2006 F250 no AC
#31
06-22-2010, 11:26 PM
Yes it can. I would recommend replacing the compressor and condenser though.
#32
06-23-2010, 06:19 AM
I found this site from searching the net due to the excessive high side pressure. This place has a ton of information... thanks for the help.
Where does the dessicant come from, the compressor or the accumulator? Does anyone know what causes it in the first place? I found this kit, has anyone tried it? The company seems to have a good reputation on e-bay.
FORD SUPER DUTY 6.0L AC REPAIR KIT NEW COMPRESSOR 03-07: eBay Motors (item 290441470892 end time Jul-02-10 13:32:31 PDT)
Where does the dessicant come from, the compressor or the accumulator? Does anyone know what causes it in the first place? I found this kit, has anyone tried it? The company seems to have a good reputation on e-bay.
FORD SUPER DUTY 6.0L AC REPAIR KIT NEW COMPRESSOR 03-07: eBay Motors (item 290441470892 end time Jul-02-10 13:32:31 PDT)
#33
06-23-2010, 06:48 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didn't see that the repair kit said anything about who makes the parts. I went with Motorcraft parts because I thought they would be better. I plan on having the truck for many more years. Are motorcraft parts better???
I feel the repair comes down on how much you can afford, and how much free time you have on your hands. I don't have a lot of free time available to me (kids, and 2 jobs), so when I work on my truck I usually spend a little extra so I don't have to work on the same part in a year or two.
Tips for the repair.
Use a ratchet strap to pull down the belt tensioner. If not you will spend 2 hours pulling the rad schroud, fan and air deflector.
I would replace the condensor, the dealer told me it would cost $140 to flush it, new one $180. They say it is very difficult to flush.
As soon as you get it apart flush what you want to flush so it has time to dry.
Check out the following places for parts. RockAuto, and partsguyed.com
Overall the repair isn't very difficult, just takes some time.
Sorry for spelling, didn't have time to spell check.
Good luck.
I feel the repair comes down on how much you can afford, and how much free time you have on your hands. I don't have a lot of free time available to me (kids, and 2 jobs), so when I work on my truck I usually spend a little extra so I don't have to work on the same part in a year or two.
Tips for the repair.
Use a ratchet strap to pull down the belt tensioner. If not you will spend 2 hours pulling the rad schroud, fan and air deflector.
I would replace the condensor, the dealer told me it would cost $140 to flush it, new one $180. They say it is very difficult to flush.
As soon as you get it apart flush what you want to flush so it has time to dry.
Check out the following places for parts. RockAuto, and partsguyed.com
Overall the repair isn't very difficult, just takes some time.
Sorry for spelling, didn't have time to spell check.
Good luck.
#34
06-23-2010, 07:10 AM
I found this site from searching the net due to the excessive high side pressure. This place has a ton of information... thanks for the help.
Where does the dessicant come from, the compressor or the accumulator? Does anyone know what causes it in the first place? I found this kit, has anyone tried it? The company seems to have a good reputation on e-bay.
FORD SUPER DUTY 6.0L AC REPAIR KIT NEW COMPRESSOR 03-07: eBay Motors (item 290441470892 end time Jul-02-10 13:32:31 PDT)
Where does the dessicant come from, the compressor or the accumulator? Does anyone know what causes it in the first place? I found this kit, has anyone tried it? The company seems to have a good reputation on e-bay.
FORD SUPER DUTY 6.0L AC REPAIR KIT NEW COMPRESSOR 03-07: eBay Motors (item 290441470892 end time Jul-02-10 13:32:31 PDT)
That kit has everything you need for the repair except the condenser and should work fine.
The only caveat is the unknown manufacturer and quality of the parts, there a lot of really junk car parts to be found on Ebay. Is this one of them...who knows?
Due to the internal design of your condenser it can't be reliably flushed, even with professional equipment. You should really consider replacing it along with the compressor and other parts. You "might" get away with reusing it, but you "might" end up destroying the new compressor if debris from the condenser blocks the orifice again.
EDit: I see PAf250 posted nearly the same info as I was typing.
#35
06-23-2010, 07:23 AM
Thanks for the advice. I called their 800 number and spoke to a rep quickly yesterday. This is their own brand. The Motorcraft compressor could be substituted for $30 more but it would still have their brand accumulator. Nowhere else lists an o-ring kit, what do I look for if I buy individual parts. I realize the orifice tube and oil are easy to find and inexpensive.
Is a Visteon condensor good and/or the same as Motorcraft?
I'm with you guys regarding buying good parts.... guess I'm not impressed with the issues Ford has had with the original Motorcraft. Maybe they have improved. The TSB says to use the revised accumulator.
Is a Visteon condensor good and/or the same as Motorcraft?
I'm with you guys regarding buying good parts.... guess I'm not impressed with the issues Ford has had with the original Motorcraft. Maybe they have improved. The TSB says to use the revised accumulator.
#36
06-23-2010, 10:05 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't do this on a regular basis like some of these guys do. Although I did a lot of web searching before I fixed my truck. So I really don't know if the Visteon brand is good or not hopefully someone else will know about it. RockAuto has an easy way to search out parts by vehicle. I got all the right parts using their search. You may also want to check that partsguyed, that site may have better prices, I didn't know about them when I was ordering.
<O
</O
I think Ford should recall them for the problem. I discussed this with my dealer, but they didn't really seem to have much compassion. I read they fixed the problems with the accumulator, so if you get a new one it should be good. I know I am going to really be pissed if I have another problem.
<O></O>
<O>Parts Needed: </O>
<O></O>
Compressor- some are rebuilt, some don't come with the clutch on the front. I put a new complete (compressor and clutch) on my truck because it had about 60,000 miles on it. I figured by that time there would have been some wear to the clutch.
<O></O>
<O>Accumulator, A/C flush(for the evaproator and lines) and Condensor </O>
<O></O>
I went to the dealer to get the O-rings. You will need 2 for the condenser lines, 3 for the hookup to the evaporator, and 1 for the accumulator. I am pretty sure that is it. They have a parts diagram, ask them if it shows any other O-rings. I got an extra one of each, because I knew if I didn't I would have dropped one and wouldn't be able to find it and would have had to use an old one. Ford doesn't make an O-ring kit
Read the tips Isrx101 had for me, he really helped me a lot.
Don't stress, getting the right parts really isn't too difficult for this job.
<O
</OI think Ford should recall them for the problem. I discussed this with my dealer, but they didn't really seem to have much compassion. I read they fixed the problems with the accumulator, so if you get a new one it should be good. I know I am going to really be pissed if I have another problem.
<O
></O> <O
>Parts Needed: </O><O
></O> Compressor- some are rebuilt, some don't come with the clutch on the front. I put a new complete (compressor and clutch) on my truck because it had about 60,000 miles on it. I figured by that time there would have been some wear to the clutch.
<O
></O> <O
>Accumulator, A/C flush(for the evaproator and lines) and Condensor </O><O
></O> I went to the dealer to get the O-rings. You will need 2 for the condenser lines, 3 for the hookup to the evaporator, and 1 for the accumulator. I am pretty sure that is it. They have a parts diagram, ask them if it shows any other O-rings. I got an extra one of each, because I knew if I didn't I would have dropped one and wouldn't be able to find it and would have had to use an old one. Ford doesn't make an O-ring kit
Read the tips Isrx101 had for me, he really helped me a lot.
Don't stress, getting the right parts really isn't too difficult for this job.
#37
06-23-2010, 05:38 PM
PAf250:
I spoke to the dealer too... he didn't remember anyone ever bringing in a vehicle with the same problem.
Visteon is named on a sticker under the hood, so I assumed some of the components were made by them.
Did you revove the inside fender wall to get to the compressor? Are the o-rings a special size or spec?
I spoke to the dealer too... he didn't remember anyone ever bringing in a vehicle with the same problem.
Visteon is named on a sticker under the hood, so I assumed some of the components were made by them.
Did you revove the inside fender wall to get to the compressor? Are the o-rings a special size or spec?
#38
06-23-2010, 07:59 PM
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will have to pull the fender well. That really is almost half of the job. The compresser will come out over the frame after you remove the three bolts holding it. You do sort of have to turn it just right, but it will come out.
Here are the part numbers for the parts I used
All these came from Rockauto
129YCC179- Compressor
YJ473- Condenser
YG346- Orifice Tube
YF3412- Receiver Drier/ Accumulator
Here are the O-ring part numbers from the dealer
1W1Z*19E889*JB- O-ring for supply line to evaporator (where the orifice tube is)
1W1Z*19E889*DC- O-ring for top of accumulator
1W1Z*19E889*BB- O-ring for condenser
Here are the part numbers for the parts I used
All these came from Rockauto
129YCC179- Compressor
YJ473- Condenser
YG346- Orifice Tube
YF3412- Receiver Drier/ Accumulator
Here are the O-ring part numbers from the dealer
1W1Z*19E889*JB- O-ring for supply line to evaporator (where the orifice tube is)
1W1Z*19E889*DC- O-ring for top of accumulator
1W1Z*19E889*BB- O-ring for condenser
#39
06-23-2010, 09:15 PM
I'm pretty sure Visteon makes Motorcraft condensers, so you're good either way. Your main quality concern is the compressor, but if you stick with a new one you should be ok, The quality of reman compressors is all over the map, from very good to total junk.
I missed that the kit you showed had a brand new compressor. That still seems almost too cheap, but I'd be tempted to give it a try. As long as they stand by the warranty, I'd say go for it.
The rest of the parts can be safely purchased just about anywhere. You should be able to get an oring kit from Auto Zone, Advance, etc. It will have all of the orings you need and then some. The only AC part I don't buy from the chains is the compressor, due to past issues. I've never has issues with accumulators, condensers, etc.
Oh, It looks like the kit comes with the orings, too.
I missed that the kit you showed had a brand new compressor. That still seems almost too cheap, but I'd be tempted to give it a try. As long as they stand by the warranty, I'd say go for it.
The rest of the parts can be safely purchased just about anywhere. You should be able to get an oring kit from Auto Zone, Advance, etc. It will have all of the orings you need and then some. The only AC part I don't buy from the chains is the compressor, due to past issues. I've never has issues with accumulators, condensers, etc.
Oh, It looks like the kit comes with the orings, too.
#40
06-24-2010, 08:18 AM
I'm pretty sure Visteon makes Motorcraft condensers, so you're good either way. Your main quality concern is the compressor, but if you stick with a new one you should be ok, The quality of reman compressors is all over the map, from very good to total junk.
I missed that the kit you showed had a brand new compressor. That still seems almost too cheap, but I'd be tempted to give it a try. As long as they stand by the warranty, I'd say go for it.
The rest of the parts can be safely purchased just about anywhere. You should be able to get an oring kit from Auto Zone, Advance, etc. It will have all of the orings you need and then some. The only AC part I don't buy from the chains is the compressor, due to past issues. I've never has issues with accumulators, condensers, etc.
Oh, It looks like the kit comes with the orings, too.
I missed that the kit you showed had a brand new compressor. That still seems almost too cheap, but I'd be tempted to give it a try. As long as they stand by the warranty, I'd say go for it.
The rest of the parts can be safely purchased just about anywhere. You should be able to get an oring kit from Auto Zone, Advance, etc. It will have all of the orings you need and then some. The only AC part I don't buy from the chains is the compressor, due to past issues. I've never has issues with accumulators, condensers, etc.
Oh, It looks like the kit comes with the orings, too.
They have their own site AC Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator and More A/C Parts at Wholesale Prices - Discount AC Parts and seem to have a good reputation from what I can find on ebay and elsewher on the net. When I spoke to a rep, he said the warranty provides next day shipment for 1 year. Like I mentioned, they will substitute the Motorcraft compressor for an additional $30.
I found the motorcract YCC163 compressor for $182, but would still have to locate the other stuff since they didn't have anything else.
I see that some places offer an 'adjusting orifice tube'... what is the difference?
Thanks guys. I never expected to find such a wide range of prices all over the net.
#41
06-24-2010, 05:43 PM
After looking closer at the truck, at least some of the lines (if not all) are made by Visteon. I can pick that up reasonable at Advance and have a discount code good till the end of the month.
......
I see that some places offer an 'adjusting orifice tube'... what is the difference?
Thanks guys. I never expected to find such a wide range of prices all over the net.
......
I see that some places offer an 'adjusting orifice tube'... what is the difference?
Thanks guys. I never expected to find such a wide range of prices all over the net.
#42
06-25-2010, 08:05 AM
#43
10-01-2011, 05:51 PM
Update,
On Wednesday I ordered the parts ( new compressor w/clutch, accumulator, condensor, O-ring kit, and 2 orifice tubes). $550 at Rockauto.com. I may be foolish for ordering Motorcraft parts, but I just didn't trust replacing everything with possibaly cheap Chinese stuff. No offense to Chinese people. As I said I am going to have the truck for a while so I hope they hold up better. They should be here saturday. I did have a couple more questions.
I do have access to an air compressor. I am pretty sure I have access to a vacuum pump, friend of a friend.
I found the sticker with the amouts of oil(9oz) and 134a(2.82 lbs) to use.
The sticker has some long Motorcraft oil # on it. My local auto parts store has Interdynamics R-134a PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil - 8 oz. Use that or should I go get the Motorcraft oil?
Is PAG 46 the correct fluid? I see they make PAG 100 and 150. Just double checking.
Does 2.82 lbs of 134a equal 45.76 oz? (2.82*16= 45.76) just double checking there is no metric, or special conversion for refrigerant. Since the cans are 12 oz cans.
Fill with straight 134a. No oil added, leak sealer etc. Correct.
Open and install the accumulator last and vacuum down right away. Is this to limit the amount of moisture absorbed by the desiccant material inside the accumulator?
Thanks again for all the help.
On Wednesday I ordered the parts ( new compressor w/clutch, accumulator, condensor, O-ring kit, and 2 orifice tubes). $550 at Rockauto.com. I may be foolish for ordering Motorcraft parts, but I just didn't trust replacing everything with possibaly cheap Chinese stuff. No offense to Chinese people. As I said I am going to have the truck for a while so I hope they hold up better. They should be here saturday. I did have a couple more questions.
I do have access to an air compressor. I am pretty sure I have access to a vacuum pump, friend of a friend.
I found the sticker with the amouts of oil(9oz) and 134a(2.82 lbs) to use.
The sticker has some long Motorcraft oil # on it. My local auto parts store has Interdynamics R-134a PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil - 8 oz. Use that or should I go get the Motorcraft oil?
Is PAG 46 the correct fluid? I see they make PAG 100 and 150. Just double checking.
Does 2.82 lbs of 134a equal 45.76 oz? (2.82*16= 45.76) just double checking there is no metric, or special conversion for refrigerant. Since the cans are 12 oz cans.
Fill with straight 134a. No oil added, leak sealer etc. Correct.
Open and install the accumulator last and vacuum down right away. Is this to limit the amount of moisture absorbed by the desiccant material inside the accumulator?
Thanks again for all the help.
#44
10-01-2011, 05:54 PM
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Laggy
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
06-01-2017 10:01 AM
rodneycrow
Cooling, Heating, Ventilation & A/C
2
05-11-2016 12:10 AM
