Electric systems are not that hard. I just fab'ed up mine last weekend. The hardest part is making sure you have all of your fittings.


I did mine for about $500 less than what the kits cost.

 

Beans kit replaces everything right down to the fittings in the head. It is the most complete kit I have seen. It replaces every line from the selector valve up to the motor and back. And I mean EVERYTHING!

 

There we go, Neal is finally talking about it!

 

Not much to talk about. Here it is:

Location: /Fuel Systems/(1994-1997) 7.3L/Power Stroke
94-97 Power Stroke Complete Single Pump Fuel System



Product Information
BDP Complete Single Pump Fuel System
Bean's Diesel Performance custom fuel system replaces the entire fuel system from the tank selector forward. It comes with Stanadyne filters, one 150 micron prefilter, and one 5 micron final filter; both with water separators. The pump is an electric 99+ PSD pump. Also comes with new Aeromotive regulator, oil pressure shut off switch, relay along with all needed hoses, fittings and wires. Clear sediment bowls for the water separators and 150w fuel heaters are also available. This kit is also available with dual pumps for larger injector applications.




Beans Diesel Performance - 94-97 Power Stroke Complete Single Pump Fuel System (Powered by CubeCart)

 

im a little late but i had been wondering about that fuel pump plunger. i was at work the other day in a machine thinking if that thing could fall in the motor why cant i just tun over the motor till the lobe was up than it couldnt fall. but i havnt had one off before i was just imaging what its like. im sure mine has to be changed soon. the whole valley is full of fuel and leaking from everything. plus im sure that thing dosent make much pressure. im gonna check it later with a tire guage what woul.d be a good pressure 30-70 i know thats a big differnce but ive heard they can be anywhere in between.

 

Just built mine as well. About $400 into the reg return and post pump filter setup. Running a Walbro fuel pump and an AirDog between selector valve and pump. Those last 2 were the most expensive parts. With everything, I've got just over $1100 into my system.

Will get pics up sometime soon.

 

The reason I always wanted you to talk about it neal was just the install and what was in it and what you think of the install, blah blah blah, how it works.

Thats all. I was gonna just buy the beans system myself until I found out you can get everything yourself for cheaper. but the beans system is the way I would go personally.

The thing I like most about a build your own kit is that you can choose your filter setup better. but the super duty pump and the aeromotive reg are the way to go otherwise.

 

As you saw Ryan built his own and has $1100 in his. Alot of the people I have talked to that built their own said they would just do the Beans if they were to do it again.
Some have been able to build theirs for $600-$700 but ask them if it was a headache. Some may say no butr most will say yes.

Now my brother built his own but he has free access to all the fittings and hoses. All for pretty much free. Plus he helped me install mine so he had some experience with it.

Some things I didn't like about the CPR is they use a 2 micron pre pump filter and a 100 micron post pump filter. That just sounds backward to me. What if the pump goes bad and introduces particles in the line. 100 micron is way larger than the factory filter, just a thought. Another thing is the CPR is $200 more than Beans system for our OBS trucks.

just my $.02

Do your research for sure guys before you just go and buy what everybody else likes/uses.

 

Agreed. I'm a DIY guy so even it it's a headache (which it was), I'd still go that route then buy a pre-made kit. But that's just me. Mine would have been $500 cheaper if I would have went with a simple spin-on pre-pump filter instead of the AD. But I wanted to go big!

The Reg return portion of the build was pretty easy cause I originally built it for my SD. So had everything covered down to the framerails. The challenging part was the plumbing/mounting on the frame. Got it figured out though. I'm not a huge fan of the pre-made kits and how they mount. It's really jumbled together and hangs way too far below the frame if you as me. But since mine's a CC-LB-2wd, I had plenty of room to space things out.

OT: Can you only attach pics if you are a supporter? I no longer use my Webshots account because of a virus I aquired from there. It crashed my work computer before I realized what was going on. Not sure if I wanna try photobucket because I've heard it can sometimes cause trouble too. I wanna get my project and progress posted up but haven't due to the pic attachment thing.

 

Well guys I am lost on the 'Regulated Return' part of the system. Thats whats got me lost. As for the headache... I already have one so why not just do it this way. Plus I may just gather the parts a little at a time and just do it that way. But once I got this understood a little better, I will write it out and have you guys check over it, make sure its right. I like the 'DIY' part of things. Yeah it may take longer, plus you do save money, but I love to make things my own. Anyway can buy a kit and put it on, but few can build. Plus I just love doing this kind of things. Anyways, please explain what I need to do about the regulated return, and pictures would help cause the guides I read lose me at times.

 

I'm in the no category. The only headache I got was my next day fuel leak.

I did a ton of research before I even started removing anything with my setup. Being in a highly agricultural part of the country, fittings are extremely easy to come by as well.

I'd rather save $500 and keep the pride in my custom fab'ed setup than paying for a kit... but thats me.

I have good shop resources and access to about anything I could need. The kits are definitely the way to go if you don't have the time or resources to do it yourself.

I'll take some pictures of my setup this weekend. The return is pretty straight forward. The only difficult part of it is bending/cutting the existing return line that goes back to the selector valve?

So the BDP kit replaces the hard lines on the frame? Are the using 3/8" lines in that kit?

 

Here is a website of a guy that did what looks like the diy electric fuel pump Tims I/C Page example

 

I was looking at the CPR setup and the issue you are talking about with fine particulate matter from the pump is solved by the CPR system leaving the stock fuel bowl/filter assembly in place. You can purchase for another $200 or something, the fuel bowl delete system to compliment their CPR system. This system places another fine particulate matter filter, if I remember correctly, in between the CPR system 100 micron filter and the injector rails. It's kind of retarded if you ask me, and ends up costing you like 1600 after all is said and done.

 

I am doing some searching anyways I found a fuel regulator that is cheaper (Its at summitracing) but instead of it being 6AN its 8AN, and I assume its smaller then the 6, would the 8AN do well? Cause I want to build this fuel system to accomidate future upgrades like big injectors, etc. I am doing this for PERFORMANCE reasons, on a BUDGET (They do it all the time in magazines, so why can't I?) anyways. Hope to hear some more. I appreciate you guys helping me. God Bless you all.

 

-8AN is bigger