Got a chance to work on the 54 Ford this afternoon. It has the 223 cid. I would like to see if it will still run before I order more parts, radiator, etc. Most of the wiring is pretty brittle, so I disconnected all the wiring at the firewall where it comes from the selenoid. I ran a jumper from the negative side of the battery to the battery terminal of the coil, then jumpered the selenoid. Put some gas in the carb, the starter turns the engine over ok, but if I pull off a spark plug wire I can't see or hear any spark. Short of grabbing a wire, how else can I test? I did the battery to coil test out of the service manual, it says shouldn't be more than 0.2 volts, I get 0.5 volts. Not sure about the coil to ground test, no voltage from the distributor side of coil to ground, but if I then connect 6 volts to the battery side of the coil, the voltmeter pegs. There shouldn't be anything else I need to hook up to get spark is there? The points are opening ok. Have not cleaned the ground cables yet, but if there is enough juice to turn over the starter I would think the engine should be grounded well enough for the distributor to work? The plugs look pretty good, plug wires are rough. Guess I am wondering if I need to get plug wires, distributor parts, and not sure about the coil, before I keep trying? Any suggestions? I read Julies wiring 101, and know the positives of 12volts, but I'm not ready yet to replace all the 6 volt items.

 

try fileing the points

 

It's not a voltage problem, it's flow problem.

Try getting an extra spark plug, and hooking it to one of the spark plug wires. Then grounding the base of the spare spark plug by setting it on the engine. Try again and see if there is a spark? Yes - fuel or timing.

No? Take off the distributor cap and try turning it over again - see spark in the points? Yes - distributor cap or rotor.

No? Check the wire coming off the distributor to coil and make sure it is solid, well insulated and not shorted on the distributor case. Dress/replace the points, replace the condenser and try again. That wire tends to be a regular cause of this type of thing.

 

Thanks, I will try some of these things next. I hope you don't mind answering questions that have probably been asked before. I try to read through the other threads before I ask too much.

Do any of the major brand parts stores, like NAPA or O'Rielys, typically carry any of these ignition parts on hand? I have ordered some items from LMC Truck, but it takes about a week to get back. Eventually it will need plug wires, may just get them now also as well as points, condenser, cap and rotor.

Did the voltages on the coil seem to indicate anything?

 

oreilly's had the stuff for my flatty in my 53 . the plug wires were universal cut too fit . i can't swear but i think the points were for a later y block not the flatty as i am running 12 volt not six volt . bruce , the old ford tractor guy that was there done the checking for interchange and what would work .

 

NAPA will have just about everything (basic stock part) you will need. They may have to order it from a distribution point but can have it in a couple of days. My local NAPA has just about everything for my 226 and most everything for the chassis ie. u-joints, brake parts, shocks, bearing, grease seals, etc. for my '50. Saves a lot on shipping if you can get it locally. Most of the antique parts houses charge a flat shipping rate of $10.00 on orders up to $100.00 and then 10% of your order above that. Shipping of oversize parts will make your nose bleed. The antique parts houses are just about the only source for specialty items and aftermarket/repo. goodies.

Gil