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Old May 3, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #1  
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From: lowell oregon
add dual wheels

want to put duals wheels on my 250 is this just going to be a bolt on thing or are they different rear ends
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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the dually rear end is 4" wider overall. 2" on each side. Brakes are different also.

Not sure if the dually wheels would fit on a SRW axle. I swapped from dually to SRW and the axles bolt right in.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Dually wheels will fit the axle bolt pattern, but will not clear the springs on a SRW truck.

If you swap axles, be careful.
One of the guys down in the IDI forum just drove 400 miles to pick up what turned out to be a cab and chassis axle, which would not work for him.

A cab and chassis frame is 34" wide and can run dual wheels.
But a pickup frame is 37.5" wide, so the cab and chassis axle under a pickup will still not let you run dual wheels.

Measure back plate to back plate, the cab and chassis axle is the same width as a SRW axle, but the spring perches are 3.5" closer together.

A true dually axle will be 4" wider and the spring perches will be the same width as you SRW axle.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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I've been wondering about doing this on my f350 also. It's a 4x4 and the front end is wider than the rear. I think all of them are like that. I hate it. The roads in Texas are rutted beyond belief and it's a bear to drive in a straight line sometimes. My alignment is perfect and so is the front end. Been wondering if switching to a dual rear end would fix that? It would probably give me a little extra margin of safety with this camper and my horse trailer on too.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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my deal is 7800lb on the rear tires with my camper on dont know if a 10 ply tire would work as well as dualls
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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ya just went an measured an its 37.5 will have to go a different rout thanks
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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You must have one of the new Lance campers. Those darn things are heavy.
I am at 7000 pounds on the rear axle with this one and the horse trailer loaded. It's a little over the tires rating but not much. I have 265/75 michelins and they are rated at 3400 pounds each. I believe the max you can get on 16 inch tires requires a 315 size tire and it's a 3750 pound rating. That tire is just too big though. Duels would make more sense.
OR, you could do the 19.5 inch wheel and tire swap. I think the company is called Ricson that does it. I've been considering that too.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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Oh, that old 10 ply thing doesn't really mean anything anymore. It's a bias ply tire classification. With LT radials go by the load range on them. You definitely need load range E tires for the 16 inch.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:19 PM
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its an artic fox with a slide out just what us old people need to get up in the brush, but wikk be on the phone tommrow to the tire store on will post what i find out
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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The Cab and Chassis axle is the narrowest. It's 4" narrower than the SRW axle. The regular dually axle is 4" wider than the SRW axle.

Kinda strange. I kinda wish I had a cab and chassis truck...
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Steve a SRW axle is about 53.75" from back plate to back plate.
The cab and chassis axle is the same.

However a true dually axle is 57.75" from back plate to back plate and exactly what you need since they also had a 37.5" frame width.

If you run the VIN, cab and chassis trucks left the factory as incomplete vehicles, no bed installed.

Dually trucks left the factory with a pickup bed installed.

And the extra stability from dual wheels would be a nice thing.


The other route you could go would be adapters that move the wheels out so the tires clear the springs.
But given the cost of spacers, a dually axle swap will probably be cheaper.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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Also the cab and chassis trucks were F-Superduty, not F350 or F250
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
Also the cab and chassis trucks were F-Superduty, not F350 or F250
Not true, my sled puller was a cab and chassis. However, on Rockee, it was a single rear wheel converted to dually. And they had put 4" spacers on each side to make the duals work. I swapped in a dually axle and got rid of them. So if you wanna put duals on a SRW, you'll need 4" spacers. And you will have to go to somewhere like Arrowcraft to get them. And they are hella expensive. It's much cheaper and easier to just find a dually rear axle and bed. And most likely cheaper. Just my .02
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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so i need to swap just the axels or the hole rear end
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #15  
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Steve, I don't want to be mean man, but if you are asking that question, this project may be out of your reach right now.

"Swap just the axles"..............There are AXLE SHAFTS inside of the rear axle, or inside of the "rear end"......No, you can not just change the AXLE SHAFTS and make it work.

You must change the entire REAR AXLE HOUSING ,or "rear end".

Or, you must run 4" wide spacers on EACH SIDE of your standard SINGLE REAR WHEEL AXLE.

Now, thus far, I am only refering to the REAR AXLE. To make the front axle dually, you will also need 4" spacers on each side, or find the 4x4 dually hub and rotor combination. There is no need to change out the front axle as the dually and SRW are the same except the hub/rotor combo.

I hope that makes sense man, and really I'm not trying to get down on you. I capitalized the things that need to be payed attention to, and is not meant to be viewed as yelling. Everyone needs to start somewhere, and this is the place. And if you have more specific questions, feel free to pm me, or just ask away.
 
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