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how do i know if i have a 205 or 203 tcase? my 4wheel selector has 2h 4h N 4L im assuming that is the 205 tcase(as i was told on here that this is true). so i guess my ? is, does it matter what year my tcase is, and how would i find that out.(if it isnt the original tcase)
i just bought two seals from timken and neither one of them are the same size as the one on my truck. the one new seal has the same outter diameter, but the rubber seal itself leaves too much room between the yoke and the rubber....ive been trying to get this seal for a while now, and am having no luck what so ever.
The selector you described is for a 205 case. There are a few different outputs on theses cases so the easiest way to get the right seals is to get the part numbers off the old seals.
I cant find the thread where we discussed this the other day, but it does not matter where the case came from, IE, Brocno, f150, F250, or F350, they are all the same. Only exception is the physical differences between the remote mount and direct mount cases, but the spline count is identical for the 205 case.
The problem you have is that you are asking for a generic 205 with a generic yoke. More than likely a standard 1310, or 1330 yoke, and you probably need seal for a yoke that utilized a double cardan joint.
All of these yokes have a different OD, which would make the ID of the seal different.
Seals are basic in that they only have three critical measurements.
Inside diameter, this is the sealing surface where it meets the yoke.
Outside diameter, this is where the seal presses into the case or seal / bearing retainer.
Seal width, this is how thick the seal is so that it can sit in the proper place and seal correctly.
Thats it, ID, OD and thickness. Believe it or not these three numbers are the basic ingredient in most seal, and bearing part numbers.
So what does this mean? It means in order to find your correct part, you have to rely on what you know. Every seal (just about) has a number on it, and it can be cross referenced to an equal.
Unfortunately, the mechanic usually kills the seal and runis the number making it difficult or impossible to read.
What next? Use a pair of calipers to determine the dimension listed above.
Inside diameter, outside diameter, and the thickness, is what you will need.
Next you can take this to a parts place with a real book, one that can actually use the book, and does not require the computer, or will ask you what year, make or model.
You simply need a seal with either "XXXXX" as a part number or equal, or a seal that has the required dimensions.
yea i remember talking about this with you the other day. i took off the yoke and got the numbers off of it and put it back together. i called autozone down the street and they couldnt cross reference it with a timken seal. so i ordered three that the computer said that it could be and NONE of them were the correct seal. i then measured the od of the seal and ID and called napa and gave them the number. they DID cross reference it to "sks"(?) seal and found one! ordered and will be in tommorow and i gave him the OD and ID that i got and his computer came up with the same measurements. finally, a real parts store got the job done
Well good, looks like you are cooking with gas now.
Just as a reminder, save the part number in a book. You should start keeping a journal for hard to find parts, and such. This should stay in the truck in the event that something happens on the road. You can reference the book, and find the correct part number for the part you are after.
thats a good idea to keep it in the truck. i do however keep all repairs and receipts and part numbers etc. in a three ring, kind of similar to a write up at a shop. but in the truck, now thats thinkin. thanks a lot man, sounds like you def. know your stuff
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