Hold off on the match!!! You're almost there! At least it is "reliably dead". Those are the easiest to troubleshoot... though you may not be feeling that. The WORST are the rarely-occuring intermittent problems that leave ya stranded, but when towed home everything is fine!

You just answered my next question, which was whether you have the TFI module on the side of the distributor, or if you just have a plug hanging out of the distributor and have the ICM on the fender instead. So it's ICM on the fender.

From the 1994 electrical book, here is the circuitry around the ICM and the distributor. I am thinking that 1992 will be the same or similar. Looking at the colors of the wires you have will tell, if they match up to what I posted. If so, you can use it.

Since plug-in replacement of parts hasn't solved the problem, after checking fuses I think its time to check wire continuity, and if voltages are present in Start/Run.

Wire Color Code

GY/O GraY with Orange stripe
PK PinK
Y/BK Yellow with BlacK stripe
R/LG Red with LightGreen stripe
T/Y Tan with Yellow stripe
BK/W BlacK with White stripe
R/LG Red with LightGreen stripe
W/PK White with PinK stripe
O/R Orange with Red stripe

The ICM (Ignition Control Module) on the fender has 6 wires. They are color-coded using the first 6 of the colors listed above, and are in order from one side of the connector to the other.

At the ICM connector there is:

GY/O is PIP, runs to the plug on the distributor, also has a splice somewhere along it that it also runs to pin 56 of the PCM (the computer).
PK is SPOUT, runs to the SPOUT connector jumper plug, from there, same PK color code, runs to pin 36 of PCM.
Y/BK is START, runs to pin 4 of PCM. I assume the PCM puts 12volts on this only when key is in START.
R/LG is POWER, with same color code goes a lot of places: to a fuse where it is getting 12volts through the key switch in START and RUN, to the distributor, to the hot side of the coil, radio noise capacitor near coil, and other places too. But these are the ignition-related places it connects.
T/Y is COIL, runs to the other low-voltage side of the coil. Also has a splice somewhere to W/PK wire which runs to dash, probably to pulse the TACH.
BK/W is GROUND, runs to distributor.

At the distributor connector there is:

GY/O PIP, already covered that above.
O/R IGNITION GROUND, runs to pin 16 of PCM. I think that is a signal ground that works with PIP.
R/LG POWER, already covered that above.

Inline connector – there is a Connector C101 that is inline for some of the wires from the ICM to the distributor and coil. It is over near the driver’s fender somewhere by the air box.

 

Ok, I took care of my problem. I SOLD IT as is. It's now someone elses problem.

 

Oh well, you still have the Eddie Bauer, i think it would have been better changing that wiring harness to start fresh and checking all the grounds. Still, yours was a great solution, works everytime.