No spark
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
If you have points.
Take a volt meter or test light and see (with the key on,) if you have voltage at the input wire on the coil. (the one coming from the ignition switch) If you do, turn off the key and remove the distributor cap and rotor. Turn on key and take a insulated screwdriver and open and close the points and see if you have a spark at the points. If so, your coil is likely good. If no voltage at the input wire, run a wire from your battery positive terminal to the input side of the coil and then check the points. You should have fire at this point, but if not the coil is likely bad or the small wire running from the coil to the distributor is bad or grounded.
That should give you a few things to get started checking. It's a back to basic starting place. Just take it step by step.
Take a volt meter or test light and see (with the key on,) if you have voltage at the input wire on the coil. (the one coming from the ignition switch) If you do, turn off the key and remove the distributor cap and rotor. Turn on key and take a insulated screwdriver and open and close the points and see if you have a spark at the points. If so, your coil is likely good. If no voltage at the input wire, run a wire from your battery positive terminal to the input side of the coil and then check the points. You should have fire at this point, but if not the coil is likely bad or the small wire running from the coil to the distributor is bad or grounded.
That should give you a few things to get started checking. It's a back to basic starting place. Just take it step by step.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
I was able to test the input wire on the coil and with the key on my tester lights up with the key off nothing so thats good, next test is to see if I have any spark at from the main coil wire...
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Ok I took the coil wire and stuck next to the metal rod and turned the key and got no spark from it. I do have power from the ignition to the coil so I will get another new coil, points, condinsor andcap just to be on the safe side and see what happens then...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 51
From: SW Missouri
Might I suggest before you spend any money and start doing the shotgun approach to fixing you go back and see if the points have fire. If you take a screwdriver and bridge the points and open and close them with the key on they should spark. If they do spark there is no reason to replace them right now. If the issue is a grounded wire inside the distributor and you replace everything you still will have no spark and will have installed a bunch of new parts that could be defective.
Just my opinion.
Larry
Just my opinion.
Larry
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Ok I turned on key and took a screwdriver and opened and closed the points to see if I have a spark at the points, at first I did not so I pulled the points out cleaned them up and retried it then I had spark at the points but I still dont have spark from the coil even though its brand new, is there anyway to test the coil to see if its any good?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Ok second new coil and still no spark. Im getting spark when I open the points, I also noticed that when I opened the points I had spark from the main coil wire that goes to the cap so now the question is could the points need adjusting and if so how would I go about that. Ive tried looking online to see how to adjust the oints but all I get is chevy stuff, nothing about fords or the 200 inline 6.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
lookin at those pics it looks like your points are open when they are not on the top of the lobe they should be closed on the flat then open when on the lobe
not sure of gap though
but i am pretty sure a tight gap is hotter than a wide one
good luck
not sure of gap though
but i am pretty sure a tight gap is hotter than a wide one
good luck
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 51
From: SW Missouri
your points are not closing so no fire. You need to bump the starter, or turn the fan to move the engine until the rubbing block on the points is on one of the lobs of the distributor. The block needs to be on the high part of the cam lob.Once you get that done loosen slightly the hold down screw and then turn the adjusting screw to close the points. You want to adjust the points to maybe .015 or so. I don't have the exact specs. here but that will be close enough to start and run. When you get them adjusted tighten down the hold down screw and your good to go.
Good luck and good job on tracking down the trouble.
Larry
Good luck and good job on tracking down the trouble.
Larry
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Thanks Larry, I started to mess with it some today but the baby kinda kept me busy and my helper fell asleep so my plan is to try again tomorrow and see what we can get done. I just want to hear her run, ok and maybe take her around the block once or twice...lol
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Ok I must be some sort of a retard or something, I put new points and condensor in it. I gapped it (.20) and still no spark. I have power going to the coil and yesturday I had some spark when i manually opened the points, now i have nothing. What am i missing, there has to be something? 
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 128
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
You set the points on the high part of the lobe. Right? Did you look at the wire underneath the distributor plate to make sure no short, although it looks like the new style? Do you still have power at the points terminal (test light) even when no spark between points with ign turned on? By-pass the ign switch by running a hot wire from battery to plus side of the coil? This is 12v, right? There should also be a ballast resitor on the fire wall, check if burnt out? Buy a shop manual?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Yes i set them on the high point of the lobe. Here is a pic of the ignition wire #1 where it comes out of the fire wall, it goes to a white thing on the firewall #2 then runs down to the coil #3.
I have power at the coil when the key is on. The only ground wire i found so far is in this next pic marked #4
It seems nice and tight, is there something else i could be missing?
I have power at the coil when the key is on. The only ground wire i found so far is in this next pic marked #4
It seems nice and tight, is there something else i could be missing?