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My truck has developed a hard shifting issue shifting out of 1st at 50kph then out of 2nd at 80kph. I have replace the vacccum solenoid (or what ever it is called) at the rear of the tranny. Is I adjust the vrv it seems to makes no difference. Does the vrv need to be replaced as well?
Pull the vacuum line off the line pressure modulator (the part you already replaced) an see if there's any vacuum in the line with the engine running, it could be that the VRV failed internally.
i have the same problem with my 86 same everthang if you figure it out let me know on here. I havent replaced the vacumme thang but i no its getting vacumme to it b c ive check it running. thanks
No hard brakes hear infact i just payed ford about 200 for a new vac pump so i know thats not it right along with the booster to. I cant seem to get the brake light off now though.
Get under the truck with a can of WD-40 and spray the transmission linkage real good, work it and keep spraying it and working it real good, then go for a ride, should clear things up.
Had that same problem on the motorhome when I bought it 10 years ago, that's why I got a good deal on it, previous owner been told it needed a transmission. Only needed a couple good shots of WD-40
You don't have the engine running for the test, you need to apply 20" vacuum (Hg) to upper VRV port and attach vacuum gauge to lower VRV port. The lower port is the one that goes to tranny, the upper to vacuum pump.
You have to maintain 20" vacuum (Hg) througout this test. If it drops off you need to pump it back up.
Remove throttle return spring, cycle throttle lever 5 times from idle to WOT. Make sure 20" vacuum is maintained on upper port side.
Move throttle so it is 0.515" (33/64") from wide open (they make a tool for this). Vacuum gauge should read from 6-8" of vacuum (Hg). If incorrect adjust VRV to 7".
Again apply 20" vacuum, cycle throttle from idle to WOT 5 times. Return to idle. Gauge should read at least 13".
It says if you can't get the 7" or the 13" to replace the VRV. If VRV checks out maybe the diaphragm (modulator), line from VRV goes to the vacuum diaphragm I believe. Can't find any adjustment for the diaphragm but I think there is a little.
Basically all you need for the test is a vacuum pump (handheld type), vacuum gauge and a ruler to measure 1/2" or a 33/64" drill bit in lieu of the .515" tool. And a screwdriver for any adjustment needed.
Good Luck
James
Note..... 20" vacuum Hg is equal to MINUS 65 Kpa..........
Ford online dealer.......
FOTZ7B200A $132.11cost...... $71.34 sell
VALVE - TRANS PRESSU
International P/N 1801361C6.
the band adjustment can cause a hard shifting issue too logger,so check this out before spending $:
from cdnsarguy(diff forum):
Band adjust.....C6
Raise or shinney under the blocked vehicle.
Clean all the dirt from the band adjusting screw
Hold the adjusting screw from turning, remove and discard the lock nut.
Install a new locknut, tighten the adjusting screw to 10 ftlbs torque.
Back off the adjusting screw exactly 1 1/2 turns.
Hold the adjusting screw from turning and tighten the locknut to 35-40 ftlbs.
Lower or shinney out from under truck, remove blocks.
greywind that is the part number for a CDR, not a VRV. sheesh! haha
f0tp7b200aa part number on part itself.
f0tz7b200a part number from fords comupter.
Lists 249, ouch.
EDIT, in the classes of ford parts, it is in the N group, not a ford only part. It is available after market and ford will sell them if you ask for a good discount or know one of them like i do, usually around 150. Checking one more site and place. back later.
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