I just had a wild idea... let me know if you actually know how to do this.
My dad is building a new garage and we thought why not put some pipe in the floor and fill it full of water/antifreeze (something of that sort) and use a block heater for a truck to warm the floor.
We were just joking at the time, but the more i get to thinking about it... I would like to have the shop floor heated also.
If there is anyway to actually heat the floor in a method like that, let me know.

 

Check with your local HVAC guy. From what I understand floor heat is real popular on the east coast (This old House etc)
It turns your whole floor into a radiator.

I dont think a block heater would work but a water heater and a pump to move the "water" might.

Good Luck

 

Hrm, didnt think a block heater would exactly work... only thing I could check on tho.
Id like to do it "myself" tho as we are building on a budget.

I guess I could make the floor a radiator, and hook a junk chebby motor up to it to get the water warm. lol

 

A used boiler would work better but a Cheby would in a pinch.

 

a used boiler is more dependable 2!!!!
lol Hrm Id really like to figure this out tho

 

Do a search we had a discussion about this awhile ago!
Radiant floor heat with a glycol system heat exchanger off a boiler.
Rich

 

I lived in Korea for a couple a years and they use floor heating in almost all their houses. It works just like a radiator system in that heated water is pumped into pipes that zig-zag under the floor. The water in Korean homes is heated via an outside charcoal stove, called an "ondol" stove. As such, it's termed "ondol" heating. It's awesome!! Keeps YOU warm, not just the air around you. I'm sure you could do the same with a small kerosene or propane heater in the loop. Just run the water tubing through the heater maybe? I don't know for sure how, but it definitely works well!

Tim

 

GO BUCS!!!! #1 World Champions!!!! This year it was the Super Bowl, next year it'll be the '72 Dolphins undefeated season record!!!

WoooHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tim

 

their right, it is popular here on the east coast. i've helped some friends put it in thier houses, none in cement yet though....

they use the plastic continous pipe, and lay it about every foot, in 25 - 50 foot loops, all connected to a manifold, and hooked into your boiler. for a floor, insulation should be placed under the cement, or you heat will go down in to the dirt. it is a great way to heat, not the cheapest, but definalty worth the $$$

 

Hi Andy! Don't mean to squash your idea but the block heater thing won't work. However your idea of floor heat is IMO a terrific one. I have floor heat in my shop and wouldn't want anything else. It's a very simple system but there are a few things it doesn't sound like you've thought of just yet. I did a lot of research on this, even though it's very popular here in western/northern Canada. I needed a large heat source (my shop is 48'x70"x18") but know of a couple very simple solutions for small setups. E-mail me or reply here, and I'd be happy to share what I've found with you. You won't regret going with floor heat if you use it much, and install it right.

 

Hey
Yea, my shop isn't going to be very big... about the size of a 2 car garage. Let me know what's the simplest/affordable way to go.

 

There is another thread here on heating the shop that has a whole bunch of ideas on cheapo ways to heat a shop.

 

Andy: My comments here are based on what works here where I live and the climate we have. You may be able to "adjust" things for your area.?? (Typically, temperatures here in January will be in the -20C range. We've had several weeks around -30 and our coldest day so far this winter was -42, and these don't include the wind chill factor.) As with all heating/cooling systems, your actual requirements will vary depending on windows, doors, and insulation values. My experience is with standard values for this area which is R20 walls and R40 ceiling. I also have 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation under the perimeter 12'. Before pouring the concrete floor, I placed 1/2" pipe (specially made for radiant floor heat) at 12" spacings, with tighter spacings around the perimeter, overhead doors, etc. where heat loss will be greater. All the pipe should be in equal length loops. Standard rolls are 250'. Two rolls might be about right for your size?? Or, you could use several shorter loops but keep them all the same length. They will attach to a manifold, one for each end of the loop, supply and return. Hook these to a circulating pump made for this purpose and whatever heat source you decide to use, making a complete loop. You will also need at least one automatic air valve to release any air from the system, a purge/fill valve to fill the system, and a thermostat to control the pump. You can add any number of "options" as well, like valves to control the heat to different loops (zones) in the floor, temperature and pressure guages to monitor everything, and a Schrader valve for pressure testing. The simplest/cheapest heat source for a system this size would likely be a very small hot water heater like you would use for domestic hot water. It wouldn't require a very big one. I know of a 40'x40' shop near me heated with about a 30 gallon model. They work well because they are thermostatically controlled and easy to hook up. Electric, propane, natural gas will work, just check the ratings for this type of use. Sorry for the length. Hope this helps.

 

Here it is, quick and simple. Everything you need is available at Lowe's or Home Depot. If you have access to a plumbing/heating wholesaler, use 1/2" PEX pipe for the infloor material. If you don't, use 1/2" soft copper from Depot. Install the pipe in a single loop 12 - 18" on center and try to completely cover the floor area. If your garage is 20' x 30' you will use about 650' feet of pipe. At a 120 degree water temp, you will get about 20btuh per square foot of concrete. Braze any joints in the copper, don't solder. A soldered joint in concrete can pull loose. Attach the copper to 6x6 welded wire using wire ties. Raise the welded wire using plastic pylons to the middle of a 4" slab. Pressure test the line to 100psi and leave it under test while the concrete is poured. If you create a leak, block it out with 2x4's and hand pour it after you fix the leak. After the concrete is cured, install a gas or propane 40 gallon water heater on an 18" stand. Tie the infloor copper pipe into the water heater so there is a continuous loop. Install a small 120volt circulating pump in this loop. Wire the circ pump to a 120volt thermostat with a hot feed and away you go. I have done this on several cabins, garages, sidewalks etc. You don't need a boiler or all of the controls that go with it. You can also use a circ pump with a built in timer and forego the t-stat.
Feel free to e-mail me if you want more details.

Rob

 

I would highly reccomend that if you are pouring a slab for your garage, for about 250 bucks you install the pex piping. In a few years when you save up enough money the piping will be there to hook up to a boiler or HWT.
I live in northern ontario and am a plumber. i install infloor systems quite often. you can't beat the effiencey and comfort of it.
sluggo36's description would work well and is a low cost way to go.