1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Discussion

My *%&@#$& Trailing Arms

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  #31  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:45 AM
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Good idea. I might be able to pull it back using my trailer hitch.
 
  #32  
Old 12-09-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by trike1946
Good idea. I might be able to pull it back using my trailer hitch.
It sounds as if the holes are just mis-aligned a bit and that's why I suggested the jack or Port-A-power. Even a come along would work as it might only be a 1/8th of an inch or less off.
 
  #33  
Old 12-09-2010, 04:00 PM
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I used a come along from my trailer hitch. All finished.

Thanks for all the help.
 
  #34  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:09 PM
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what are the torque settings for the lower and upper control arms!!!! i have already set the arms up just need torque them now!!!!
 
  #35  
Old 07-26-2011, 11:54 PM
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Looks like they should be torqued 100-110. The lowers are 110 ft lbs, the uppers are 100 ft lbs. Hope that helps.
 
  #36  
Old 07-27-2011, 12:39 PM
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After reading this, I will have to check my control arms, too.

Update: Mine are in great shape
 
  #37  
Old 09-04-2011, 02:14 PM
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I pulled the left rear wheel and to my surprise found the lower control arm nearly rusted in two. I guess it could have been worst, I could have learned about the arms the hard way.
 

Last edited by myblkexpy; 09-05-2011 at 09:51 AM. Reason: more to the point
  #38  
Old 09-14-2011, 12:15 PM
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Replaced my lower rear control arms today. Purchased new ones on EBay for $125, including shipping, from expy_source. They appear to be similar to the PMT arms, except no grease fitting and $145 cheaper. The new arms are 20 ¾” vs the originals at 20 ¼”. I purchased 5/8 x 3 ½, grade 8 bolts to replace the 16mm x 90mm, 10.9 originals. Including flat washers and nuts from Fastenal for $16. Yes, I know they’re 4 thousandths smaller. But, they’re stronger and readily available. Many of the recommendations and experiences discussed here helped. Used a 4” cut off wheel for the bolt head next to the gas tank. Used a come-along to pull the axle into position. Project took about a couple hours.
 
  #39  
Old 09-14-2011, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by myblkexpy
I purchased 5/8 x 3 ½, grade 8 bolts to replace the 16mm x 90mm, 10.9 originals. Including flat washers and nuts from Fastenal for $16. Yes, I know they’re 4 thousandths smaller. But, they’re stronger and readily available.
FYI - Grade 10.9 is slightly stronger than grade 8.
 
  #40  
Old 09-14-2011, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
FYI - Grade 10.9 is slightly stronger than grade 8.

5/8" grade 8 in fine thread may actually be stronger than 16mm 10.9 in both tension and shear
if i get ambitous later i'll look it up
 
  #41  
Old 03-15-2013, 04:48 PM
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Did a search and found this thread after finding my driver's side trailing arm rotted through. Its great to have directions and pics. I ordered a set on ebay from expysource for $80 w/ free shipping. Ordered them Friday 3/8. They came today 3/15. I got lucky with the axle shifting back. It moved just enough to make up for the slightly longer new trailing arms. So they slid right in. A rare quick and painless job. Thanks all .
 
  #42  
Old 09-12-2013, 01:50 PM
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Gonna replace the lowers only on my '01 with the PMT arms. Anybody buy their recommended PTFE grease? Me, I'd rather avoid having a dedicated grease gun with twenty years worth of product hanging on the shop wall.
 
  #43  
Old 09-12-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BAD RONALD
Anybody buy their recommended PTFE grease?
Nope, I used general grease when I did mine.
 
  #44  
Old 09-12-2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Nope, I used general grease when I did mine.
That's what I wanted to hear.
 
  #45  
Old 10-19-2014, 11:57 PM
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Jack stands

I am replacing my trailing arms, 98 Navigator. I get that I have to engage the suspension and have the axle on jack stands. I also get doing only one side @ a time. My question is do I need to have jacks under the frame? Concerned about the axle moving and the whole thing falling. Thoughts?
 


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