I got a 130amp from a junk yard taurus. I've installed it on my 92 F250 IDI. Two questions, my old alt had yellow black power wire going back to starter solinoide, and a orange black going who know where. I don't see a red green hot wire. I connected the 3g red green to the orange black, but I don't think that's right because I'm getting a alt light in the cab, and batteries don't seem to be charging(yes I ran new 4ga and 175amp fuse)

Second question, my belt to vac pump is too long now, is this normal, what size do I go with now?

Thanks

 

i would have went with this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...10109-P_2002_R


here is a thread for upgrading https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...r-upgrade.html there are alot more than that tho

 

thanks, but I have a v belt setup, and no mention of my wiring problem in any of the many threads I read.

 

Ford Fuel Injection 3G Install Tech what model was the taurus?

 

Yup, thats the artical I used. atl was from late model v6 tarus.

My point is does my idi have a red green hot wire, or is the orange black suppose to be hot?
And no word on the belt.
I need to get ahold of a decent volt meter.

 

Wait, that '92 should already be a serpentine belt with a pedestal-mount 3G alternator from the factory - '91 was the last year for the V-belt and pivot-mount alternator for those engines...

In any case - remove your factory voltage regulator, cut the green/red wire off its plug and then remove all of the VR wiring, also lose that wimpy charge cable from the alternator to the big relay on the fender. Really, you should have a loose green/red wire with a bare end, and a 3G alternator with its three-wire connector plugged in it. Now, grab some wire (preferably green in color), and extend that loose red/green wire from the truck harness to the green/red wire hanging loose from the alternator's three-wire connector - you just gave your alternator a key-on power to turn it on when the ignition is on. Now, that yellow wire from the three-wire connector, add a ring terminal to its loose end and slide that onto the output charge stud of the alternator - this is your voltage sensing wire, and no there's no need for it to go all the way to the battery. The white wire from the three-wire connector should still be plugged into the side of the alternator, leave it there. Finally, take a nice fat cable (4-gauge at least), and run that from the alternator's output charge stud to either the battery positive terminal or that stud on the fender relay where the factory charge wire was, install a 175-amp megafuse inline with that cable just as a good measure in case the rectifier in the alternator ever shorts out.

As far as belts go - 13/16" impact socket is what you need, also a 1/2" drive impact wrench - buzz the pulley nuts off both the old and the new alternators, swap pulleys, impact the nuts back on - I also put some loctite on the shaft threads, but it's probably not all that necessary. Be careful to keep the nuts and shafts matches, and only swap the pulleys, cause sometimes the threads are ever so slightly different and can ruin your day if you mix them.

 

Well, that's a start, where is the voltage regulator, and what does it look like?
I swapped the pully, but now my belt to vac pump is too long....

 

Alright - the voltage regulator is a square box roughly the size of a tuna can (everything is the size of a tuna can on these trucks, lol) that sits on the passenger side inner fender kinda below and a bit behind the starter relay with all the wires bolted on it. The VR has a wide flat connector with I think five wires - of all these wires the only one you need is a green/red wire that you'll have to cut off the connector to be able to use it for your 3G swap.

On the belt issue - if your 3G alternator has the same bolt-spacing as the old 1G alternator then the pulley would be in the exact same location as before and all belts would match. However, I have the suspicion that you got the small-frame 3G alternator, it's still a 130-amp unit but the distance between its mounting holes is 7" instead of the 8-1/4" for the correct large-frame alternator - this would effectively bring the pulley about 3/4" lower than factory, resulting in the vac pump belt being too short now. The vac pump itself has an adjustment slot in the bracket, it can swing up and down just like the alternator swings side to side, so try swinging the pump as far down as it gets and see if that gets you anywhere...

 

Must have been small frame, considering it came from taurus, I had to lower the top arm to be able to bolt it in. Thanks for pointing out that vac pump is adjustable, and thanks also for helping me find the green/red wire. I have brakes and 14.25 volts to battery now. Thanks for the help, I knew I could get it sorted out here. I'm so happy, old 2g was autozone reman and it would drain the battery every night.

 

If you had to lower the top bracket it was definitely the small-frame alternator - actually the Taurus came with both small and large frame alternators, IIRC the 3.0 V6 got the small-frame and the 3.8 V6 got the large frame. And your original alternator was a 1G if you had an external VR, there were 2Gs used in the mid-'80s but they sucked so Ford went back to the tried and proven 1G setup till '92 when the serpentine belt and pedestal-mount 3G alternator came around.

Glad to hear you got her running good tho. So there was enough adjustment left in the vac pump to take up the slack in the belt?