I previously had a thread on this forum because I could
not get my 94 7.3L started after it sat for several months.

I installed a rebuilt I/P and after a bit of bleeding and a
lot of cranking, I got it to start. I then drove it 30 miles
to a new location. I started it several times over a 3 day
period without incident. It seemed perfect and ran great during
the trip. Then I let it sit for over a month while I worked on
some other problems like the turn signals. This is a project
truck I plan to use later.

Recently after putting in cooling additive, I tried to run it to
circulate the additive. It wouldn't start. I figured maybe a
check valve might be slowly leaking through at the lift pump
letting in some air. I then installed a small filter and an
electric pump in series with and after the lift pump. I wired it through
a rocker switch directly to B+ so I could run it before I
operated the glow plugs and cranked. I figured that would push
out any air through the I/P overflow. I have great flow now
into the final main fuel filter and I bled any air out of the
schrader when I first ran the electric pump. The starter cranks
well but still no start. Either something isn't working in the
fuel system like I expected it to, or the glow plugs aren't
working right.

During the trouble shooting I did before I put in the new I/P,
I had checked all 8 glow plugs for low resistance and they
checked good. I also felt some of them for warmth after cranking
and they felt warm. I haven't started checking the glow plug
system yet since the latest no start problem. It seems strange
that it started with no problems just after I moved the truck, but
now it won't work and with the same symptoms I had after sitting for
long periods last time.

Previously, while I had all the glow plug leads off for bleeding the
air after the I/P installation, I had checked for voltage at each
plug and had 12V. I assume the glow plug system also must have been
good during the good starts last month. I realize that with the leads
off it was a no load check but it means I have continuity.

I don't think I have the connector that has been mentioned in other
"no start" threads but I could be wrong. I'll make a thorough look for
it when I get back on the truck. I have some other fires to put out
and then I'm going to do a voltage drop under load check across the
relay and the plug wiring to see if I have a bad connection.

Any input from you guys? Could I still have a fuel problem?

 

do u hear the gp controler click

 

Yes and the voltmeter in the panel takes a dive indicating large current usage and then it starts to swing back and forth from 12V to about 8V for a few cycles, then stops cycling. I don't have an WTC light. You have to use the volt meter to tell when the cycling stops. I believe the heat time is about 10 sec.

 

any pools of fuel

 

No leaks anywhere to be seen.

 

Do you have any idea how much fuel pressure is going to the IP?

7 PSI is about the most you want to see, more than that starts affecting the timing.

 

Are you trying to crank it after the first cycle, or you waiting for the after glo to stop cycling altogether.

 

I let the cycling stop before I crank.

There is a possibility that with both the standard lift pump and the electric fuel pump in series, that there will be more than 7 PSIG of fuel pressure. My original fuel pump prior to the I/P change was putting out 6 PSIG all by itself. If I find any problems after the engine starts, I will turn off the electric pump but right now the engine won't start with or without the new pump running.

 

Tou generally want to crank it as soon as the first cycle of the plugs klicks off, clicking off and on is the afterglo for when it is running. The plugs will be hottest when they click off after the first long glo, if they are working properly.

 

That suggestion is quite interesting.

I was instructed by the guy that sold me the truck that since there is no WTC light, that I should watch the volt meter cycle and when it quits, crank. I have never tried to crank it before the cycling stopped. It's sure worth a try.

 

Star's correct.

Turn the key on, when you hear it click the first time (when the amp meter shows no draw), Start it!

Don't wait for it to quit cycling.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~