new components, I was very careful to measure everything and write it all down. I measured the overall length of the inner/outer tie rod assembly. I measured the length of the exposed threads from the adjusting collar out. I was very proud of myself. Until I put it all together.

What I have is one wheel straight and one about an inch toe in. So I started playing with the inner/out tie rods to bring the wheels parallel. My plan was to then set 1/8" toe in and then take for a proper alignment. It just seems no matter what I do, I can not get those wheels parallel by adjusting the tie rod ends. I've pulled apart, remeasured. Checked that the new parts are the same length. I'm going nuts.

Any advise? What the heck did I do wrong. Before I took apart, I set the wheels as straight as I could and do not think the steering wheel was moved, but it is possible with three kids. I few months ago, I did tighten the preload on the steering box. Though I would mention in case it has any effect on my issue.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm really starting to think I'm nuts!
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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camperspecial65
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From: seattle
If you bought new adjusting sleeves as well they could be slightly different lengths...also, since you had sloppy steering to begin with it could have been adjusted to where it was at initial disassembly to compensate for the slop to make it driveable...adjust it until the correct toe is obtained...or at least to where you can drive it to a shop and have it checked on the rack...make sure tires are at correct pressures, good tread, properly adjusted wheel bearings, and that the wheels are flush against the drum ...never hurts to double check...all of these things alone or in combo can affect the readings...also bent wheels and bad shocks.


- cs65
 
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Old May 12, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #3  
enikolich's Avatar
enikolich
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From: Houston, TX
Alignment Help

Thanks for the reply. The adjusting collar is the original. I believe the new drag link has a sharper bend in it than the original. That or someone bent the original to compensate for something else. I am measuring from drum to drum for my measurements.

Am I correct in assuming that when the passenger wheel is straight, the inner and out tie rod gets adjusted close enough to install and then final adjustment is made by turning the sleeve. Turning the sleeve adjusts toe in/toe out only, correct?
 
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Old May 12, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #4  
camperspecial65's Avatar
camperspecial65
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From: seattle
The way to properly check the toe is using the wheel clamp on tool and running a line from side to side front and rear of the wheels. The toe is checked with the load on the wheels.
Go and look at a front end shop and ask what they use to do it so you can get a visual of how its done with the wheel tool.
The car/truck is on a big disc with all kinds of measurment marks, etc on it that are basicly like a lazy susan...those round serving trays that spin...so that theres no resistance in the tires/linkage affecting the readings.



- cs65
 
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Old May 13, 2010 | 11:49 AM
  #5  
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enikolich
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From: Houston, TX
Alignment Help

Thanks again for the reply - its much appreciated. After closer examination, it looked like someone pounded out one of the bends in the drag link. I'm not sure why. It could be that the adjusting sleeve was too long. Who knows with a truck that old.

But anyway, I ended up cutting the cleeve by about a half inch on each side. That allowed me to put my inner/outer tie rod assembly on with the wheels "eyeball straight". Tonight I will put the wheels back on and measure for my initial alignment.

I do have one stupid question though. When I rotate the sleeve on the inner/outer tie rod assembly, only the drivers side wheel moves. This is with the truck up on jack stands. When the truck is on the ground (under load) will both wheels move toe in/toe out when I adjust, or only the drivers side? Just want to know what to expect when I start.
 
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