heater removal
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 107
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From: Central IL
heater removal
the PO stuck an old chrysler heater in my '48 F1 w/ a 255. i plan on driving the thing only for warm-weather cruising, so i want to do away with the heater.
what do i need to do with the heater hoses? i can just plug them, right? would a simple bolt do? any idea what size i'll need?
what do i need to do with the heater hoses? i can just plug them, right? would a simple bolt do? any idea what size i'll need?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Best thing to do is to loop one hose from the outlet on the manifold to the water pump tube (as though you were taking th etwo hoses you have now, disconnecting them from the heater and hooking them together). Don't plug them.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 107
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From: Central IL
thanks, julie!
while i've got your attention, i have a question i'm sure you have experience with (being the resident electrical expert). i've heard that the ignition switch should have no more than 15a running through them, right? that doesn't seem nearly enough to run a 'switched' fuse panel. should i just put a hefty relay between the ignition switch and the switched fuse panel?
while i've got your attention, i have a question i'm sure you have experience with (being the resident electrical expert). i've heard that the ignition switch should have no more than 15a running through them, right? that doesn't seem nearly enough to run a 'switched' fuse panel. should i just put a hefty relay between the ignition switch and the switched fuse panel?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,173
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From: Burbank, WA
Don't stick a bolt in the end of the hose. A) It's not a good fix, B) It looks like crap. You can loop the hoses together like Julie said, but all that will do is pull hot water from the head and send it back into the water pump with the cold water. That certainly won't help your cooling ability. Better to do as HD74 suggested and remove the hoses and fittings altogether, and replace them with pipe plugs.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Don't stick a bolt in the end of the hose. A) It's not a good fix, B) It looks like crap. You can loop the hoses together like Julie said, but all that will do is pull hot water from the head and send it back into the water pump with the cold water. That certainly won't help your cooling ability. Better to do as HD74 suggested and remove the hoses and fittings altogether, and replace them with pipe plugs.
I'm not sure the 15 amp thing is that critical - never heard that. If you are converting to 12 volt it certainly isn't. I run my alternator charge to my hot fuse block then up to the ignition switch ("Batt" post) then out the "Acc" (accessory) post to the switched fuse panel. And it's been fine for 5 years now. I guess if you like extra unnecessary wiring, you could use a relay, but there's no reason to.
Food for thought also. You should have vacuum wipers in the 48 and you are pulling the heater out, then the only thing you should have that is switched is ignition, signal lights (if you don't have them wired hot), and the radio....everything else is off the hot bus AFAIK. Even if you put a heater back in it won't draw 15 amps!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,173
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From: Burbank, WA
Not sure how you come up with this theory. Are you saying all the vehicles that didn't come equipped with the optional heater destroyed water pumps at a regular interval, due to all the added pressure stress? Or how about the ones that did have the heater, with the valve shut off in the summer months?
