Ok this probably does not belong here, and I couldn't find what I was looking for when I searched the old posts.

I've been welding for several years now and just seem to be getting worse and worse at it. The majority of the time it seems only about a quarter of my welds hold like they are supposed to and usually on the same piece of new metal it either does not penitrate or it blows through. And the last few things I've welded with or without gas it just pops alot, and yes I cleaned all the paint and stuff off and cleaned the tip and tried new tips.

I have a Hobart welder and have the voltage set at 2 and the wire feed set at 40-50 these settings seem to give me the least headaches.

Also does anyone know of any kind of welding light? I tried using lighter shields and I get a headache, and I use one that is dark enough that it don't bother me and then I can't see what I'm doing.

I'm getting quite frusterated. If I had the money I'd take more welding classes, or pay someone else to do it. I don't know if it's the welder or me that is causing the problem. I'm about ready to go back to riveting everything back together. Thanks for any advice.

 

I've had good luck with my hobart since I got the gas bottle on it. Wire size matters as to your wire speed, what wire are you using? What are you welding?. IS it acting like its not getting gas? You should be able to put it on purge and listen to and feel the gas coming out. I always set the heat to 3 or 4 unless I'm welding really thin stuff.

 

Youtube has some really good instructional videos

 

I'm using .023 inch gas shieled mig wire. I'm welding sheet metal. I always use panels I cut off of other cars as the replacement metal is too thin. Not that it's any better but the metal I'm using now is the roof off a early 90's VW golf. I do have gas and the shielded wire and it still does the popping, unless there is some chemical or something embedded in the golf metal?? I ground all the paint and stuff off of it. I have my welder set on 2 as 3 blows through and 1 is too cold. I'm thinking of saving my money and getting a different welder. I really like this one: Miller - MIG Welding - Millermatic 140 with Auto-Set

 

I don't know how to weld either. A few years ago my dad bought a MIG welder and self taught himself. he's by no means an expert welder but he's good enough to get the jobs done successfully. When he first got it it came with a mask that had a very dark lens. Couldn't see what he was working on until it started to weld and by then it was too late. So he looked online and picked up one of those helmets with the lens that automatically dims when you start welding. it's pretty sweet and has dramatically improved his welds.

as for getting better at the art of welding i'd suggest the youtube videos or perhaps asking a friend for some tips you know that welds and can show you in person. or maybe your local trade school offers a course?

let me know when you get good. The rear of my frame is rotting out around where the bumper connects to the frame and I'm gonna need to get it welded up soon!

 

Fepower, here's my two cents. Thin sheet metal should be welded using lots of short "tacs" to minimize distortion from heat. I set my HH140 heat at 2 and 20 wire speed for the thin stuff; practice makes perfect. The sticker inside of the door is a good starting point. I use .030 wire but I understand many guys run the thinner stuff with good results. What shielding gas are you using, I use C25. Is your polarity correct? Also MIG welding is an indoor welding process, if welding outdoors the wind will blow the shielding gas away from the puddle and cause ugliness. You should check out the Hobart Weld Talk Message Board for assistance. WeldingWeb is another good one. As for lighting, I use those clip on lamps but I bet a pair of 500W incandescent lamps would help greatly. Do you have an auto darkening hood? If not, find a 20% off coupon and head to HF for a $35 hood, you will be happy you did. My non-auto mask is just taking up space in the shop these days.

 

I've taken 3 different welding classes before, they didn't seem to help.

I always do the tac method when welding sheetmetal, that's something I learned right away.

If I ever get money I'll try the auto darkening mask, looks like you can get them for around 50 bucks.

I'm trying to finish my car with what I got since I'm broke. When I run out of gas and wire, I hope I will be done by then or I'm going to use filler and seam sealer to hold the last panel on.

Part of my problems is probably frusteration, so I'm going to take a break from it tomorrow. I got the panel all cut and fit is ok, just trying to seal up the holes in the rear so I don't get exhaust fumes in my car.

I plan to do a complete correct restore on the car eventually. Just want to get it drivable again.

I try to follow the sticker inside the welder, but it does not seem to be right, or I just can't read. I've had a couple of friends that are pretty good welders and they had troubles with my welder. They showed me a couple of things, can't always do it the best way when working in tight spaces though. I've been welding for awhile and figured I'd have enough practice in, guess we can't be good at everything. If only I could find someone that was really good at sheetmetal welding that would be super, I don't mind making panels and fitting them and grinding down welds. That's the only thing I don't exactly enjoy about bodywork is the welding, the rest isn't so bad. Getting pretty good at painting though.

I guess I'll try some brighter bulbs in my clamp on lamps then, I learned not to use flouresent bulbs, they explode, very exciting.

I do weld inside, well as much inside as I can get my shed is in pretty sad shape, very ventulated.

Thanks for the help.

 

I noticed problems with my Hobart 140 when I switched to a large spool of wire instead of the smaller spools. I have found that the machine's wire driving wheels need to be super clean and properly adjusted in order to feed the wire correctly. I have also noted that my machine is fussy about having the gun's umbilical nice and straight with few coils or kinks in order to maintain a consistant weld.

Good Luck!

 

I'm guessing you haven't tried running aluminum wire in it yet...

 

If I could weld, I'd be a good looking welder, were I good looking.............

Sometimes I can lay down a beautiful bead, and then immediately follow it with the ugliest bead ever. Either kind may or may not hold worth a hoot.

 

I used to have a Craftman welder that wouldn't run worth a crap on an extension cord, even a good heavy one. If it was plugged straight into the wall, it ran fine, any kind of cord, and it was crap. I was working as a welder at the time, so it wasn't for lack of skill or practice... The Lincoln I have now runs fine on a good extension cord, not silly enough to try it on a crappy small cord. I also second the liner issues in the lead, they can cause plenty of trouble. The lead needs to be kept as straight a s possible, no sharp bends. Also be aware that if you don't use the welder often, and you have much for humidity, you can get rust on the wire which causes trouble too. I have had tips that get either too worn, not contacting well, or have a piece of spatter stuck in them that make the feeder speed vary.

 

i'm sure you already do this, but when i am fustrated i sometimes forget to clean my grounds. both the clamp and the ground should be very clean.

 

I'd bet its the feed wheels spinning, they must be properly set and sized for the wire in use. .023 wire requires .023 feed wheels, most feed wheel are dual sized, one edge is one size, the other edge is another size.

This also applies to the lead liner, if you have .035 liner and using .023 wire it will not feed smoothly.

Also, Any dirt, kinks, smashes, sharp bends etc... in the lead cause it not to feed smoothly.

All these things must be resolved before even trying to weld, you will never get the feed and speed correctly if the wire is not feeding smooth and properly.

When you do get it feeding correctly and the feed and heat are correct welding will sound like bacon frying in a pan ... A nice even buzz, no crackling, popping.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The ground is on clean metal. There are no kinks in the feed line and the welder is setup correctly for the .023 wire. And it feeds correctly and smoothly. I use a heavy gauge extension cord and have no issues with lack of electricity. I had a friend try my welder and he had troubles as well and now I'm out of gas and I need to finish this, I guess just grin and bear it and use what wire I have left. Guess I need a different welder. When it does not pop I do get nice welds, so it has to be the welder not me.

I still wonder if there is something embeded in the metal for the VW golf roof panel because on clean metal it still pops like if you have paint or rust on it, which it does not.

 

Could be some weird alloy in the VW roof, did you try a different piece of metal? You can also play with how far you're holding the tip away and maybe turn the wire speed down. When I do patchpanels (I've used hoods and door panels from wrecked cars) I just spot weld it with the heat turned up where if you were to hold the trigger long enough it will burn through. A spot weld every couple inches and some seam sealer is plenty strong and weatherproof