I need opinions, I am going to be putting new plugs and wires on my 90 bronco 5.8. I have always been a fan of and used the basic Motorcraft plugs. Is there any reason to use a different plug,? and if so what one?

 

No reason to try any other brands, they'll work just fine, and the technology hasn't changed, you could try the platinum ones from some brands, as they are supposed to endure a lot longer, but i bet if they work that long, you'll have a lot of trouble removing them when you actually need to replace them again.

 

If you have shorty headers, you want the shortest plugs. (Boash) Dont get the plus 2s or 4s. Their just BS. Also you want 45 degree boots on your wires. If you dont have shortys, Motorcraft is as good as any.

 

Stick with what FoMoCo designed for the engine. Motorcraft plugs are best suited for the application.

 

Thanks all,

 

I went with Autolite Coppers when I did mine in my 300. No reason other than it was what was available at the time and I didn't feel the need to go with Platinum or other exotic type plugs. I just always make it a personal habit to stay away from Champion.

 

Never had Champions perform well in Ford products either. Chryslers did pretty well with them... and the lawnmower.

 

Therefore Chrysler = lawnmower?

 

If you have an extra $125.00 laying around, you ought to do a Googly on the '6 Liter Tune-up' while you're at it. Best money I ever spent on the '87, kicked my mpg's up from 10/14 to 12/17 and paid for itself within 3 months.........

 

Well I was trying not to be too obvious about it but now that you mention it...

 

I googled it but only found a link about plug wires?? can you give me some more info

 

Here's the set-up in a nutshell---but please research it some more before going ape*****;

1). Good quality fatter plug wires, at least 8.8mm (I use 9mm FMS's)

2). Good quality dizzy cap and rotor (I use Accel).

3). Higher output 48,000+ volt coil (I use an MSD #8227)

4). Autolite #24's or 25's plugs (or MotorCrafts), gapped at .055.

A). Replace your plugs with the new ones.

B). Install your new plug wires, being VERY CAREFUL to follow Ford's routing diagram to a T).

C). Install your new dizzy cap and rotor.

D). Install new coil.

E). Start truck and warm up the engine. Hook up a timing light. Remove the SPoUt connector, and see what your base timing is. (it should be 10 degrees BTDC)

F). Now loosen the dizzy bolt up a bit and advance the timing to ABOUT 13.5 degrees BTDC. Tighten the dizzy bolt and go for a test drive--preferably up some medium hills and on a road that you can do 45 mph+ on. Check for performance, but more importantly, check for knock/pre-detonation. If you're knocking, stop your truck and back off the timing JUST A Hair. Wash, rinse, repeat til it sounds and feels right.

G). I actually time mine (looking for 13.5 degrees BTDC) by using my dash installed vacuum gauge---at idle (825 rpm's) I'm pulling almost 19 inches of vacuum.

H). Trust me, this works and has been proven over and over again on 1000's of small block Fords. Just don't question why..........

 

Geesh, all the hatred. Believe it or not, Dodge and Ford can live peacefully together under the same roof. And, neither one gets jealous at all if I drive one over the other. They're very understanding like that. Here's Proof.


Back on topic....

There's a multi-page thread over on FSB all about the ignition upgrade and timing bump. When I did mine, I used the Taylor wires. I checked the resistance between those and the factory 8mm FoMoCo wires that were in there(5 years old) and the difference was incredible to say the least.

My distrust for Champion came 20-30 years ago when I had my first car, a 1970 Triumph Spitfire Mk3. Lucas Electrical system aside, I always had issues with those plugs. I don't even know how may I'd have that were bad from the box, let alone going bad a few hundred miles after installing them. I just never trusted them after that. It was so bad that I carried a full 8 sets with me at all times, gaped, with the wrench to change one out on the side of the road if it started to miss.

Now granted, my 08 Ram MegaCab has 16 of them in there right now and they work great. I just picked up 16 NGK 5306's to replace them with at around the 30K mark but that's just me.

 

I don't hate Chryslers or Dodges. In fact, I like a LOT of them. I will NEVER buy another one simply because of the royal screwing over my wife and I got a year ago when the company was in trouble and instead of working harder to keep their customers, they basically slapped us in the face and damn near ruined our credit because of the careless, reckless, and inconsiderate attitude displayed by every branch of their corporate structure from the highest level down. And once we had washed our hands of the entire situation, they had the utter audacity to continue to fill our voice mail, email and mail box with calls and customer surveys.

I'd be driving a new RAM right now if it weren't for that issue and the obtuse attitude the entire company displayed towards it. As far as I am concerned, the products aren't the problem, the people are. When you are running to the government for money because you've been utterly stupid in the way you have handled your business and then you turn around and destroy what few good customer relationships you DO still have, you DESERVE to fail.

This from someone who's grandfather earned nearly his entire living at the now defunct Fenton, MO Chrysler plant.... (moved to Mexico by the way).

 

One word;

Credit Union.......