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More Throttle Pressure Required for Same Speed/Accelleration/Work

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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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More Throttle Pressure Required for Same Speed/Accelleration/Work

This came on several months ago. It seems I need more foot on the throttle to get the 6.0 up to speed and maintain speed. My MPG is down about 2+/- in city and on highway. The tranny downshifts with even slight additional throttle, did n't used to do that.

Any ideas what is giving out?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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Stupid question but how is the air filter? Also, does the truck rev sluggishly when in park?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 01:38 AM
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Or perhaps the fuel filter?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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In the middle of all that an Airaid (sp?) was installed and the old filter wasn't bad. Can't remember about the fuel fliters last change, basically the dealer had done all the scheduled maintenance.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 11:35 AM
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Yeah, make sure that the fuel filters get changed every 10K, PSDs love clean fuel!
If you can tell if it is sluggish when revving in park, it will be easier to diagnose if it is engine related or tranny related. From the sounds of things, I am assuming engine. Check on the fuel filters before you go further.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Bad news coming in. EGR cooler and Oil Cooler, possible head gasket, worst case is cracked head. Up to $5000 cost on a 6.0 with 127,000 miles.

Having the shop look into a low mile motor from a wrecking yard. See what the cost/benefit might be.

Send them prayers this way.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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woah thats a big jump in problem...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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EGR is not that big a deal, and would not justify a motor swap, same with the cooler, but a blown head gasket would definitely be. Sorry to hear that, but if you do a motor swap, it would be a perfect time to change head bolts to ARPs and never have to worry about that again.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 02:58 AM
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Oh man, that really does suck.

Drop down to the 6.0L forum and utilize some of the knowledge base they have. Since you're looking at a replacement engine anyway, there are some modifications you can do (in addition to the replacement head bolts listed by TennesseeMustangPerf) to improve the longevity of the engine.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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The shop hasn't finalized the estimate, it was just a ball park. They needed the whole weekend to really do up the estimate right! (just kiddin, my own bad joke. need something to laugh about.)

The shop did mention about upgraded head bolts with the head work. Also recall mention that the coolant level was down 3 gallons. The dealer had just done a coolant flush and fill with a new recovery tank in January.

Two things I'm gun-shy about:

Flush & Fills and head work.

My last two trucks that had tranny F&F needed new trannys within 3 months. Granted they had some miles but they hadn't shown any signs of slipping or failure before that.

One truck from 20 yrs back had a blown head gasket. Had a shop do the work, but it never was quite right after that. After a while I started carrying gasket sets with me because of the continuing troubles: by the third time I could do a field replacement of the head gasket in just a couple hours on that little 4 cyl OHC. It usually lasted a few months. Couldn't afford do much else back then. It was defiinitely a Fix Or Repair Daily.

Those experiences prompted me to ask the shop about a used engine instead of fixing as the price difference was getting close. Besides maybe a 2006 6.0 might have some improvements over my older, high-mileage 2004 (it has lemon sticker).

I'll read up on that other thread - thanks for the input!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 11:20 AM
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Flush and fills are not bad, as long as you do them right, use Motorcraft Gold coolant, and are careful to do the proper procedures to evacuate all air from the system to prevent puking. Also not a bad idea to ditch the EGR while the motor is out, easier to do work when the mill is out of the rig, and and EGR delete will benefit your truck.
 
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