not all these apply to you but

1993 Ford F-250HD 7.3L

Engine, with filter..........9.9 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........29.1 quarts
Automatic Transmission, C6-Shallow Pan ReFill..........5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, AOT ReFill..........3 quarts
Automatic Transmission, C6-Deep Pan ReFill..........6 quarts
Automatic Transmission, E4OD ReFill..........6.5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed E4OD..........15.7 quarts
4 speed AOT..........12.3 quarts
3 speed C6-Deep..........13.6 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD BW T18-19..........7 pints
Manual Transmission, 5-SPD Mazda..........7.7 pints
Manual Transmission, 5-SPD ZF..........6.8 pints
Differential, Dana 44 Front..........3.6 pints
Differential, Dana 50 Front..........3.9 pints
Differential, Dana 60 Front..........6 pints
Differential, Dana 60-IU Rear..........6.4 pints
Differential, Dana 70 EX HD Rear..........6.6 pints
Differential, Dana 70 HD Rear..........7.4 pints
Differential, Dana 80 Rear..........8.5 pints
Differential, Ford 10.25 RingGear Rear..........7.4 pints
Differential, With 8.8 or 9 RingGear Rear..........5.5 pints
Transfer Case, Warner 1345..........6.4 pints
Transfer Case, Warner 1356..........4.1 pints

Plus two 64 ounce big gulps for the cup holders.

 

PERFECT!!!!

more ?'s
What type of fluid go in the tranny? Standard 80-90w? ATF? Synchromesh?
Is there a name plate on the t-case that will tell me which I have?

oh and by the way, YOU GUYS ROCK!

PZ

 

Oh, and what weight of oil do you recommend?

PZ

 

there should be a tag on the xfer case telling what it is it will be a borg warner if it is 94 and either 1356 or 1345 r i cant remember but the xfer case uses dexron merc atf

 

Transmission uses Dexron/Mercon ATF. If the transfer case is original, it will be a 1356.

Nice truck and Yota, BTW.

Jason

 

Replaced the Tach sensor yesterday! Feels oddly good to have a tach.

I also got the oil replaced.

Before I can drive it I still need:

• Replace anti-freeze. When tested it has NO additive in it!
• New Injectors + Install kit.
• Replace fuel filter

Oh, and one more question. Should my glow plugs act the same as my buddys 97 PSD? Mine turn on for a few seconds, then they start clicking on and off like a blinker or something. The PSD just stays on, no on-off-on-off.

PZ

 

If they only stay on for one or two seconds for the first start of the day, you have one or two glow plugs not working. They should stay on around ten seconds this time of the year. The clicking is normal after the wait to start light goes out. It's the after glow to keep the plugs warm. Should last eight to 10 seconds give or take.

 

They probably stay on for about 10 seconds. I can't really tell if its starting hard because the glow plugs aren't staying on, or because the injectors leak. I guess I will have to re-visit this after I get the fuel system in check. Baby steps!

PZ

 

They should come on for ~10 seconds, then cycle. If they do not come on for ~10 seconds then you need to test the Glow Plugs. (Look in the Stickies in the 80-86 Forum.)

Might as well test them anyways, Good education, Simple.

No coolant Additive, that could be scary in a 7.3, Wonder how longs it's been without it.

New Injectors why?? Still the old Injection Pump right??

Grab the PSD Oil filter FL1995, It is a 2qt filter versus a 1qt, comes in you favorite brand, just convert the number.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I did get a PDS filter. I am a little worried about cavitaion, but it only has 160k miles, so my fingers are crossed. Most injectors are original, IP looks to be newer. I heard that the injectors start going bad, causing power loss. I saw somewhere that they should be replaced every 100k-ish miles. I have 6 stock, and 2 new right now, figured I would swap them all, make sure they are all even.
PZ

 

Is there anyway to test for cavitaion? should I have a analysis done on the oil that I just took out, and see if there is material from the block in it?

PZ

 

If your not having a problem with pressure in the rad., your probably ok. Get the SCA's in it and try to keep them around 2.5 to 2.8 units/gal.

 

You wouldn't look for it in the oil ... It would be in the coolant, and I'm not sure it can be done via the coolant. I believe the only way to know the condition BEFORE it's leaking would be sonic testing, that would require the motor to be dissembled. So, If it ain't leaking into the cylinders don't worry about it until it does, Just get the coolant to spec and maintained.

IMO Replacing Injectors alone is foolish, The IP, Injectors and Fuel system clean out should be done at the same time, Then you should be good to go for 100k plus!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thanks again. Why should the IP be replaced at the same time?

 

It takes two to tango ... Meaning they work hand in hand.

A weak IP can't pop new injectors, a new IP can drizzle old injectors.
Either way it's not efficient.

I realize it's big cash layout (~$600), however you can gain that back in fuel mileage (not to mention performance), plus you should be good to go for 100k plus.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~