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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Pitman arm

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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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Pitman arm

Any suggestions on how to remove pitman arm on my 53? I cannot break loose the bolt.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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You can cut the bolt then use a sharp chisel to break it loose, I had to do that years ago when I switched to the toyota box.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Question - and I'm not sure but something to think about - "Is it reverse thread?"
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
Question - and I'm not sure but something to think about - "Is it reverse thread?"
If PB Blaster is your friend, …………..oxy acetylene is your lover!


53 f100 steering box (620 x 877).jpg
 
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Last edited by Old F1; Apr 19, 2010 at 05:23 PM. Reason: smart a$$
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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Amen on the PB blaster. It saves my butt all the time.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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Oh that one! Never mind.

There is a groove on the shaft that the bolt fits into. Reef on the nut to get it off then pound the bolt out from the back side. Try tightening it a dash first to get it loose.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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air tools or heat.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 02:07 AM
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Try hitting it with a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. According to Bob Jones, that is the absolute best stuck thingy loosener there is!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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I can't see that nut resisting a 6 pt socket on an 18" breaker bar with a 4' length of pipe slipped over the handle... (the "PERSUADER" as I call it) ..with me standing on the end of the pipe. (Did I ever mention that I buy the brands of hand tools that carry a lifetime replacement warantee?)
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 07:56 AM
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So you guys are saying there is nothing special holding the bolt on. I'm about to remove my steering column and this bolt is very tight. Others on the truck have been fairly easy to remove (well fender bolts broke...)
As you see the AFT/Acetone mix is already on.



I don't want to break anything, but a replacement bolt is not too much (I think I would come back and brag if I was able to actually break that bolt.)
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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Is that a crack I see on the front of your pitman arm?...running from the bottom of the nut down? That can't be good.

 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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I would take a pick and remove all the grease and dirt possible from the slots in the nut and the slot perpidicular to the bolt in the pitman arm. This gets the oil closer to where it needs to work. Keep treating with penetrating oil. Patience is the key.

If it is a crack as pointed out with proper preparation it could be brazed or welded.

Good Luck.....
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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That looks to be a forging tool mark not a crack, but if it is to be reused, it should be inspected once it's off none the less. There's nothing special about that bolt. replace it with a grade 5 or better and lock nut should it break.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Huntfamily53
Is that a crack I see on the front of your pitman arm?...running from the bottom of the nut down? That can't be good.
I ran out and checked real quick. It's not a crack. It is a spider web covered with penetrating oil. I will definitely inspect all these parts. This is an area that you want it working flawlessly.

I put a cheater bar on it and it loosened fairly smoothly.
Before I get to remove it all the way, I have to get the Christmas decorations out of the attic. AND my wife is volunteering me to mount a flat screen tv on her friends wall... Looks like my day is moving in a direction I didn't expect....
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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You may need a gear puller (or pitman arm puller) to remove the pitman arm from the shaft if it is stuck. I'd first try tightly wedging a couple large screwdrivers or pry bars between the arm and frame on both sides of the shaft then use a large punch and hand sledge to give the center of the shaft a solid hit. Be prepared for the arm to suddenly pop off (hopefully).
 
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