Pickup in my sig. ECM is out of a 95
Started running rough, yesterday I noticed it running different lower in the RPMs. It never really has liked driving from 1000 to 1800 or so after that it runs good. But in that range it kinda bucks a bit and surges.
I ran the codes and got these:

511 - read only memory test failure - no idea what this is
638 - trans oil temp - doesnt matter I have a 5 speed
565 - canister purge solenoid circuit failure - is this part of the smog? all mine is gone
652 - trans over temp - ignore also

157 - MAF sensor fault under voltage
158 - MAF sensor fault over voltage
211 - Profile Input Pickup circuit fault - this is in the distributor isnt it? Put a new one in when I put the engine in, its got like 350 miles on it now

Is there anything I can do to the MAF and PIP or is is just replace them situation?

What is the Read only memory?

 

TTT..........................?

 

I can't help you on everything but here's what I can tell you-

The canister purge solenoid is part of the smog system. I believe it's located just off the throttle body- you should see it attached to a small chunk of hose and it's just kind of hanging there, not really secured by anything. But if you removed the smog system, it could be throwing that code because the solenoid is no longer hooked up.

Yes, the PIP is in the distributor but I don't know if it can be replaced.

You can test the MAF sensor, but by looking in my service manual, it looks like you may need a special tool to do it- either that or it's one of the self test connector part # but I don't know that for sure. Either way, here's the step by step procedure, word for word as outlined in my Chilton service manual.

1) Make sure the ignition key is off.
2) Connect Breakout Box T83L-50-EEC-IV or equivalent, to the PCM harness and connect the PCM.
3) Start the engine and let it idle. [It doesn't specify but I'm thinking you'll need the engine up to temp.]
4) Use a voltmeter to measure the voltage between test pin 50 of the Breakout Box and the battery negative post.
5) Replace the MAF sensor if the voltage is not 0.36-1.50 volts.

Hope this helps. I'm sure others will chime in with other things to look at- I'm not very experienced with the MAF system.

 

So I went to the FFI site and using that I tested the voltage between the MAF pin D and the MAF Rtn pin C and got 1.54 volts at idle. What voltage should I be reading?
This was done when the pickup was pretty much warmed up and about 50 degrees out.

Anyone help on the PIP and Read only Memory too?

Thanks DBGRIF91 for the info I wont worry about it then, have to see if the tuning shop can turn that off when I go get it tuned up.

 

By the way, I just realized I was wrong about the canister purge solenoid. It has to do with the manifold vacuum system, not the smog system, so you may want to get that double checked.

 

Well I cleaned my MAF with some crc cleaner and drove it down the road. died on me and wont start now, had to tow it back to the house.
So I guess Ill pick a new one up and see if that fixes it.

Still need to know about the PIP and the Read Only Memory. Anybody chime in on these?

 

Please?

 

When I suspected the pip sensor/stator assembly in my '95 it was pointed out to me that it was more of a pain in the *** to disassemble and test the assembly than to replace the distributor and the assembly as one piece. I believe that I paid about $160 for a new distributor with a new pip sensor as well. Price would probably be cheaper wherever you are because of the higher Alaskan prices. Hope that helps.

Schwinn

 

Oh yeah, when I got my first distributor it had the wrong oil pump shaft on it and ended up pulling the oil pump shaft out of the oil pump. This is a major major pain in the ***. If you do go this route be sure to check the pump shaft on the new distributor against the shaft on the old one, just in case someone was inattentive at the rebuild shop.

Schwinn

 

So I ordered a new MAF sensor and it came in today so I threw it on and no change, just cranks over but wont fire.

So what are the PIP and ROM issues? Are those causing it? Should I throw a new distributor at it even though its only got less than 400 miles on it?

 

So I pulled a plug wire and checked for spark, none.
Took the distributor out and the gear is shot, totally chewed up. Looked down at the cam and it looked good still.
What would cause it to get chewed up so bad?
Searched around on here and saw a mention of later engines using a steel gear and earlier using a cast iron one. Would that cause it?
It was still under warranty so the parts shop is gonna switch it out for another one, should I get steel one this time?
The engine in it was a long block I ordered and Im not sure what year block it is. It doesnt have a spot for the dipstick in the block, if that helps

 

I just went through PIP and distributor gear issues, so...

My dist drive gear was brass as it turned out - and worn out, causing complete engine shut-down. We pulled the dist and found the worn brass gear, not knowing what camshaft was in the engine. If it was the stock roller cam, the cam gear would have been steel, which would have ground down the brass dist gear and explained the problem. If it was an aftermarket cam/gear, that would explain why someone would install a softer metal (brass) drive gear. But we didn't know what cam was in it, so we guessed stock and used a remanufactured dist with a steel gear. Hope this guess pans out.

To make matters worse, the reman (new) distributor had a bad PIP. Yes, you have to remove the distributor, pull the gear and sleeve, slide out the shaft... and replace the PIP sensor - which are available individually.

 

I replaced the MAF and the distributor, I put a MSD bronze gear on it.
I cleared the codes and drove it around, its still not running that great, surging at light throttle, have to rev it more than usual and drag the clutch to get it to go and not die form a stop.
Read the codes again and got these this time:


511 - read only memory test failure - no idea what this is
638 - trans oil temp - doesnt matter I have a 5 speed
565 - canister purge solenoid circuit failure
652 - trans over temp - ignore also
10
158 - MAF sensor fault over voltage
638 - trans oil temp - doesnt matter I have a 5 speed

The only ones that Im worried about are in bold. Im pretty sure that the canister purge solenoid isnt on my truck any more. Looks like this right?
If thats it then its def gone, hasnt bee hooked up since Ive owned the pickup.

I just replaced the MAF, so why is it still throwing a code?

Can someone please tell me what the Read Only Memory code is all about?