This should get some good discussion...
I have a gooseneck 2 horse trailer. It did not come with safety chains. I would like to put some on. Somebody told me to attach the chains to the trailer with small (like 1/4 inch) bolts so that if the trailer came loose on the road it would not flip the truck, but if it came loose, say, on the driveway, no problem. So here is my question...are your tow chains for GN trailers secured with a "weak link" or are they attached securely.

 

anytime you put safety chains on a trailer or a wagon your towing down the road, they should not be the weak link. the entire purpose of them is to prevent your trailer from damaging other vehicles or injuring other motorists should your trailer happen to come unhitched for some reason. therefore, you'll probably end up getting hit with your own trailer if this ever did happen, but they prevent the trailer from wandering into another lane or off the road and striking something or someone else which would probably be a much greater tragedy than the trailer running into the back of your truck. in all the wagons and trailers i have ever pulled or been sittin in the truck while pulling, we've never had to worry about the safety chains being used thankfully. i once had a 15 cubic foot dump cart loaded with dirt break away from the tractor i was driving on a golf course renovation project. that was very scary. pin sheared, popped the hydraulic hose right out and took off backwards down hill on a cart path. i just sat in amazement, since there were golfers at the bottom of the hill watching all this. funny now, but could have been very dangerous situation. after that happened we put a 3/8s grade 70 chain on it so that would never happen again. thats my 2 cents!

 

I put the heaviest chains on that I can. Look for high test chain. I think that it is mark "transport" grade, or something like that. I just got a 20', 5/16" tow chain at Home Depot (Lowes has them too). Gold color plated. Rated at 4700 lbs. working load. The hook is rated for 4700 lbs. too. $29.95.

24" bolt cutter wouldn't touch it. Had to cut it to length with my air cut off saw.

My new Pace American trailer came with 1/4" high test chain. Gross trailer weight is 10,000 lbs. Chains were too short, so I lengthened the chain and upgraded too.

Regular 5/16" chain (Grade 30) is rated for around 1500 lbs. Chain is not chain. There is a difference in quality/load.

 

Glad to see the positive response for safety chians. They are required. I agree 100%. My trailer dropped off the hitch once. I was going up hill , hit a bad bump as I slowed to 25 mph, and off came the trailer. Safety chains and brake away saved the trailer and who knows what else. I did not have it coupled right. That was almost 40 years ago. For the last 40 years after I hook up, then I jack the trailer up and make sure the coupler is set right and locked. You should try it, it might save you or me (accident) a lot of problems. Richard

 

You can get REAL transport chain cut & built to length with your choice (or combination) of hooks from this place:
http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?...33629-58825846

 

The chain at Home Depot and Lowe is REAL transport chain. Grade 70 steel, 5/16". WWL 4700 lbs. with 4700 lbs. hooks on both ends. 20' is $29.95.

My trailer came from the Pace factory with 1/4" Grade 70 chain, so I figure 5/16" is a step up and probably more than I need. I guess that I won't really find that out until I use it.

Awdirect does have some really nice stuff. At 1-1.5 lbs. per foot, shipping is going to get expensive pretty quickly.

 

Thanks for the replies. You pretty much said what I was thinking, do it right or not at all. Guess I'll be shopping for chain soon. And you are right, all chain is not the same.

 

I think the potential 'weak link' could be the snaps on the ends of the chains that connect to the hitch. Every time I hook them up, I wonder if they are as strong as the chain. They just don't look as stout.

Scott

 

what do you have a caribeaner setup?

i wouldnt trust anything other than some hooks that are as strong as the chain.....

of course just because something doesn't look strong doesn't necessarily mean its not strong. all depends on the physical properties of the material its made out of, to be technical about it.

also id like to point out that just hooking up your chains right is important to those who arn't familiar with doing it. make sure you are hooking on to your reciever hitch or part of the frame. ive seen guys that had their chains hooked to the flat part of the bumper before and make sure you have them secured so they don't come loose and start dragging down the road. also, make sure there's enough slack to cut sharp corners

 

Yes, you have to get the correctly rated hooks too. And your attachment to the trailer needs to be solid as well.

Home Depot sells chain hooks. Most are made from mild steel and only rated for a few hundred pounds. Those hooks will snap right off if you put any load on them.

The best hooks, etc. can usually be found at tractor supply stores, or on-line like the link above.

 

You ain't kiddin'. I was using a borrowed log splitter (big, heavy homemade one) one time that as luck would have it blew a tire, shook itself off of the hitch, and straightened the hooks right out. Off into the ditch it went. I knew it didn't look good when I hooked it up, but it wasn't mine to fix and I was only going 3 miles on gravel. One mile was enough. Moral of the story, doesn't matter how short the trip, unsafe is unsafe. I was just lucky there is never any traffic on the road I was on.

 

I've got $8000 in my trailer. $50 for good chains/hooks is a no-brainer.

 

Are you guys talking about the hooks that double back and grapple onto one of the links in the chain? I agree those would be as strong as the chain. The hooks that came with my trailer are stamped steel. After hearing Buckarchers's close call I think I need to make a trip to the welding shop.

So how many of you guys cross the chains under the hitch? I do that so if it comes uncoupled the tongue won't hit the road.

 

Chains are required by law to be crossed in Texas and many other states.

 

horsepuller, yes thats what im talking about. and if they can't double back then hopefully the hook opening is wide enough to just hook on the reciever. and yes i also cross the chains its a good thing to do i think.

and another thing to add... if your pulling a wagon or trailer and it doesn't have tow chains welded on it, you can always take a logging chain and wrap it around the tongue, then twist the ends of the chain till you get it the right length. thats how we always do it pulling hay and corn wagons.