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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Duraspark II Conversion

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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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Duraspark II Conversion

Hello all!

I have an 82 f100 that had a 300-6 in it that died gracefully after 280k miles.

I pulled a 302 out of an 85 f150 that had a ripped up wiring harness and I am converting it down from the computer controlled system to the more simple duraspark II.

I have all the parts for what should be a "drop in" system except that the dizzy that I have wont "drop in"! literally... It has a little bit too wide rim on it and it wont fit in the hole for it.

Does 1985 hate me? Is there another option for me? Did I get an odd dizzy?

Thanks guys!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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Where did you get the distributor? It should fit if you got the right one. If it's going in part of the way, you might need to turn the oil pump shaft a little bit so it will drop in.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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got it from a junk yard. Asked them for a duraspark II with vac advance for an 8 cylinder 5.0 302 and thats what they gave me. Did I get an odd one?

it slides the gear in and most of the shaft until it hits the part that the shaft enters into the dizzy. that is what is too fat. The gear is the same as the one I pulled out so that isnt it.

I guess I'll try again.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Ford has so many different engines, and the junkyard has so many different vehicles, I would wonder if they gave you the correct one.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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hmm... Well they arent much more expensive at autozone. I'll probably just end up there. How do I know if i need steel gear of cast iron?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:23 PM
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Only the roller camshafts supposedly need a "special" gear, although I ran a regular dist on a roller cam with no problems.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Roller cams are made from billet steel, so the idea is to match the gear to the cam so one doesn't eat the other up. As far as I know trucks didnt get roller cams until 94.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. Do I need a distributor with vacuum advance or one with mechanical advance? I'd rather do mechanical advance if I can.

And does anyone know what I have to do as far as vacuum routing? Do I need to replace the carburetor?
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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For a truck you want vacuum advance, single vacuum, it will still have mechanical advance too though.

As for the distributor not fitting, mine didn't either, I had to take some 90 grit and wire wheel before it would go in. The difference was only about .080 but it was enough to stop it.

As fo the vacuum, hook it to any port located below the throttle blades.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Only hook the vacuum on a special ported vacuum on the carb, especially if you have a automatic tranny. This special port will only have vacuum when you rev the engine. That's the way Ford originally hooked them up. You can experiment with manifold vacuum, but I never can get them to run right like that with a automatic.

You can leave the vacuum disconnected and run on the mechanical only if you are not worried about fuel mileage.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Yeah I should have been more specific, any port on the carb below the throttle blades. Although they aren't always the right kind of vacuum.

I use one, if you were looking down at the carb, it's at about 4 o clock, or facing the carb, front right.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks guys!

Where exactly do I take the metal off of the dizzy? Just from around the big knuckle that is just flush with the engine?

Sorry for the late replies. Life gets in the way of fun...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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Yep, on mine I actually had to sand both of those collars down a bit. Obviously, use your common sense, don't go crazy, and make sure everything is clean and it really needs it first.
 
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