i just put a new edelbrock intake and edelbrock 600cfm carb on my 1976 360. when the truck is idling it runs perfect and even when i put it in gear, but when im goin down the road i can only barely give it gas or else it starts acting up, idk if id call it boggin down or studerin. i cleaned the carb out and that didnt really do anything so any suggestions would help.

 

Have you checked with Edelbrock to see if they have any FAQ section?

One thing that is often overlooked when upgrading a carb is the fuel pump. You'll need to make sure it has the proper output and pressure for your carb.

 

The stock pump will work fine for that carburetor. This sounds like a vacuum leak; you need to put a vacuum gauge on it while it's idling and see what the needle does. FYI - "cleaning out" the carburetor by spraying it out with a can of carburetor cleaner like many people do usually causes more harm than good - the proper way to clean a carburetor is with a gallon can of Chem Dip, compressed air, and the spray can used only as a final step.

 

ill check with edelbrock and see what kind of psi i should have and check that also thanks fmc i didnt know that but will take it into consideration, though ive never used or have a vaccum guage so i dont really know how to use one

 

Here are some things to check:

Check all vacuum hose connections. Hoses get brittle or break. Even the slightest leak can make the truck fall on its face.

Spray your carb cleaner at the carb's base and at different mating surfaces like the throttle shafts. You can also use a small propane bottle with a hose attached to the nozzle... you only need a slight trickle of gas. Don't go whole hog...remember ideal AFR is 14.7:1 with gasoline. If the idle increases, then you have found at least one vacuum leak.

Check for a clogged fuel filter or filter installed in reverse flow.

Fuel pump pressure should be around 6-8 psi. My 390FE uses a 600cfm carb and it runs really well. Mileage sucks but that's not why we have these trucks.

 

Well yesterday i checked my fuel filter and it was completley brown on the inside with the bottom full of junk so i replaced it and today the new one already looks like the old. So my question now is should i spend the $102.00 at advance on a new tank or is there a cheaper way to get the rust out of the tank i have?

 

Well, if you replace the tank, you're obviously gonna have to drop the old one anyway, so it wouldn't hurt to try and clean it first. There are several products to coat the inside of fuel tanks but I don't know how good they are at cleaning up / stopping rust. It would be worth researching before you put that kind of money in a new one.

 

Dunno how well it works, but Eastwood sells a kit for $49.99 that is supposed to clean out and seal a tank. Might be worth trying.

 

i've known of guys using water and rocks and clean it out that way. POR makes a gas tank sealer kit. i had a kink in my stock fuel line that the PO had done accidentily and that killed my motor when the secondaries opened up. ran a new steel line and its an entirely different beast.

 

well i dont think 102 is a bad price and i really dont wana spent 50 on a cleaner that might not work, ill go to advance today and see what they got, just might replace some rubber lines why im at it

 

so i dropped my tank and it actually aint rusted so i cleaned it out, the gas in it was brown and the sending unit was almost clogged so i replaced it. put it back together and put a new fuel filter on it and now its as if my pump aint pumping enough or somethin. i have a clear filter on it and its not even filling up a quarter of the way with gas so im still not getting enough gas while driving.im thinking of either trying an electric pump or maybe im just sucking in air in the line somewhere.

 

Well I am new to this site but have been on many others like it, for boating. Now I have no idea what level of knowledge the OP has in the mechanical end. So I will try to go over the basics first.
My Father taught me that when you fix a problem and another turns up, go and fix what you just broke. It is possible you have a low fuel pressure issue, but air in a glass filter doesn't tell you that. Mine may have a little air but normally not. Lets look at what was done. We replaced an intake and carb with an edelbrock settup. (Have the same on a 302 in a F-100) A stock pump working properly will keep a 600 CFM carb on a 302 just happy as she can be. We removed the distributor. Messed up the timing, then re-wired the fireing order properly? Check there, but heres the other thing nobody caught. The Vaccume advance hose, where is it connected to on the new carb. The fitting that pulls vaccume all the time or the other one that pulls vaccume when you crack the throttle? On that Carb there are 2. Make sure you get the one that works with the open throttle. NOT THE CONSTANT. You should be able to see if the vac advance works with the timing light. Soon as you touch the throttle, the timing mark will move momentarrilly. I think you trouble is there but the fuel pump could be bad still.

 

Did you try to blow out the fuel lines while you had it apart?

 

yea i blew the lines out and i have the vac advance on the passenger side of the carb which from what i read should be correct but i might swap em to see if theres a difference, as of pressure im goin to put a pressure guage on it tomorrow so i can rule the pump out or replace it. also my timing isnt perfect, its just done by ear right now, im still waitin on a friend to bring his over

 

I am leaning in agreement with the earlier reply to your post. Based on your idle, being by your calculations, perfect, I think your carb and intake install are fine. I'd test or have somebody check your fuel pump. Another post told you to check your vacuum lines....you should do that also concurrently.

I recently installed a new Holley carburetor on my 1976 Ford F100 2WD 302 cid and had many of the same problems as you have described. The culprit, for me, was a fuel pump diaphragm that went out after the carb change. There was also a telltale smell of gasoline and a leak that dribbled down the fuel pump. I just replaced the whole pump and installed it. The overall performance improved across the board. I concur with the earlier post that people overlook this when upgrading the carb.

Be careful and work safe. Because you are working with gasoline, I'd hate to see you do anything that was harmful to you or your truck. Good luck.