Tailgate off or on? Fuel milage
#31
Hi Bill, RPM's are Rpm's, at 60 I'm turning 1500 flat,at 2200,I'd have the cops swarming.The reason town driving get less mpg is up and down rpm's and recovering power so often.Even is the engine is running in neutral,it will naturally burn more gas at 2200rpm than at 1500rpm.You also have a thing for exhaust sound,which means you like to hear it,and it's a fact that guys with love of good sounding pipes tend to get in to it a little more,hence less mpg.Drop your ratio into the low 3'S,put 50psi in your tires,and wear ear plugs (HA-HA) and you may see some mpg.You have an automatic trans,let it worry about the hills,us guys with sticks have to think about it.I've had 2 300's,a '91 and now a '96,and if either one got your mileage,that baby would be down until it was right,both got 18-20 on the highway,the '96 is more towards 20.I've got 2:73's and p235x75R 15's,same Daytons you have, only smaller and a tonnea cover. The air pushes so hard on the rear 1/4 of it that I have to put the cross rib back in position after every trip.That plastic valance on the bottom of your front bumper is said to save 1 pmg,so if it's off,put it back on.Good luck with your mpg's,but I think your going to have to mess with gears.
#32
You also have a thing for exhaust sound,which means you like to hear it,and it's a fact that guys with love of good sounding pipes tend to get in to it a little more,hence less mpg.Drop your ratio into the low 3'S,put 50psi in your tires,and wear ear plugs (HA-HA) and you may see some mpg.You have an automatic trans,let it worry about the hills,us guys with sticks have to think about it.I've had 2 300's,a '91 and now a '96,and if either one got your mileage,that baby would be down until it was right,both got 18-20 on the highway,the '96 is more towards 20.I've got 2:73's and p235x75R 15's,same Daytons you have, only smaller and a tonnea cover. The air pushes so hard on the rear 1/4 of it that I have to put the cross rib back in position after every trip.That plastic valance on the bottom of your front bumper is said to save 1 pmg,so if it's off,put it back on.Good luck with your mpg's,but I think your going to have to mess with gears.
Do you run 50psi? I run 40psi all around and I'm thinking that 35 may be more appropriate for my truck's weight. That reminds me, Bill, have you considered going to something other than an M/T tire?
That valence is said to make that much of a difference? wow.
#33
#34
i did notice a difference when I removed the valence from the front bumper. I have since put it back. Like was posted before, your tires are definately not helping. All that extra rubber does make a difference. Maybe think about getting highway tires from spring through fall. Im sure the body lift isnt helping either, but thats the price of a nice looking truck. To be honest, the 4.9 in my first truck (wish i had pics to show everyone, it was really sweet) got horrible gas mileage. I loved the 302 in my retired DD. Everyone complains about them but it was perfectly suited to my F-150. you are just going to have to try different things. Leave the tailgate on and only buy a car as a last resort. Because if you do, you will miss your truck everytime you get in it. Can you really put a price on love?
#36
Tailgate up. Before I moved to the town I work in, I was commuting about 120 miles a day and had tried the tailgate trick (even though I had seen the Mythbusters episode). I got worse mileage, by about 2 MPG or so, with the gate down/off.
On the idea of a second car to save on fuel: Unless you're doing a lot of driving, it doesn't make financial sense. There's the price of the car, upkeep and repairs, and insurance. The DD car would have to either get stellar fuel mileage or be really cheap to justify its existence.
On the idea of a second car to save on fuel: Unless you're doing a lot of driving, it doesn't make financial sense. There's the price of the car, upkeep and repairs, and insurance. The DD car would have to either get stellar fuel mileage or be really cheap to justify its existence.
#38
Bill, IMHO, placing a cover over the bed or removing the tail gate will do nothing for you. It's the 4.11's and the 31 x 10.50's.
My '86 F-150 4x4 had the M4OD and the I-6 and I was running 3.08's from the factory and 31x10.50's. The truck wouldn't pull well unless it was in 4wd but had plenty of hwy power. I took it to Maine several times and upstate NY once and she did fine. I averaged 17-18 hwy and slightly around town.
I'd consider dropping to a 3.55 axle and or running stock rubber if you want the mpg's. The 31's fill the wheel wells nicely and they look great and handle even better. I think the 4.11's are a little too stout for the 300 as this motor is a low rev engine and is more comfortable in the lower rpm range.
My '86 F-150 4x4 had the M4OD and the I-6 and I was running 3.08's from the factory and 31x10.50's. The truck wouldn't pull well unless it was in 4wd but had plenty of hwy power. I took it to Maine several times and upstate NY once and she did fine. I averaged 17-18 hwy and slightly around town.
I'd consider dropping to a 3.55 axle and or running stock rubber if you want the mpg's. The 31's fill the wheel wells nicely and they look great and handle even better. I think the 4.11's are a little too stout for the 300 as this motor is a low rev engine and is more comfortable in the lower rpm range.
It would seem to me that your current gear setup would potentially hurt highway mileage, but I wouldn't think that the 4.11's would hurt your city mileage any. I would actually think that it would improve it. But I could be wrong.
Seems to me, if city mileage is that poor compared to your highway mileage, then it may be directly related to your driving habits, or something may be wrong with the truck.
Seems to me, if city mileage is that poor compared to your highway mileage, then it may be directly related to your driving habits, or something may be wrong with the truck.
My engine isn't in the best shape but it's not bad. I really should do a compression test and find out what the cylinders are doing. I know the engine bogs down a lot unless I run higher octane, which makes me think I have low compression in one or more. Plus my engine runs inconsistantly; some days she's a race truck but most days she's a tractor.
By the way, I think it's interesting people suggest I run a higher gear to keep the 300 in it's powerband.. It seems like mine pulls hard to 3,500 rpm. I manually downshifted the truck into second on a big hill yesterday and the truck really came alive, and I was pushing 3,000 rpm. Surprised me. From what people say, I would have more power at 2,000 rpm, not three.
Or is this simply all in the gears?
#39
Hi Bill, RPM's are Rpm's, at 60 I'm turning 1500 flat,at 2200,I'd have the cops swarming.The reason town driving get less mpg is up and down rpm's and recovering power so often.Even is the engine is running in neutral,it will naturally burn more gas at 2200rpm than at 1500rpm.You also have a thing for exhaust sound,which means you like to hear it,and it's a fact that guys with love of good sounding pipes tend to get in to it a little more,hence less mpg.Drop your ratio into the low 3'S,put 50psi in your tires,and wear ear plugs (HA-HA) and you may see some mpg.You have an automatic trans,let it worry about the hills,us guys with sticks have to think about it.I've had 2 300's,a '91 and now a '96,and if either one got your mileage,that baby would be down until it was right,both got 18-20 on the highway,the '96 is more towards 20.I've got 2:73's and p235x75R 15's,same Daytons you have, only smaller and a tonnea cover. The air pushes so hard on the rear 1/4 of it that I have to put the cross rib back in position after every trip.That plastic valance on the bottom of your front bumper is said to save 1 pmg,so if it's off,put it back on.Good luck with your mpg's,but I think your going to have to mess with gears.
hey Buster, thanks a lot. I still have the valance. I almost took it off a while back but I'm glad I didn't now.
I know your right about the noise buster. I definitely got on my last truck more after I redid the exhaust. I just loved the sound.
Do you run 50psi? I run 40psi all around and I'm thinking that 35 may be more appropriate for my truck's weight. That reminds me, Bill, have you considered going to something other than an M/T tire?
That valence is said to make that much of a difference? wow.
Do you run 50psi? I run 40psi all around and I'm thinking that 35 may be more appropriate for my truck's weight. That reminds me, Bill, have you considered going to something other than an M/T tire?
That valence is said to make that much of a difference? wow.
Yup, when I need tires I'm going to 30x9.5's in an A/T.
#40
I totally agree that the air dam does help. I had mine off for a few years and putting it back on helps.
Hey Bill, Why do you want to go to 30 9.50 tires? With 4.10 gears your RPMs will be even higher. It won't help fuel economy at all. Besides it will look goofy since you got a body lift.
My fuel economy is the same with the 31 10.50s as it was with the 255 70 15s
Hey Bill, Why do you want to go to 30 9.50 tires? With 4.10 gears your RPMs will be even higher. It won't help fuel economy at all. Besides it will look goofy since you got a body lift.
My fuel economy is the same with the 31 10.50s as it was with the 255 70 15s
#41
By the way, I think it's interesting people suggest I run a higher gear to keep the 300 in it's powerband.. It seems like mine pulls hard to 3,500 rpm. I manually downshifted the truck into second on a big hill yesterday and the truck really came alive, and I was pushing 3,000 rpm. Surprised me. From what people say, I would have more power at 2,000 rpm, not three.
Or is this simply all in the gears?
Or is this simply all in the gears?
#42
Skyfox, I run 40psi in mine,but if I were looking for every mpg,I'd jack it to 50 and sacrifice my aching back.I have seen the tread cupping on under inflated tires,so I try to keep close to mfger's suggested psi.You may regret lowering to 35 down the road,but find out what your tires are supposed to be at, might be just fine.
#43
Question
Do you have vacuum Gauge? We been discussed that before.
My F250 got 16 mpg now. If I didn't have vacuum gauge I maybe got 11-12 mpg.
Vacuum gauge tell how much you push on gas and not ever moving fast enough.
You should try. When you approach to hill Don't push more gas just try keep little speed like road say 45 but try go before 48 then leave pedal only it will slow to 40 when climb hill when you go down on hill lift your foot off gas it will increase speed.
That how I got little mpg from do that.
or keep F150 and get Escort or geo that will help you much.
Do you have vacuum Gauge? We been discussed that before.
My F250 got 16 mpg now. If I didn't have vacuum gauge I maybe got 11-12 mpg.
Vacuum gauge tell how much you push on gas and not ever moving fast enough.
You should try. When you approach to hill Don't push more gas just try keep little speed like road say 45 but try go before 48 then leave pedal only it will slow to 40 when climb hill when you go down on hill lift your foot off gas it will increase speed.
That how I got little mpg from do that.
or keep F150 and get Escort or geo that will help you much.
#44
I think there is some mileage to be found, in a smaller, lighter, milder tire. Like you said, it felt like the brakes were dragging after the larger tire... Going from 31's to 30's won't be too drastic of a change, but better on road manners, etc should be noticable. I felt a difference(in a bad way) going from 31" Timberline LT's to 31" BFG AT's... Heavier tire for sure.
How are other components? Fuel filter, air filter, ignition stuff? Any codes? It should be running fine on 87 octane.
Forgive me if I missed it, but what kinda' of mileage are you getting? Is your speedometer accurate?
How are other components? Fuel filter, air filter, ignition stuff? Any codes? It should be running fine on 87 octane.
Forgive me if I missed it, but what kinda' of mileage are you getting? Is your speedometer accurate?
#45
Skyfox, I run 40psi in mine,but if I were looking for every mpg,I'd jack it to 50 and sacrifice my aching back.I have seen the tread cupping on under inflated tires,so I try to keep close to mfger's suggested psi.You may regret lowering to 35 down the road,but find out what your tires are supposed to be at, might be just fine.
I suppose if it's unloaded then I would need less pressure. That's why I was thinking 35 all around. Match the rear to the front rather than run it up to 40 like I did on my last tire set. I had the inside tread wear out faster than the outside tread on my tires running 40 psi all around.