Almost. I was replacing my factory 4WD hubs. The part with the lock/free switch. While using the mallet passenger side came out easily. Driver side stuck bad. It actually broke when hit with the rubber mallet. I'm looking for suggestions how to remove. I have been drenching it with penatrating oil. Still stuck and the metal is very fragile.

 

Post number 10 has the answere you are looking for.
A piece of ABS or PVC pipe which should slide tight over the hub lock.
Choose an end of the pipe as the working end. Cut slots at 12,3,6,9 o'clock so that when a hose clamp is snugged over the slots the pipe can squeeze together onto the locking hub.
You can get more leverage while wiggling if your choice of pipe is long enough. Also you can drill some holes at the outer end of the pipe to allow your biggest screw driver to be inserted throught making a T. Smack on that mother and it'll come. Schedule 40 plastic pipe would be my choice.
Two filter wrenches used in unusual ways could also fit the bill just, not near as robust.

 

The problem is the existing metal was weak and corroded. The hub broke. It is below the collar on the truck axle on one side. About 2 inches on the other. All of the internals came out. I can see the internal gears. It sounds just like what bigblue61 was describing. There isn't enough hub left to clamp a pipe onto.

 

I am having the same issue as pasandman i have a picture cant attach it though

 

Now what

 

18" channel locks are what work for me

 

Thanks tilelayher. Unfortunately that's very close to what I have going on. How about using heat? Good Idea? If so to what the hub?

 

How do channel locks work if the hub has a spline shaft.

 

I had to drill and crack mine 10 years ago to get it out. I used a slide hammer for the pieces. What a mess. Was playing with it for half a day..or more.

 

Edited to insert the fact that I did not realize which forum this was. Everything I said below is relevant to a 92-96 F2/350. I'll not delete it in case it is partially relevant to this forum's vehicles. Apologies.




Oh my.

Is that mangled end the aluminum piece the cover screwed to?

I can't tell from the pic but it looks like the big C-clip is still in place. On some hubs it almost full circle, with a 1/4" gap between the ends. On some hubs it is a thinner design that actually overlaps itself and is harder to see the ends and trickier to remove as you have to fish an end out almost twisting it, and then I just spin it out like I was snaking out. On both designs you will not see the typical C-clip holes, the clip ends simply narrow slightly just enough you can hook them with a small screwdriver or pick. You may have to dig through the muck to see the ends or end.


If that is removed, the very inside ring that splines onto the axle shaft itself can get caught. (You are seeing three rings? In the pic, there is the rusty metal hub, inside of that is what I'm calling the aluminum piece, inside of that has splines in the inside and outside, then there is the 3rd, very center ring that surrounds the solid axle shaft.) For some reason the very end splines of the shaft get gunked and makes that splined center ring bind. The very center ring and the outer aluminum rings are connected to each other inside and behind that middle ring. The middle ring has a spring behind it and could be removed if you wanted. As the outer aluminum piece is mangled, I'd try to tap the very center ring back in onto the shaft enough to just see the grove for smaller C clip that may, or may not have, been on there.With that last bit of splines exposed, get a dental or O-ring pick, the same small screw driver you used to remove the big C-clip, spray parts cleaner, whatever, just get the grooves cleaned. The whole mess should slip off then.

I can send picks of the various pieces if it helps.

 

The aluminum outside gets froze to the hub splines. If it is loose then thats not your problem..Even if it moves a little.

 

So i spent an hour working on this again today i sprayed with pb blaster. So can I remove the entire hub assembly with the bearings or is the back of the hub attached to the bearings. What I am getting at is I will put new bearing assemblys into the truck.

 

Leo are you giving me info on how I can remove the hub backwards since, its already destroyed and not coming out in one piece like it supposed to,

 

Isn't there circlip behind the locking hub? On that year. What years are we dealing with?
The aluminum has to come out first...

 

2003 I can't get the aluminum out. @99f350 how did you crack yours out?