When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I have a questions(s) that has probally been answered on here a 100 times and I've searched through some of the old threads, but.....
After I replaced my hubs with Warn yesterday I realized my wheel bearings are bad... the vibration going down the road when you hit a bump and then quits when you hit another bump... yeah its fun times.. I got to searching for prices for a complete hub assembly and the price is up around $350... can you just replace the bearing in the hubs or do you have to buy the whole hub assembly? And I figure I might as well replace all ball joints, tie rod ends and cv joints, considering they are orginal and my truck has 240,000 miles on it... Does anyone sell a "kit" of some sorts for all ball joints, hubs/bearings, tie rod ends, and cv joints? I've checked out partsguyed.com and I see he has a ball joint kit... or does anyone have a part number for the hub assembly or just the bearing to replace? I'm pretty sure my truck does not have front ABS. And I'm thinking I will be spending up towards $1000, which is a killer because I was saving that money for mods....
Any help would be greatly appreciated. And if I haven't mentioned this before this is one the best sites that I've ever seen.
There is a needle bearing that is replaceable but the main bearing is not. You will unfortunatley have to replace the entire hub. I found mine at autopartswarehouse.com for less than $350 but I don't remember how much. Without ABS should be even cheaper.
On the ball joints, it is best to get a greaseable joint. Moog is a good brand if you don't end up going with Ed.
Thanks! Ok I have another "stupid" question.... Whats the name of the bearing at the end of the tubing, where the actual axle comes out of tubing into hub?
Josh, has the autopartswharehouse.com been good for you? Have they lasted?
I don't have any complaints about them. I think they do free shiping on hubs but it took 4-5 days to get them so if you are in a hurry they aren't the best option. Plus, once you sign up with them they send coupon codes all the time.
I have had on one hub for over 2 years now and it is still good. I bought the Timkin hubs, same thing all the local autoparts stores tried to sell me just for $50-100 less.
Make sure to do the ball joints and hubs at the same time and save yourself some $ by not having to replace the seals and orings twice like I did.
The large seal in the knuckle requires a special driver to put on but you can make one that will work with parts from a plumbing store. I took my front axles and seals into a Ford dealership and they put them on for $20. The real tool costs $100+ or about $20 to make plus some time cutting and grinding.
Thanks! Ok I have another "stupid" question.... Whats the name of the bearing at the end of the tubing, where the actual axle comes out of tubing into hub?
I think you might be thinking of the axle tube seal. I don't think there is a bearing there.
This is a good price for all these parts. I wish I would have found this back when I did mine (I probably have $1500 in parts). Plus the hassle of not having to order parts from all over and keep track of them is awesome.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.