Just wanted to throw out a hi, newbie to this site and the older F100. My truck has a lot of rust, 390 and a C-6 (no idea what they came out of). Someone has replaced the bench seat with buckets and the shifter has been converted to a B&M. It has the round speedo and a dash pad. She is rough, but just what I wanted and that was more important!

I am curious if the dash pad can be removed and if it is solid metal under it. I would rather have a smooth painted dash. If anyone knows please share, have not been able to find it searching.

It is having an issue with the steering, when the column is bolted all the way up to the dash, it is not in line with the steering box and the rag joint binds, I have a feeling it is due to the rot on the front cab mounts. I am overhauling the brakes and will try to get the steering worked out so that it can be on the road by next week.

Not allowed to post attachments so here is a pic link

Thanks all, have a good weekend!

 

the dash is smooth metal underneath except in the area between the defroster ducts where its a mesh pattern to accomodate a speaker. It was punched like this on all of them whether there was a radio or not. The pads were glued on...some used next to none and some used a butt load of glue...and its very strong glue. if the pad isnt cracked, I would leave it...if its cracked to kingdom come you could get a dash cover...like 25-30 bucks last I heard. the trim is held in with spring clips easily removed too...but you gotta pull them to pull the pad as it holds the edges down front and rear...a philips screwdriver will work on the backside of the clip to undo them...use the length of the screwdrivers shaft to press in the center carefully and a groove will open as the clips popped outward which will keep the screwdriver on it...be careful starting though as if you slip the clip ends might bite you...its a light amt of spring tension. There is I think 5 clips on the long piece from the dash cluster to the glovebox door and 2 for the piece above the ignition switch...smaller clips were used for the rear molding...which is stainless as opposed to aluminum used on the front 2 moldings. same type of clips used on the rear molding...smaller clips though...keep the clips and trim if you dont plan on reusing them as Im sure somebody on here might want or need them.


If the cab mounts are bad...you can see looking at the rear of the front wheel wells...that would definately cause the rag joint to bind among other things...it would also affect clutch linkage functionality as well...Pics look pretty good of the 3 I saw...post other pics when you get a chance.



Good Luck and Welcome to FTE


- cs65

 

Thanks for all the initial info. Picked it up a week ago and tomorrow will be my first daylight chance to get in look at it and snap some detailed pics. I did look and at least one of the front mounts is bad, good news is that I am in Raleigh NC and Carolina Classics is a few miles down the road.

 

DC is in the area as well...

- cs65

 

Here are additional pictures of the initial cancer to be removed. I guess there will be some original metal when done. I also have a couple of pictures of the 390(?) and the rag joint I mentioned earlier. The problem was that the front cab mounts were completely rusted through and the cab was laying on the frame.Pictures

 

Better measure the stroke of that "390". Lots of 352's out there that sellers will tell you are something they are not.

 

Welcome aboard;