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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #1  
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Rust Pits

Hi,

I am in the process of removing rust with a wire wheel. The problem I have is that once I remove the rust to the metal, I can see rust pits. What is the best way to "fill in" the pits?

My dad suggested I use body filler to fill them in. I have seen people on here use spray paint to fill them in. Our concern is that when the truck is painted, the pits will show through.

Do I also need to neutralize the rust?

I thought that if I stripped the rust down to the bare metal and spray painted it with some rust-o-leum primer, that would be enough to stop future rust. My dad says I should buy some rust neutralizer to cover the stripped off rust so we won't have future rust problems down the road after we have have the truck painted.

Any suggestions would be great.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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If it's small pits in the body of the truck I'd use body filler, but if they are big pits and a lot of them you might want to think about cutting that piece out, it all just depends on how deep the pits are and how many you have, also sanding it down to bar metal and priming is fine, but if you want to use some rust neutralizer just to make sure that's up to you. Most people use rust neutralizer to spray on a small rust hole or some really bad surface rust to stop it from growing till they can get it sanded down or cut out.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I bought some rust-o-leum black primer that should cover up the bare metal. I will start taking some more rust off to see what else I am dealing with. If I read the post correctly, as long as I cover the bare metal up with primer, you are saying that it shouldn't rust through the primer.

Please correct me if I am wrong, as this is my first time dealing with rust.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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Yup if it's bare clean metal you should be fine......is the rust-o-leum you got auto primer or is it just metal primer....read the back of the can to make sure it can be used on auto bodies so when you go to paint over it you won't have any fish eyes or lifting. Good luck!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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I tried to buy the black primer, but the store was out. They suggested flat protective enamel and said it was similar. I should be able to use that on the truck to cover the metal. Not sure if the paint would cover the pitting well enough. I will try the body filler though.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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You need to first neutralize the rust pits, wire wheels won't get it good enough. Then you need self etching primer, Rustoleum? Don't even bother. Primer is not water proof, it will just soak up moisture and continue to rust the same or more than bare metal.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:13 AM
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X2 on neutralizing the rust. Place a paper towel w/ over the treated portion moistened with Ospho or whatever and watch it work. Then use All-Metal filler for the pits. If you don't kill the rust it will pop back thru the paint and also will rust under the polyester filler. I dig out filler all the time that has rusted underneath and come loose. The All-metal filler is imbedded with aluminum.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 78_f800crewcab4x4
Rustoleum? Don't even bother. Primer is not water proof
How can that be?.....I know someone that lives 2 blocks from me that has had his GTO in primer for well over 10 years and it has no rust at all....like I said as long as it is auto primer it should be fine.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:51 AM
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Ten years and no rust would have to be a 2K primer (epoxy primer) as regular primer will draw moisture.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Alright sorry all I ever use is epoxy primer...I wasn't even thinking about any other kinds...my mistake.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Epoxy primer is the stuff! I was referring to regular primers. I would check the UV resistance of epoxy primer-it is designed to be painted over. Epoxies yellow and chalk up if not covered by urethane or latex.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Hi,

I like all the suggestions that y'all are giving. I am new to removing rust and such. I have a few questions though.

Originally Posted by 78_f800crewcab4x4
You need to first neutralize the rust pits, wire wheels won't get it good enough. Then you need self etching primer, Rustoleum? Don't even bother. Primer is not water proof, it will just soak up moisture and continue to rust the same or more than bare metal.
I assume you are talking about wire wheels, grinders, and other rust removal in general.

What brand of rust neutralizer do you recommend?

What brand of self etching primer is good?


Originally Posted by gfw1985
X2 on neutralizing the rust. Place a paper towel w/ over the treated portion moistened with Ospho or whatever and watch it work. Then use All-Metal filler for the pits. If you don't kill the rust it will pop back thru the paint and also will rust under the polyester filler. I dig out filler all the time that has rusted underneath and come loose. The All-metal filler is imbedded with aluminum.
What is Ospho? What is all-metal filler? Which filler is a good brand?

Thanks,
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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Hi,

I'd been thinking about all of your suggestions and googled the products that y'all mentioned and found out that Ospho is a rust inhibitor. Summit Racing sells the Rust Bullet and Por15 at the store. I am thinking about going by and getting a quart of Rust Bullet to try.

How would I go about prepping for the Rust Bullet?

I read several opinions about it, some stating that I can just apply it over the rust. Is it better to remove all the rust down to the metal and pits before applying it?

Thanks,
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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I cant remember the brand, but there are rust "converters" that you spray or brush on, leave wet for a short period, then wash off with water, then dry. It turns the rust into a zinc rich primer that can be painted over. I would use the epoxy primer directly over that, then a skim coat of filler. Check out Eastwood, they have everything, and are a sponsor.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #15  
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Hi,

I did some research on the rust converters last week and found that Eastwood sells Rust Converter for 29.99/qt. I also saw some other stuff by the name of Gemplers Rust Converter. I think the Gempler's is cheaper, but mostly used on farm equipment. Has anyone else ever used Gempler's? I like the way the Eastwood's Rust converter looks after it has dried in that it leaves the surface a black color, so you know what you have applied the converter to.

Thanks,
 
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