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My grandfather just gave me his old 87 ford f350 rollback with a 6.9 engine, it has a few bad glow plugs, but cranks after a few tries. So i'm not worried about it. It has over 300,000 miles on it and still runs like a tank. My question is what is the life span of these engines? He took real good care of the truck.
Next it is a rollback, and the bed still works good. But the bed is a little slow to me. I see it has a outside throttle cable on the bed to speed it up. I traced the cable but its not hooked up. Can someone please tell me where can I hook it to, or how is it supposed to be hooked up?
any motor that can make it 200K can make a million, just keep up with the maintenance and ahead of the repairs and know even if you have to do a rebuild in a couple years you'll still have less into it than a few months of payments on a newer truck, the idea that cars and trucks have a particular lifespan is pushed on us by the automakers who want to sell more new vehicles.
Next it is a rollback, and the bed still works good. But the bed is a little slow to me. I see it has a outside throttle cable on the bed to speed it up. I traced the cable but its not hooked up. Can someone please tell me where can I hook it to, or how is it supposed to be hooked up?
If this is a throttle cable, I would guess that the bed hydraulics are driven off a PTO driven pump off the tranny? If that is the case, the throttle cable should be hooked into the throttle linkage at the injector pump to allow you to speed it up a little. Use caution though, many PTO pumps don't like anything over a fast idle.
Rather than having the cable outside in the elements, you could also hook one up that goes into the cab. Set it when you engage the PTO, and hop out to run the deck.
Fast idle solonoid is already on your truck, you can just pickup a toggle switch and wire it manually, or you can use a double throw and get fancy with it, so it still works automatically.
If you live inthe rust belt I would rather have the solenoid than a cable.
The fast idle will not be real fast I think about the most I have heard of is about 1100 and it was modified, you will more than likely just get in the 900 rpm range.
The fast idle selonoid is on the passenger side of the pump. All you have to do is unhook the wire to it and run a new hot wire to it via a manual toggle switch.
If you want it for some reason to still be automatic use a double through switch with a hot wire running to one side and the original wire from the temp switch to the other side and the wire to the selonoid to the center. then if you flip the switch to the hot side it works manually, if you leave it switched to the other side it will work when the motor is cold. No danger to the motor or the electronics.
No diodes and no picture. I would fuse the hot side though. There was a thread not to long ago that had a hand drawing kinda, but I don't remember the title.
The fast idle will not be real fast I think about the most I have heard of is about 1100 and it was modified, you will more than likely just get in the 900 rpm range.
Yeps, that would be me with the 1100 rpm idle, and yes I had to modify the bracket for the solenoid so it hits the throttle arm at a lower position thus giving me more turn of the arm per solenoid plunger throw - the plunger throw is fixed so that's about the only way you can get more engine speed out of it, short of setting you low idle speed at say 800 rpms and adjusting your plunger to match that which would produce up to 1100 rpms too but with an unmodified bracket.
Originally Posted by andrew1
do i need diodes? do you have a picture of this mod
Depends how you wire the switch up, the way mine is done I did use a diode, but if you cut the solenoid wire close to its plug and then wire it up like in that diagram you found then you do not need a diode.
Originally Posted by andrew1
This is what I found on here , is this what you are talking about? Should i do it exactly like this?
That would work just fine, you basically extend your current solenoid feed wire into the cab and to the switch and then run another wire from the switch back to the solenoid, twist these two together along the way to make a neater harness.
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