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how long you could run on the hiway in 4-lo, hubs unlocked???
I've been caught before in long slow crawls up 3 or 4 miles of grade while towing the trailer (15k) and had the tranny get pretty warm due to insufficient air passing through the coolers.
So, how long at 35mph could I travel up the mountain, towing, in 4-lo before damaging the transfer case?? Or would damage ocurr?
Seems like the higher rpms, although at 30-35 mph, while geared down so much, would allow a longer pull before heating up the tranny due to low airflow.
Might want to consider upgrading your tranny cooler. One from a 6.0 is a good upgrade. I have a derale I got from Clay that I am hoping to install inline with my factory one this weekend providing weather and wife allow the time. I will post pics and results when done.
I don't see a problem with that, but I would unplug the solenoid on the passenger firewall so the front hubs don't lock. As long as you are not turning to many RPM's I don't see a problem. Just remember, you have to stop to put it back in 4 hi. That could be a problem when traffic starts moving at a good clip. Keep an eye on the gauges. lol
Actually, a bigger cooler does cool better ALL the time. While your slow crawling, your engine fan is still drawing air through the front of your truck. Make the surface area of the cooler as big as the 6 liter, or v-10 cooler, and you will see a difference. If you ever compared the difference in size between either of those, versus the origional 7.3 tranny cooler you would understand. If you run in 2low, you raise rpms, also increasing air through the front of the truck, through the cooler. Running in 2low is not a problem. The gear reduction is through a set of planetary gears.
Why not just downshift to the gear you need instead of shifting the t-case in to low range?
Because the "gear you need" is 2nd (auto tranny), but going up that grade at 30-35mph pulling 15K, produces way too many egts for too long a period, and not much air passing through the front.
Ergo, gear down even farther in 2-lo, reduce egts, and mollify the lack of air through the coolers with lower engine temps.
I've done it, 4 low pulling about 14K up cabbage hill aka emigrant pass aka deadman pass on I84 in eastern Oregon at around 30mph with no ill effects.
That hill is nasty....2000 ft in six miles with 2 switchbacks on 6% grade.
EGT's are real low because your not really working the engine with the gear reduction. At those speeds on a hill the right lane is usually clogged with OTR trucks so running out of gear usually isn't a problem and there is almost always a break check at the top so you can stop and put it back in 2HI for the trip down.
If you run in 2low, you raise rpms, also increasing air through the front of the truck, through the cooler. Running in 2low is not a problem.
Not necessarily true, your fan may be turning but it doesn't mean it's drawing air. You can tell when the clutch kicks in because it starts making a big whooshing noise, but that is only when the engine temps get warm enough.
A bigger cooler will help, and in the long run it'll definitely pay off. I have a larger tranny pan along with a 6.0L cooler and pulling heavy loads slowly I still struggle to get it over 150*.
The biggest thing I found to help is a TC lockup switch. The majority of your heat at low temps is from the TC slipping, if you're able to lock it up it'll make a big difference in temps. I've watched my temps go down after I lock it up.
I think there's a select few around here that have towed heavy loads slowly. It's a lot harder than one thinks, exactly because of the point you're bringing up. You don't have the air flow through the front end to keep things cool, so you have to manage other ways to keep things in line.
I will be adding ducting/sealing all the gaps betweeen the front of the truck to the radiator. that way all the air HAS to go through it all. Bigger trans cooler for sure will always help. My 93 explorer, truck trailer and load tipped the scales at 11,200lbs, got used in low range a lot. I would drive it all around in low range, no issues at all with wrecking the transfercase. Throw a temp gauge in the bottom drain plug and see what the temps get to. If they dont go up then no worries, if they get hotter then 220 then id be concerned.
I do it all the time ! In 2low the trans locks up way better because you are running in 3rd or sometime OD and doing the same speed and you would be in 2nd in 2HI, but in 2nd 2HI your trans is slipping a lot more !
Not necessarily true, your fan may be turning but it doesn't mean it's drawing air. You can tell when the clutch kicks in because it starts making a big whooshing noise, but that is only when the engine temps get warm enough.
A bigger cooler will help, and in the long run it'll definitely pay off. I have a larger tranny pan along with a 6.0L cooler and pulling heavy loads slowly I still struggle to get it over 150*.
The biggest thing I found to help is a TC lockup switch. The majority of your heat at low temps is from the TC slipping, if you're able to lock it up it'll make a big difference in temps. I've watched my temps go down after I lock it up.
I think there's a select few around here that have towed heavy loads slowly. It's a lot harder than one thinks, exactly because of the point you're bringing up. You don't have the air flow through the front end to keep things cool, so you have to manage other ways to keep things in line.
Good luck!
Have you ever tried to turn the fan manually while the water pump, vise, etc holds the drive portion fixed? Its pretty tight when its not unlocked. The higher the rpm, the faster the fan turns. The faster the fan turns, the more air through the radiator. There is a point were the air can resist enough to overcome the air needed. Thats why the clutch has a lockup. Maybe Ernesteugene can calculate that.