No Fuel!
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 31,848
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From: Upstate NY
Thanks again, I will check this tomorrow as it is almost 10 pm for this old dog! I sure do appreciate the help!
If it clicks that means either that relay is bad, the wiring under its relay socket is bad or one of the fuse links is bad.
You can check a fuse link by trying to stretch it. If it stretches it is bad.
I am betting that the wiring under that relay is bad where it attaches to the socket.
You can check a fuse link by trying to stretch it. If it stretches it is bad.
I am betting that the wiring under that relay is bad where it attaches to the socket.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
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Likes: 2,368
From: Upstate NY
Checked out the wires and socket for the EEC power relay. There is basically zero on both of the larger blade connectors. I did find the same 3V on the side with the blue wire and fusible link that connects to the red* wires that feed the injectors etc... However, the other side is suppose to be yellow then a fus link to brown. Mine is dark brown or black with a yellow trace and then it has been soldered onto a red wire. That is definately questionable. Is the power suppose to come from the side with the yellow wire from the battery and be hot at all times?
I see that the predominate red* wire also runs to the computer at pins 37 and 57. I tested for continuity between those pins and the red wire at the relays and had it.
Concerning the smaller wires that power the relay coil, the white-lt blue trace had 12V and the black was zero as it should be.
Please advise!!?!
I see that the predominate red* wire also runs to the computer at pins 37 and 57. I tested for continuity between those pins and the red wire at the relays and had it.
Concerning the smaller wires that power the relay coil, the white-lt blue trace had 12V and the black was zero as it should be.
Please advise!!?!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
The yellow wire should go through a fuse link and then hook to the battery side of the starter solenoid.
You may have an open fuse link near the starter solenoid. You must get that yellow wire hot at all times for the engine to run.
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FTE Legend
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From: Upstate NY
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Seems the corroded relay sockets are more common than thought. U probably have no check engine light with the key on engine off.Napa sells the relay plug harness for around 15 bucks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
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From: Easton,Ks
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FTE Legend
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From: Upstate NY
It is alive! 
I found that the yellow wire was broken inside the insulation near the large round plug that lays on the inner fender behind the air box. I noticed that it appeared swollen about one inch from the plug. I cut it off and it was solid green powder! So, I cut it back to good on both sides of the plug since it was so close to it and put in a piece of wire with butt splice connectors and what do you know, there was now power at the EEC power relay terminal! I plugged the relay back in and the fuel pump relay kicked on and started the pumps, then I turned it to start and it roared to life! Awsome.
I can not begin to think you enough Mr. Subford! I certainly appreciate all the efort you extended toward getting this truck running again! I sure hope I can possibly return the favor some day!
I found that the yellow wire was broken inside the insulation near the large round plug that lays on the inner fender behind the air box. I noticed that it appeared swollen about one inch from the plug. I cut it off and it was solid green powder! So, I cut it back to good on both sides of the plug since it was so close to it and put in a piece of wire with butt splice connectors and what do you know, there was now power at the EEC power relay terminal! I plugged the relay back in and the fuel pump relay kicked on and started the pumps, then I turned it to start and it roared to life! Awsome. I can not begin to think you enough Mr. Subford! I certainly appreciate all the efort you extended toward getting this truck running again! I sure hope I can possibly return the favor some day!
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