NO start HOT
#1
NO start HOT
I know this has been talked about a bunch of times and I'm having trouble finding the links. Anyway, truck starts fine cold(oil thick) drive truck and turn it off (oil thin) truck won't start. I check the HPOP regularly and this time it is low. So I top it off and it still won't start til it cools off. I haven't put a gauge on either side nor blocked off either line from it yet because I don't have a gauge not the fittings. Who has this gauge/ what type of gauge should I use? And what type of fittings are they that are needed? I also am wondering if it is the ICP or the IPR. I am only speculating here I am NOT the trained professional like alot of ya'll. Because two of the codes I have had are p1212 yesterday when the truck quit and wouldn't start and the fuel station. And p0603 today and the mechanic's garage who put a snap on scanner on it. I hope I covered alot of the questions. Oh one more thing I have removed the fuel bowl heater and checked all of the fuses all are good.
#2
I know this has been talked about a bunch of times and I'm having trouble finding the links. Anyway, truck starts fine cold(oil thick) drive truck and turn it off (oil thin) truck won't start. I check the HPOP regularly and this time it is low. So I top it off and it still won't start til it cools off. I haven't put a gauge on either side nor blocked off either line from it yet because I don't have a gauge not the fittings. Who has this gauge/ what type of gauge should I use? And what type of fittings are they that are needed? I also am wondering if it is the ICP or the IPR. I am only speculating here I am NOT the trained professional like alot of ya'll. Because two of the codes I have had are p1212 yesterday when the truck quit and wouldn't start and the fuel station. And p0603 today and the mechanic's garage who put a snap on scanner on it. I hope I covered alot of the questions. Oh one more thing I have removed the fuel bowl heater and checked all of the fuses all are good.
#3
#4
I really dont know, but if I were you, I first clean well the IPR, change the o-rings and test it. If it works, fine, I saved some $$$$$$$$$$$$, if not, buy a new one.
#7
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#9
#10
what is that sensor thing that screws into the back of the hpop? Roentgeep thanks for the pics. I ordered the o ring kit from international today it will be in when I get off work. So this oring kit I am getting please explain where they go. I was under the impression I would be removing the IPR and putting these o rings on that. I'm confused a bit now. Do they go on the high pressure lines or on the IPR?
#11
Ok, on the first pic, i think you spotted it, the metal looking thing poking out the back on the drivers side with a little sheet metal nut on the end of it and a black plastic plug on the top. That is the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR). It is the valve that regulates the high pressure oil pumps pressure. It has o-rings on it to seal the pressure side from the drain side of the valve. If the o-rings start to leak, it leaks oil by bypassing the valve, therefore dropping pressure below what it is supposed to be. Usually the oil, when hot, is thin enough to flow faster through the bad spot in the o-ring, causing more pressure loss when hot, hence no start.
The sheet metal nut is 3/4" nut that holds the coil on the valve. Remove the nut, unplug the coil (or don't, sometimes retrieving the coil is easier with it plugged in since you can pull it out of there with the wires). and remove the coil.
The valve requires a deep 1 1/8" socket the break loose after the coil is off. It unscrews by hand usually after it is broken loose and then rotated a few degrees with the tool.
If the o-rings don't have any bad spots, its probably not the leaking o-rings. Put them on anyway and see. Like [B]funzjb1[B] said, maybe it'll fix it. I have never seen good looking o-rings not work though.
If you still have the problem, you have the chore of figuring out if its the IPR, the high pressure pump, or the injector o-rings.
The sheet metal nut is 3/4" nut that holds the coil on the valve. Remove the nut, unplug the coil (or don't, sometimes retrieving the coil is easier with it plugged in since you can pull it out of there with the wires). and remove the coil.
The valve requires a deep 1 1/8" socket the break loose after the coil is off. It unscrews by hand usually after it is broken loose and then rotated a few degrees with the tool.
If the o-rings don't have any bad spots, its probably not the leaking o-rings. Put them on anyway and see. Like [B]funzjb1[B] said, maybe it'll fix it. I have never seen good looking o-rings not work though.
If you still have the problem, you have the chore of figuring out if its the IPR, the high pressure pump, or the injector o-rings.
#13
#14
I agree with what stated above. The sensor you are asking for is the OTS (oil temp sensor).
Here is the IPR along and squematic. FYI the edge filter only is for earlier IPR IIRC, if not some body will chime in later.
also check this links:
IPR rebuild pictures from trucks photos on webshots
IPR1 pictures from trucks photos on webshots
Here is the IPR along and squematic. FYI the edge filter only is for earlier IPR IIRC, if not some body will chime in later.
also check this links:
IPR rebuild pictures from trucks photos on webshots
IPR1 pictures from trucks photos on webshots