Oilly Foam
#1
03-18-2010, 01:14 PM
Oilly Foam
I am not happy. 
I took the valve cover off of my 55 272 Y-Block and there it was! I had the engine running to check for adequate oil flow to the rockers, but what I saw was ugly!! On one of the #4 cylinder valves oilly foam was coming out of a hair-line crack. I believe that it is coolant coming out and turning to foam. This obviously is contaminating my oil as the foam runs down and through the oil drain in the bottom of the head.
My question is:
Should I replace the head or try some type of block seal like BARS Leak. Has anybody tried any of the block seals on one of these old engines?
Jag
I took the valve cover off of my 55 272 Y-Block and there it was! I had the engine running to check for adequate oil flow to the rockers, but what I saw was ugly!! On one of the #4 cylinder valves oilly foam was coming out of a hair-line crack. I believe that it is coolant coming out and turning to foam. This obviously is contaminating my oil as the foam runs down and through the oil drain in the bottom of the head.
My question is:
Should I replace the head or try some type of block seal like BARS Leak. Has anybody tried any of the block seals on one of these old engines?
Jag
#2
03-18-2010, 01:35 PM
Maybe, …….but I would make sure that it is coolant first. If it is leak that bad some kind of (beg, borrow, steal) Rad pressure tester (pump) should leak to confirm the problem. It is also possible (I guess) that compression gases are leaking, better to find the trouble before curing it.
That aluminum powered seal is the best for blocks, can plug your heater core though.
That aluminum powered seal is the best for blocks, can plug your heater core though.
#3
03-18-2010, 02:58 PM
and your radiator.
Tan colored oily foam is indeed antifreeze mixing with oil. Pour in sealant won't likely seal a crack like that especially not permanently. Like repairing body cancer, "bondoing" over the problem will only delay the inevitable and quite possibly cause more problems than you already have. Bite the bullet and replace the head. Be sure to have the replacement head checked for flatness, magnafluxed for cracks and at least grind the valves and replace the seals.
Drain the oil and replace it and the filter a couple times over a short period of time to clear out any antifreeze, it's not a very good lubricant.
Tan colored oily foam is indeed antifreeze mixing with oil. Pour in sealant won't likely seal a crack like that especially not permanently. Like repairing body cancer, "bondoing" over the problem will only delay the inevitable and quite possibly cause more problems than you already have. Bite the bullet and replace the head. Be sure to have the replacement head checked for flatness, magnafluxed for cracks and at least grind the valves and replace the seals.
Drain the oil and replace it and the filter a couple times over a short period of time to clear out any antifreeze, it's not a very good lubricant.
#4
03-18-2010, 09:39 PM
Post Fiend
I'm not sure I would jump into any type of repair until you are sure of your problem. It sounds like a cracked head but.....
I had a 64.5 Mustang 289 in my 55 and that year was notorious for warping and cracking heads because of bad coolant flow tothe back cylinders. I had one head repaired with pins and it performed really well for 10s of thousands of miles.
Just food for thought if you have problems finding another head.
I had a 64.5 Mustang 289 in my 55 and that year was notorious for warping and cracking heads because of bad coolant flow tothe back cylinders. I had one head repaired with pins and it performed really well for 10s of thousands of miles.
Just food for thought if you have problems finding another head.
#5
03-19-2010, 11:06 AM