Actually, I can't see how there would be a problem with the alt, given it is doing everything that it's supposed to...

I can go down the street and buy a used one for $35, which I should have done in the first place, as that would have been cheaper than the $50 I spent to replace stuff that didn't need replacing... I happened to think of it, when you suggested a used one out of the boneyard, and they don't usually stock that much, but they had both the 90 and the 135amp versions...

So, I'll check that fuse - and do that swap (wife needs the truck now though, so it might not be for a week) - I don't feel like it will strand her though, since I know it's putting out 14v, and the batt is fine.... it's just annoying :-)

So, if I unplugged both the plugs to the alt, the light on the dash should still be on? with KOEO? I'm still trying to get this straight as to what wires are what here - I have a larger 3 contact plug, and a smaller single contact plug...

if I pull both, the light is off
if I pull just the smaller one, the light stays on
if I pull just the larger one the light stays on

the light only goes off if I unplug the larger of the 2 plugs.

just wanted to clarify...

I'll pat myself on the back once we get the light out :-) - but yeah I'm trying to troubleshoot this.

Thanks

 

CORRECTION

the ONLY time the light is OFF when KOEO - is when the larger of the two plugs is unplugged... regardless if the other one is plugged in or not.

 

On my 97 (yours should be the same) one of the wires in the larger plug IS wired to the idiot light.

If this was mine i'd grab one of those used alternators and if that does'nt fix this I have no idea what would.

Charging properly with the idiot light on makes no sense to me.

 

apparently, I should be getting 12v all the time on one of those wires, even with the key off, so that is the next thing I'm gonna check - maybe there is no power going to the VR in the first place, and it's smart enough to just work past that, meaning that since there is 12v hot all the time at the main post, and it's grounded - maybe it's just blindly putting out what it should be...

I guess the reason it's there is for an over charging situation? and/or if the draw is too much it works the unit harder to put out more amps?

it really doesn't make much sense to me either, but others have suggested that there is a 15 amp fuse tied to this circuit as you said way back...

so, now I will check if I have 12v at that wire in the plug all the time, and if not, I need to check the fuse - did you say it was in the engine compartment? I got one on the side of the dash too, but I guess that is for inside stuff :-)

BTW - do you know which one I want for the power points? - (used to be know as the ciggy lighter plugs) mine has 2 - on at the ciggy tray, and one on the pass side of the console - neither work... I bet that the fuse there...

Thanks for your help.

 

Yeah that key on or off voltage is the excitor voltage from that fuse I mentioned. Without that voltage charging cant begin.

Your results might vary-but i doubt it- on my 97 that voltage is on the yellow/white stripe wire.

BTW, what you really should have for this is the 1996 Explorer EVTM (electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual) Last I looked at helminc.com they were on sale for 14 bucks.
For fixing this & your next electrical problem it's worth 10 times that price.

 

Hi 87,

yeah, I actually was looking in my Chiltons book just right now, and they have some of the schematics but not in detail with the Alt - they did show one with the idiot light, ign switch and the battery... but nothing with the alt - strange...

and this wire is in that 3 contact plug that goes into the Voltage Reg? - NOT the one that is hot all the time, at the main bolt (red) by itself (that one is hot all the time too, of course)

so, you are expecting me to see voltage there, since I'm getting 14v+ as I said at the battery at idle...

Also, totally unrelated - how can I cure the power steering whine once and for all!?

Thanks

 

update

light seemed to go out after I pulled the fuse and then reseated it - the fuse was fine, but now wife says light has not come back on KOER, so that is good...

just wondering why still - could it just have been a poor contact there somewhere, and that re-surge of power caused it to make again? - I'm not complaining, just trying to learn about this :-)

but, at least its off (for now) :-)

 

Yeah it looks like the voltage spike from reinstalling the fuse sealed up an open somewhere. That fuse has voltage at all times even with the key off.

Same thing happened with my roof top TV antennas a few months back.

When the TV quit & I had no signal from either of the antennas I looked at the common point for both antennas.

I pulled the coax off of the pre amp & checked for voltage from the amp on the coax. It was 20 volts DC as it should be.

Screwed the coax back down & now the TV worked.

Connecting the volt meter caused a voltage spike that sealed up an open in the coax. Replaced the cable & problem solved.

When/if your light comes back on you'll need to find the flaky connection.

 

yeah, I hope it never does :-) - maybe it was a dirty contact on the fuse? unlikely I know, but at least it's been off ever since...

I'm more sad today, since I found out this Crossover pipe for my wifes car is a dealer only part, and will be $380!! - for a 12 inch piece of special flex pipe! - dealerships are amazing what they get away with, and they know you can't get it anywhere else!

Now, all I have to do/learn on the Exp is the brakes... thanks for keeping with me all this time!

Cheers