Having some kinda weird electrical issue with my 07 F250 Super Duty 6.0L PowerStroke. When I put the key in the ignition and turn it to RUN the entire electrical system starts freaking out turning on and off and the lights start flickering on and off etc. I can also hear relays that are under the dash and under the hood in the fuse compartments rapidly clicking on and off. This is all happening with just the key in run, then if I try to start it it just clicks like there is no juice in the batteries but both batteries are fine. Once I turn the key to off then everything goes back to normal.

Here is a video I took that should hopefully explain things a little better. I shot it real late tonight so everything is really dark but you should get the point. Basically I turn the key to RUN and leave it sit there and everything is just flickering on and off. Then I try to start it and it just clicks rapidly like when your battery is dead. I turn the key to OFF and the dome lights and everything else goes back to normal. The headlights are bright as hell, the alarm still works, if I turn the key backwards to ACCESSORY mode my radio and everything else works etc.

CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO!!

I have checked every damn fuse that is under the dash and under the hood. Didn't find anything blown. I also pulled the 601 circuit breaker which didn't change things either. I am not sure what else I can check to fix the issue...?

 

That is pretty freaky, you definitely have a wiring harness or dash cluster issue. It could be as simple as a ground issue or broken wire in the steering column. Any squirrel's been in your truck lately

 

Do a system reset.

Follow the link below...

 

Whoa!

The truck went Toyota!


Anytime someone buy a new (used) truck, I am now "off the shelf" recommending a complete system reset to clear "pre-existing" gremlins.


The most likely cause is nothing more than a Body Control Module that have gone funky, or PCM, etc.


Before doing any diagnostics, do the reset first.

Disconnect both batteries, turn on headlamp switch to discharge the capacitors that hold the "memory" and wait 15 minutes.


While the reset is being done (battery disconnected) check to make sure batteries are in good shape.

Low battery voltage can also cause a truck to go Toyota.

If the batteries are good.. charge them up.. then reconnect.


You will be amazed what problems go away.

 

Depending on your truck's in service date if you have under 36k miles you may still be under warranty.

 

Good point Steve!

But if your truck goes Toyota on you, probably the most urgent need is to get it to go normal....

Or it is tow truck time...

And F-250s are not cheap to tow to the nearest Ford dealer.. even if warranty covers it.

 

1st thing I would check would be battery connections and all grounds. If the batteries are good that sure looks like a flaky ground to me.

 

I have seen similar type behavior with a CAN Bus failure with the dash unit. It was on a buddy's truck. He also had the condition where the dash lights would not brighten or dim when the dimming switch was used. I hooked Auto Enginuity up to his truck and got several CAN Bus errors for the dash, ignition, and can't remember what the other was. We took the dash panel out, cleaned and reseated all the contacts, put it back together, and the condition went away. The codes in Auto Enginuity went away too. All I can think of was a loose connection somewhere in or behind the dash that we ended up tightening back up.

 

Yup. That is how I solved the same type of problem...

See my link below... documenting it.

Complete dash, instrument panel removal, cleaning...

Use compressed air to blow out 250,000 miles of dust and dirt, and corrosive stuff from the dash.

Cleaned and lubed all contacts...

 

The reason I was thinking batteries or ground is not only the blinking lights but also the no start with no clicking noise.

 

Yup. Right on.

That is why I suggested charging the battery.

Followed by your step (check contacts and ground).


When the supply voltage drops below normal, there is suppose to be a standard routine to gradually cut out power to "non essential" devices.

So the accessories / bling bling like heated seats go in a hurry.

Then the AC, then Instrument panel... etc.



However, the low voltage also have a high probability of causing a electrical glitch.


Hence the "reset".

 

Sure would be nice to hear from the OP to find out what he found........

 

Yeah it would...

 

Went and had the batteries load tested and it turns out that they were both bad. New batteries solved the issues! Thanks guys!

 

Great!

Right up there in my fault chart!